Adding coolant temp gauge? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Rick did you get a chance to install? If so any feedback?

Had a few days with mine so far I like it, it centers well and not near as much needle movement during normal conditions as the first beta mod but still enough to let you know what is going on.

One oddity, the needle reaches just below center in a short period of time it takes about 5 miles and sometimes more to get to center, seams that last bit of warming up takes a wile longer.
 
t-stat opening slows down the heating?
 
everything is in and on 2 different drives it seems to behaving pretty much as stock. The needle sits there at the middle and doesn't move much if at all. I haven't driven more than 10 miles so I can't be sure but it looks alot more stable than without the 50ohm resistor.
 
Semlin that is one possibility I was thinking of, maybe after the T-stat opens it takes a wile to heat soak everything, the thermistor is on the outer surface of the head with a water jacket between it and the heat.


landtank said:
everything is in and on 2 different drives it seems to behaving pretty much as stock. The needle sits there at the middle and doesn't move much if at all. I haven't driven more than 10 miles so I can't be sure but it looks alot more stable than without the 50ohm resistor.
Click to expand...


Good deal, that is what we were looking for. Let me know if anything pops up, it should not at this point.

Not going to have time to write the detailed instructions until Thursday evening (hopefully) since nobody else volunteered to be guinea pigs we will move foreword, 3 gauges agreeing will have to be an acceptable sample.
 
landtank said:
everything is in and on 2 different drives it seems to behaving pretty much as stock. The needle sits there at the middle and doesn't move much if at all. I haven't driven more than 10 miles so I can't be sure but it looks alot more stable than without the 50ohm resistor.
Click to expand...


mine read around 185 a lot -which not coincidentally is the temp at which the thermostat is beginning to close- perhaps that is what you are seeing. But in town at red lights and when shutting down, I could see it spiking very readily to 195 and over (see my thread on engine temp numbers). So there is only a moderate amount of variation on flat terrain. But when I drove it up the mountain, of course, the increase was much more pronounced.
 
Raven,

Do you have any desire or given any thought to adding a dummy light or piezo?

:beer:
Rookie2
 
R2, Desire yes, but have not put much thought towards it except the removed zener might be possibly be used as a trigger, problem is the source is pure analog and a light and/or buzzer is an on/off thing, need to bridge that gap without messing with gauge readings (IE drawing much current from the gauge circuit, witch means needs sense and amplification) . Probably could be done with only a few components but need to put some effort towards it. Time is short right now.


If you are trying to wait for a light and or buzzer you probably would be better off to do this mod for now and possibly adding to it later, the light and or buzzer (basically a power out to power whatever alarm you want) should be an add on no effecting the base mod.


Rick that defiantly covers instructions for the mod but is not very electrard friendly.
 
raven,
i would agree the brief instructions are not 'electard' friendly :)

i think a lot of us can figure out how to get the cluster out and some/most can solder things, but i would love to have more description on what/which diode to take out, either by pics or description, how to replace, etc...

you've spent too much time to get it 90% and not get the last little bit written up... !!

thanks for your work.
 
Attached is a copy of a previous pic that was posted with the resistor and diode labelled. When replacing the those parts there is no need to be concerned about orientation, the new resistors can mount in either direction. When mounting them you will want some airspace between them and the board surface so that they can cool properly. The biggest hurdle in this mod is making sure that you get the correct resistor in the correct spot. So when receiving them be sure to keep them separate and in their labelled bags. I would remove both items from the board first and them make sure that all residual solder on the board at the connections is cleaned up. Next I'd start with the 50 ohm resistor which replaces the diode. First you'll want to make sure the lands (holes) in the board are open by sliding the resistor through them. Because of the tight working area I trimmed half of the ends off and then bent them down in a U shape and worked it into place. The same proceedure goes for the 110 ohm resistor. Then solder them into place and trim any excess lead off of them.


I think this should help those who are close to understanding what is going on until RT gets the 'electard' version together.
Guage.jpg
 
landtank said:
Did alot of driving yesturday and the mod works perfectly as far as regestering centered. I'll have to take your word that it willso an overheat problem.

Nice job with this.
Click to expand...


I am glad you like, Thanks for the help :cheers:
 
Got the 93 gauge from semlin today, the board is rearranged but visually is looks liek the parts wer are worried about are the same, will get it on the test bed soon and see what the stock response is.

Thanks Simon :cheers:
 
RavenTai said:
Got the 93 gauge from semlin today, the board is rearranged but visually is looks liek the parts wer are worried about are the same, will get it on the test bed soon and see what the stock response is.

Thanks Simon :cheers:
Click to expand...

good to know it arrived and that it looks the same. I am sticking to UPS from now on :D thanks for all your work on this on behalf of 93-94 (good 80) owners everywhere :cheers:

I am also not adverse to trying a slightly more sensitive set up if the test results are the same.
 
also, RT, if you still have the cluster from the lx450 you are parting out it might be fun to check and see whether the 93-94 gauge will fit. for future reference it would be good to know if they are interchangeable after all.
 
I still do have the cluster but it is at the shop, by visual comparison of the gauges they will not bolt up across the 94/95 split. Because of the 1 moved post. Other than that it looks like they would fit, some other differences some of witch IIRC you already caught

Face card part #
93, 769133-041 “10”
97, 769135-582 “16”

Other than that no difference in the face cards, right down to the # of waves in the water symbol

The PCB part#
93, 769902-961
97, 769916-420

2 of the stand offs on the 93 are round instead of hex and are soldered on the board instead of screwed on, the stand off heights and threads at the other end are the same.

The resistor is from a different manufacturer but is still 75 ohms, because this one is color coded we find out is is a %5 resistor, color codes are Violet, Green, Black, Gold

The diode looks similar but has what looks like a 10 or D 1 depending on how you look at it , the 97 has what looked like a 3 IIRC

The air core motor is wound slightly differently, all the leads are in the same place just wound slightly different.
9397face.jpg
9397rside.jpg
 
more
9397back.jpg
9397Lside.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

stvrn6
80 series Coolant temp, ScanGauge vs external gauge?
Replies
6
Views
2K
stvrn6
stvrn6
S
95 HDJ81: ATF cooler and temp gauge
Replies
1
Views
583
TheBussman
TheBussman
highsierra4x4
Ultra gauge temp issue
Replies
3
Views
588
greentruck
greentruck
C
Another gauge fuse thread
Replies
5
Views
496
CruiserHacker
C

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom