Advice on how to access top two transmission/engine bolts (1 Viewer)

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CaptainNemo

CaptainNemo

Joined
Feb 28, 2018
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Down to the last two top transmission/engine bolts on my 1FZ80 I6 (1996 Lexus LX450). From firewall position, I can catch a glimpse of one on passenger side but cannot see the one on DS. Do I need to remove engine mounts assembly (bolts, insulator cover, rubber mounts, and main bracket) to lower engine a bit to gain access? Seems I read this generically on engine removal feeds. Seems I would need to remove it all because engine might not lifts over the mount studs. Any thoughts?

IMG_3414.jpg
 
CaptainNemo said:
Thanks for your encouragement. Did you need to removal all engine mount components?
Click to expand...
removed support for transmission and just loosened bolts for engine, I was just removing the transmission not the engine so I needed to be careful of the fan and radiator.
 
When I worked in a shop we used a bunch of extensions on a big breaker bar with an impact wobble socket and loosened them from the back by the transfer case. Once they were broken loose we zipped them off with an inpact.
 
KWalkerM said:
When I worked in a shop we used a bunch of extensions on a big breaker bar with an impact wobble socket and loosened them from the back by the transfer case. Once they were broken loose we zipped them off with an inpact.
Click to expand...
For clarity, only trying to remove the engine for rebuild. I have the tools (extensions, swivals, breaker bar) just have no visibility to the last bolt location on drivers side. Looking for some secret recipe.
 
CaptainNemo said:
For clarity, only trying to remove the engine for rebuild. I have the tools (extensions, swivals, breaker bar) just have no visibility to the last bolt location on drivers side. Looking for some secret recipe.
Click to expand...
Sorry I wasn't clear. We ran like 4 feet of 1/2 inch extensions from the bell housing bolts all the way back to a breaker bar past the transfer case. You should be able to see the bell housing bolts from underneath by looking towards the motor along the top of the transmission and T case by looking from where the rear driveshaft would be.
 
The only way that I am aware of to remove those bolts is to remove the driveshafts, shift linkages and tranny mount and tip the entire assembly. The "by the FSM" way to remove the engine to to pull the tranny with it. Realistically this is the only way to my knowledge to do it. If you have the tranny disconnected from everything and somehow floating in midair awaiting the return of the engine... it is simpler to pull it all.

Mark...
 
My God... you triggered flashbacks. I think these two bolts are the worst time I have had with this thing. I've tried to block it from my memory, but I THINK I was able to get to one of them from the shifter opening (with the shifter removed) and the other from underneath. Both with lots of extensions. If I had to do it again I would pull them together. BTW, when you are ready to pull the engine, you know the top of the radiator support unbolts to give you more room, right ? Wish I had realized that a little sooner...

Good luck !

Jason
 
Pull it all. It's easier than trying to leave the transmission in place
 
When I worked in a shop I did what others are saying. Remove the motor mounts lower engine down some , support tranny lower cross member down some. Then with bunch extensions and wobble socket break it loose and remove . Bolt tranny cross member back up , lift engine out. I also use to remove exhaust manifolds before pulling engine out also.
 
Don't forget the torque convert bolts on the flex plate before you pull the engine, and we did pull the exhaust manifolds and the engine mounts believe we had a ratchet strap or two on under the front of the trans to support it after the the bolts were pulled.
 
CaptainNemo said:
For clarity, only trying to remove the engine for rebuild. I have the tools (extensions, swivals, breaker bar) just have no visibility to the last bolt location on drivers side. Looking for some secret recipe.
Click to expand...

There are a couple threads discussing this but most the recipes are buried in folks “in the moment“ post in rebuild threads. Most the points have been hit on here already though. Loosen motor mounts lower transmission using longer bolts in the crossmember to keep it secure. But honestly I didn’t think it was that bad leaving trans in place and going at it with the extension and wobbles that you mentioned. 24 extension, wobble, 6-10 inch extension, socket go at it from the back of T case looking forward and you can actually reach those two bolts with little drama.

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Last edited:
I use this. 36”, 1/2 female, 3/8 male impact extension with a swivel socket.

710754F4-40C8-4000-BE25-36A15568D38E.jpeg
 
Mine is Cornwell, but they probably are on any tool truck. I think I've seen similar at Northern or Harbor Freight.
 
They do have long extensions at HF, but I will say the last ones I bought are more, um, old school Harbor Freight crap than a lot of the other tools. Don't know about the new "high end" stuff, these were Pittsburgh I think. Poor fit, came apart, etc.

Jason
 
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