Affordable regear to 4.30

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My locker been acting up lately. Tore down the actuator and it was clean inside, not even a speck of rust. Put it back together and it still would not work. Bought a replica actuator on eBay for less than $96 and it would not work.

Check continuity on all wires and everything check out OK. Checked the 10 pin elocker swich I got from low range off road and found one of the legs does not work anynore. This switch always feels cheap and the button always fall off. At $33 plus $20 shipping it just sounds wrong to me.

Found a 10 pin universal DPDT Carling swich from eBay for $13.89. No locker symbol on it but not a concern for me. It is made and shipped from China. But the switch itself are much better quality than the one I got from Low Range Off road. Swap the switch and everything start working again.
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My locker been acting up lately. Tore down the actuator and it was clean inside, not even a speck of rust. Put it back together and it still would not work. Bought a replica actuator on eBay for less than $96 and it would not work.

Check continuity on all wires and everything check out OK. Checked the 10 pin elocker swich I got from low range off road and found one of the legs does not work anynore. This switch always feels cheap and the button always fall off. At $33 plus $20 shipping it just sounds wrong to me.

Found a 10 pin universal DPDT Carling swich from eBay for $13.89. No locker symbol on it but not a concern for me. It is made and shipped from China. But the switch itself are much better quality than the one I got from Low Range Off road. Swap the switch and everything start working again.View attachment 3759256View attachment 3759257
Do you have any pictures of the back of the Low Range Offroad switch and/or pictures of the wiring harness for the back?

Just wondering how much rewiring and/or difficult to swap out the Low Range switch. I don’t like mine either. It works differently than all my other switches.

I really want to install the 80-series round locker dial switch, but no idea how to do that.

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The dial switch is a maintained switch. It need a relay to work or modified OEM locker ECU.

The 10 pin elocker swich are basically a DPDT switch. The extra 4 pins are for backlight and locked indicator light. Each pin must be connected individually. The wiring diagram 2 reply above is how I wire mine.

Dask ilussion wiring / Will Oberdick makes wiring harness to use OEM switch or 10 pin switch.

 
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Starting to collect the parts to do this swap.

Have a 4th gen 4runner axle housing from a coworker going to pre convert to accept an elocker, and maybe weld on some rear axle armor.

Going to swap the driveshaft flange to a 60x60, looking up the gx and 3rd gen runner take the same u joint. Also going to see if I can pickup a slip yoke for a 3rd gen to see if it works too.

I have 32s, but also live at altitude so think the undergearing shouldn’t be too bad.
 
Starting to collect the parts to do this swap.

Have a 4th gen 4runner axle housing from a coworker going to pre convert to accept an elocker, and maybe weld on some rear axle armor.

Going to swap the driveshaft flange to a 60x60, looking up the gx and 3rd gen runner take the same u joint. Also going to see if I can pickup a slip yoke for a 3rd gen to see if it works too.

I have 32s, but also live at altitude so think the undergearing shouldn’t be too bad.

Maybe you are aiming at more than I am thinking about but you don’t need to do anything other than swap the flange and bolt up your GX driveshaft.
 
3rd gen 4runner have 60X60 driveshaft flange.
2003+ use 66X66 driveshaft flange.

Mix and match driveshaft might be possible but I choose to change driveshaft flange and replace the crush sleeve with solid spacer.

Most of this would have loose preload and it's a good idea to replace the crush sleeve with solid spacer anyway.
 
3rd gen 4runner have 60X60 driveshaft flange.
2003+ use 66X66 driveshaft flange.

Mix and match driveshaft might be possible but I choose to change driveshaft flange and replace the crush sleeve with solid spacer.

Most of this would have loose preload and it's a good idea to replace the crush sleeve with solid spacer anyway.

Ah. I see where he is going.

I mean if you really want to go that way I have a 3rd gen driveshaft in the garage if you are interested. But, I wouldn’t do that. Follow jstawgn’s advice here.
 
Do all of these lockers require drilling flange?
If you use 2005+ tacoma, they already have 66x66 driveshaft flange. I chose older version to get lower gearing.

The axle housing still need to be notched, two holes drilled and tapped to work.
 
if you want 4.30 gears, then you will need to swap the flange. I don’t think you can drill the 60x60 out to 66x66.
 
So to get lower gearing either use the 8.2 or I can source ARB for the whole thing?
You can either way but 8.2 would be recommended. ARB in 8.0 carrier are still weak. The problem is the carrier itself and not the diff. A few people that upgrade OEM 8.0 still end up blowing them up.
 
Update, have a housing, new flange, new seal and nut.

4.30 elocker is coming in the mail, and have a local axle shop that will swap flanges and check / set preload for $50.
 
Update, have a housing, new flange, new seal and nut.

4.30 elocker is coming in the mail, and have a local axle shop that will swap flanges and check / set preload for $50.
Nice work.
 
Nice work.
Thanks!

After the shop checks it out gets the flange swapped I’ll pick up a 4.30 front diff, have a couple local ish to call about or order one in again. Then I’ll swap in the cv bearing on the front diff to one like the gx has stock.

The diff I have coming luckily has a pigtail off of it so I can wire the elocker with a relay and my auxbeam controller

Guessing I’m going to be around $1100 for the 4.30 swap.
 
Thanks!

After the shop checks it out gets the flange swapped I’ll pick up a 4.30 front diff, have a couple local ish to call about or order one in again. Then I’ll swap in the cv bearing on the front diff to one like the gx has stock.

The diff I have coming luckily has a pigtail off of it so I can wire the elocker with a relay and my auxbeam controller

Guessing I’m going to be around $1100 for the 4.30 swap.

Sounds like a good plan. I used an 80 switch with an standard e-locker ecu, but there are a lot ways to skin the cat that is the wiring.
 
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Diff arrived today, feels good by hand, spin counted to make sure 4.30. Bench tested the motor off the diff and in the diff.

Should be able to drop off tomorrow to the gear/axle place.
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Looking closer between 8.0 elocker and 8.2 elocker shows minimal difference.
1. 12 bolt ring gear on 8.2 VS 10 bolt ring gear on 8.0 ring gear.
2. M10 stud on 8.2 vs M8 stud on 8.0 housing
3. 29 spline post 2002 vs 27 spline pinion on pre 2002 8.0

The upgrade to 8.2 elocker does not seem to gain substantial strength over 8.0 elocker.
If you plan to upgrade, non locking 8.2 would give much more substantial strength. BN21 elocker from 4th gen Tacoma or LC 250 might be a cheaper option then harrop. Haven't looked into compatibility yet.

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What are the diffs going for these days? May have a few on the parts shelf to unload at some point.
I seen from $150 for a rust bucket to asking close to a $1k. To be honest i would only pay up to $500 with not much rush and known working actuator.
You can get non OEM replacement actuator. I Paid $90 for it. Seems to work OK but the small pinion gear split after a few uses. I just swap the OEM gear to it and been working OK. AISIN branded one cost about $300-400.
 

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