mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Sounds like a good option
Additional Oil Pressure Location for 1HZ/1HD-T?
- Thread starter DanS HJ-45
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DamoPeru
SILVER Star
yeah i measured it and with an elbow on the end it was going to come up short just before the starter cable, but yeah far from ideal. interesting about the brass, hadn't thought of that, might have to curb my use of it in the by-pass install, the kit has all brass fittings
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I think in most cases, brass is ok. But with a long adapter, and a heavy sensor and oil hose hanging of the end, and vibrations it's too much weight.
Be careful with BSP, and NPT, the two have slightly different threads, they'll screw together, but might not seal.
BSP is usually used for air and gas, NPT is usually used for oil pressure
Be careful with BSP, and NPT, the two have slightly different threads, they'll screw together, but might not seal.
BSP is usually used for air and gas, NPT is usually used for oil pressure
DamoPeru
SILVER Star
Now with the filter sandwich all my after market NPT connections will go there and the factory BSPT stuff will be untampered.
DamoPeru
SILVER Star
this would appear to be the best solution i reckon
Never thought of that. Pictures please when you receive it and install it.
I did the dreaded octopus but will be addressing it this summer. No issues yet. Plan is to have a hose from the block and remote mount it to the firewall with a manifold of fittings.
I did the dreaded octopus but will be addressing it this summer. No issues yet. Plan is to have a hose from the block and remote mount it to the firewall with a manifold of fittings.
I recall reading somewhere that the filter sandwich has been tried a couple times on 1HDTs and was not able to give an accurate reading for some reason, they ended up going back to Teeing the original pressure sender location....
Edit: Maybe I am spreading rumors, because I can't find the thread now. I never did understand why it would have an inaccurate reading, but I swear I saw it somewhere. Hope it works out!
Edit: Maybe I am spreading rumors, because I can't find the thread now. I never did understand why it would have an inaccurate reading, but I swear I saw it somewhere. Hope it works out!
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DamoPeru
SILVER Star
my adapter arrived. first of all, the inexperienced ebay seller had gone overseas and appeared dead (thankfully ended in a refund last night), so if anyone wants one i suggest you contact engine australia directly... it was cheaper that way anyway including shipping directly to my door in Peru via DHL. PM me if you want details.
It is perfect 'as is' for anyone installing a cooler (pretty sure it's designed specifically for a cooler), possibly good for a turbo with large oil lines (I'm not sure if there would be an issue with feeding the turbo pre filter), but for my purpose of adding two sensors (pressure/temp) and a by-pass filter feed, I've now realised it needs some modification.
its designed to force flow through a high flow cooler before reaching the filter. In my case the by-pass filter would be too restrictive to use in-line with the feed/return ports, and in any case the by-pass filter is designed to be returned to the sump, as well as it being illogical to create an in-line filter setup first into a 2 micron filter and then onto a larger micron standard filter.
So i have to do some machining before i can feel the love of this adapter. I could either drill up from the bottom or down from the top to bypass the feed/return ports and unite the chambers. In my wisdom (a guess) I have concluded that extending the top section is probably in my best interests... I can't see any reason to only machine from the bottom but I'm all ears if anyone has any ideas.
top: this chamber receives oil from the large oil return port
bottom, you can see where all 4 ports are and how oil is forced out the large oil feed port
for my application I will drill a hole in the top to join both chambers, feed my by-pass with the feed port and plug the return port.
It is perfect 'as is' for anyone installing a cooler (pretty sure it's designed specifically for a cooler), possibly good for a turbo with large oil lines (I'm not sure if there would be an issue with feeding the turbo pre filter), but for my purpose of adding two sensors (pressure/temp) and a by-pass filter feed, I've now realised it needs some modification.
its designed to force flow through a high flow cooler before reaching the filter. In my case the by-pass filter would be too restrictive to use in-line with the feed/return ports, and in any case the by-pass filter is designed to be returned to the sump, as well as it being illogical to create an in-line filter setup first into a 2 micron filter and then onto a larger micron standard filter.
So i have to do some machining before i can feel the love of this adapter. I could either drill up from the bottom or down from the top to bypass the feed/return ports and unite the chambers. In my wisdom (a guess) I have concluded that extending the top section is probably in my best interests... I can't see any reason to only machine from the bottom but I'm all ears if anyone has any ideas.
top: this chamber receives oil from the large oil return port
bottom, you can see where all 4 ports are and how oil is forced out the large oil feed port
for my application I will drill a hole in the top to join both chambers, feed my by-pass with the feed port and plug the return port.
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DamoPeru
SILVER Star
i should have added this... and in doing so I just realized that yes it is indeed designed for an oil cooler 
serenity
SILVER Star
For extra ports I machined up a steel block about 20x40x100mm, drilled the length of it and then cross drilled it. I tapped 3 of the holes as NPT, one inlet, one aftermarket pressure, one turbo supply and 1 BSPT for the stock sensor.
It was very simple, to make and could be done with any chunk of metal, I only machined it because I was bored at work.
It was very simple, to make and could be done with any chunk of metal, I only machined it because I was bored at work.
i just happened to be working this out for my own 1HZ-T build the other day,
in the first photo, there's a protrusion that only appears on post 1998 motors in case yours doesn't look like that
if you want to get rid of those water hoses doing a lap around the motor as well, i recommend you replace the cab heater pipe and water outlet with the 1HD-T versions, and add the 1HD-T turbo water pipe. if your running a CT26 you can use the 1HD-T water and oil pipes from the turbo for a perfect fit. i have all the part numbers if you like.
Hello,
Resurrecting this thread, I am doing the same thing, fitting a 1HZ with turbo and would like to drill the block to match stock 1HDT config. I am having trouble figuring out the barb fitting that will be threaded into the block for the oil return. I have the part that bolts to the turbo and it appears to have a nozzle sized for a 7/8 hose. Can someone help with a part number for that fitting. I could just go the npt route but would like to stick to the stock one used.
Thanks
DamoPeru
SILVER Star
this should be what you're after, check it yourself though, there were a couple of versions of the fitting you mention, the banjo and gaskets fitted both versions i had, but you never know if yours is different unless you have the part number
15407A BOLT, UNION(FOR TURBO OIL INLET PIPE)
90401-12097 1 $4.31
15407B GASKET(FOR TURBO OIL INLET PIPE)
90430-12221 2 $1.42
DamoPeru
SILVER Star
oh, sorry, we had only been discussing the supply line to date... I can't help you with that, as it was simple to keep using my existing drain in the sump, so i didn't bother exploring that boss, also is a massive hole you need, and i have no idea what is behind there. if your motor is out i guess you could work it out.
someone might chime in who has a HDJ80, but i suspect that wasn't a threaded barb from factory due to the size and lack of pressure, but probably a pressed one like the 5/8" heater hose fittings on the 1HZ.
someone might chime in who has a HDJ80, but i suspect that wasn't a threaded barb from factory due to the size and lack of pressure, but probably a pressed one like the 5/8" heater hose fittings on the 1HZ.
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
The factory oil return hose is 22mm.
I used a threaded spigot with a back nut and installed it in the oil pan on my HZJ105. I found one in 22mm, most are smaller.
I contemplated drilling for an OEM spigot, but decided it wasn't worth the effort, or the risk.
The oil pan has to come off for either option.
Two things that put me off trying to go OEM, is the risk of having drill swarf floating around in the oil (if you're doing a rebuild, no issue), and if you balls up drilling into the cast crank cradle and end up with a leak, it's gonna be a pain to fix.
I used a threaded spigot with a back nut and installed it in the oil pan on my HZJ105. I found one in 22mm, most are smaller.
I contemplated drilling for an OEM spigot, but decided it wasn't worth the effort, or the risk.
The oil pan has to come off for either option.
Two things that put me off trying to go OEM, is the risk of having drill swarf floating around in the oil (if you're doing a rebuild, no issue), and if you balls up drilling into the cast crank cradle and end up with a leak, it's gonna be a pain to fix.
