Same here. Mine has been out for 82,000 miles. Zero rattles. In fact, after exiting crazy, bone-chattering trails, my 12 year old 200 goes right back to zero rattles. Pretty amazing.
After removing 3rd row...what are solutions to cover the arch holes?
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Same here. Mine has been out for 82,000 miles. Zero rattles. In fact, after exiting crazy, bone-chattering trails, my 12 year old 200 goes right back to zero rattles. Pretty amazing.
Kydex and a form could be really quick and cheap as well.
Give me your wish list guys!
My LC came with plastic inserts for the 3rd row seat holes in the floor. They just pop in. I would expect they are a standard part that could be ordered,
You clearly do not have teenager athletes. <Stinky emoji>
Are you referring to the holes with the anchors for the center of the third row?
We are talking about the holes left behind from the wheel-well side foot that is removed along with the third row.
Understood about the wheel well trim issues. But there were also questions around the holes in the load floor, which I was referring to.
This is the load floor. Off to the sides near the wheel wells. When you remove the third row the legs that support them come out and leave large holes in the carpet and padding.
If there are covers for those holes it would be welcome news to many people on this board.
We're talking about the holes in the wheel well arches, not the holes in the floor.
Nope! Single and longtime hobbyist detailer. My interiors stay PERFECT.
Back to the original topic, I may keep my eyes out for creative solutions (I like the idea of padding and some type of carpet as mentioned above) but I'm not worried too much about covering up the holes. It wouldn't look even close to OEM anyway, so I just figure might as well not bother. If someone were handy enough and wanted to put in the effort into creating a custom-molded plastic piece that mounts to the OEM trim with clips or something that seems semi-OEM, I'd be in for that at any reasonable cost in a heartbeat. Not holding my breath, though...
And to veer back off topic, I don't think my interior rattle has anything to do with the third row seat removal. It's a very minor hard plastic rattle-vibration type noise that can only be noticed at low speeds (before road noise covers it up) and I'm pretty sure that it's coming from the interior of the tailgate. It sounds like that hard plastic piece that bridges the tailgate and cargo area floor just resonates a bit. Has anyone else noticed this? I can't imagine that if you drive at low speed (under 15 mph) with radio off, everyone's cargo area is totally silent. The pieces back there just seem like they would all make a little noise. I've tried a bunch of other things in the cargo area just trying to narrow down the source and it hasn't done a thing. I took the tool kit out today just as an experiment and that made no difference. Ugh.
And to veer back off topic, I don't think my interior rattle has anything to do with the third row seat removal. It's a very minor hard plastic rattle-vibration type noise that can only be noticed at low speeds (before road noise covers it up) and I'm pretty sure that it's coming from the interior of the tailgate. It sounds like that hard plastic piece that bridges the tailgate and cargo area floor just resonates a bit. Has anyone else noticed this? I can't imagine that if you drive at low speed (under 15 mph) with radio off, everyone's cargo area is totally silent. The pieces back there just seem like they would all make a little noise. I've tried a bunch of other things in the cargo area just trying to narrow down the source and it hasn't done a thing. I took the tool kit out today just as an experiment and that made no difference. Ugh.
Check that your seatbelt buckle isn't vibrating against the plastic trim.
Thanks. Oh, I've done all that. All buckles are in their storage slots. I've also tried taking them out of those slots. I've also wedged MF towel behind where the passenger side third row seat belt meets the plastic trim panel just to make sure that wasn't source of the noise. It wasn't. Also temporarily removed the little plastic piece around the end of the belt because it seemed rattle-prone. No difference.
I'm 99% sure it's that hard plastic on the tailgate lightly rattling. Just can't figure out how to fix it.
It's very easy to remove, if you want to just confirm that's the problem. Pops right off.
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Thanks. I was just out there looking at it and started to tug upward on it but didn’t want to pull too hard. I’ve removed plenty of trim from vehicles before, though, and have little fear once I know how to do it (and I do have trim tools if necessary). Do you just pull upward on the lower piece (the piece that is attached inside the cargo area)? I assume it would all come off as one piece because removing that upper/bridge portion only would require removing the springs (and reloading later), and that doesn’t sound fun or look easy.
I did just try one more fix that I’m hoping will put this issue to bed, although the last few weeks of experimenting have taught me to keep my hopes low. I noticed that the carpeted tailgate trim pieces (tool box cover especially, which is passenger side to me) rattled slightly when I bumped them with my fist with the tailgate up. I ran strips of foam insulation along the outside, inside and top edges of the plastic underneath, reinstalled the covers, and the rattles were gone. Fingers crossed that that’s it. If not, I’m close to giving up. I hate rattles but as long as I can’t hear them most of the time, as is the case here, they’re really not worth fretting over. I’ve had much, much worse in other vehicles.
I bought this cargo mat from Toyota dealer. it is meant for LCs that don’t have third row seats. Fit perfectly for LX570 with third row seats removed.
Thanks. But again, we are talking about the wheel arch holes, not the floor holes.
I have the Heritage Edition cargo mat.
You may be, but the conversation expanded to include those holes as well.
I made sure to put all the original bolts back in place. Like others, I installed a tie-down loop using the original bolt on one side and I use it to secure my ghetto-blaster subwoofer.
For the gaps on the wheel hump, I used some rubber mat that matches the cargo mat and made little covers. The covers tuck under the panel and secure with the original bolt.
Instead of using rubber, EVA foam could be used. Maybe this weekend I'll make a couple covers as proof of concept. EVA foam can be painted to match your interior if black isn't your style.
For the gaps on the wheel hump, I used some rubber mat that matches the cargo mat and made little covers. The covers tuck under the panel and secure with the original bolt.
Instead of using rubber, EVA foam could be used. Maybe this weekend I'll make a couple covers as proof of concept. EVA foam can be painted to match your interior if black isn't your style.
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