Add-a-fuse for CB install? (1 Viewer)

[heymarv]

Hey all,

Installed my CB today using an Add-a-fuse and it works like a charm, except for the radio, time, temp lcds now being without power.

I initially used the fuse marked CIGAR which at present has a 15A fuse. When I took the Add-a-fuse away and just plugged the fuse back in everything was back to normal. Wondering if there's a better fuse slot to use for CB, or if I can use one of the empty fuse slots (AHC) for example? Anyone experienced this?

 

[flintknapper]

Don't tap into another circuit to run your CB. Best to run a couple of wires directly to the battery and use a fuse holder inline with the positive wire. Also, 15 amps is WAY too much fuse for a CB. Typically 2-5 amps is used to protect it.

 

[richardlillard1]

Awful long wires to go all the way to the battery for something which pulls such a small amp load. Just tie into something which is always on, like seat wiring.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Hey all,

Installed my CB today using an Add-a-fuse and it works like a charm, except for the radio, time, temp lcds now being without power.

I initially used the fuse marked CIGAR which at present has a 15A fuse. When I took the Add-a-fuse away and just plugged the fuse back in everything was back to normal. Wondering if there's a better fuse slot to use for CB, or if I can use one of the empty fuse slots (AHC) for example? Anyone experienced this?

Sounds like you have a bad fuse. Also assuming you had both fuses in the add-a-fuse.
The bussing is the same on the power side of the fuse block so it does not matter what fuse you plug into. Some will be live without the key on and other not.

 

[flintknapper]

Awful long wires to go all the way to the battery for something which pulls such a small amp load. Just tie into something which is always on, like seat wiring.

The concern of course is not for the power draw (amp load) unless he is running Single Side Band (12 watts).

It is simply good practice to go straight to the battery to reduce/eliminate engine noise (interference). This can sometimes be attenuated if your CB has an ANL function.

For installations that are not permanent or if your needs are to only communicate over very short distances (Off-Road adventures where all vehicles are close by) then yes, hook it up the most convenient way possible.

It will serve you well enough. For permanent installations and/or where you need the best performance, I'd recommend going to the battery.

Likewise if there is limited availability to 'tap' into a fuse panel or other circuit. Especially if that circuit then becomes compromised (as was the case with the OP's installation).

 

[heymarv]

Thanks for the replies, y'all. This seemed like a good, fast way to get rolling on comms.

As it turns out, I'm a huge dolt. The add-a-fuse has two inputs, I mistakenly put the radio fuse in the cb spot which left the radio fuse empty, hence no power.

 

[richardlillard1]

The concern of course is not for the power draw (amp load) unless he is running Single Side Band (12 watts).

It is simply good practice to go straight to the battery to reduce/eliminate engine noise (interference). This can sometimes be attenuated if your CB has an ANL function.

For installations that are not permanent or if your needs are to only communicate over very short distances (Off-Road adventures where all vehicles are close by) then yes, hook it up the most convenient way possible.

It will serve you well enough. For permanent installations and/or where you need the best performance, I'd recommend going to the battery.

Likewise if there is limited availability to 'tap' into a fuse panel or other circuit. Especially if that circuit then becomes compromised (as was the case with the OP's installation).

I regularly communicate over distances of up to a mile, have gotten as far as about four miles in ideal conditions and having it hooked up to the seat wiring has never been an issue.

I realize your armchair expertise on the subject dictates you should approach it a certain way, but out in the field, or real world, things can be and often are done quite differently.

Side note; how did I get into the 100 forum?

 

[flintknapper]

I regularly communicate over distances of up to a mile, have gotten as far as about four miles in ideal conditions and having it hooked up to the seat wiring has never been an issue.

I realize your armchair expertise on the subject dictates you should approach it a certain way, but out in the field, or real world, things can be and often are done quite differently.

Side note; how did I get into the 100 forum?

I don't think 43 years of using CB's (installed and using in several vehicles in all conditions) relegates me to "Arm Chair Experience". Despite your insult....I am not dogmatic about the installation, use or fitness of any particular method. Just sharing what is generally best.....for the best performance with the fewest problems.