AC conversion.....

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MrZero

MrZero

Joined
Jan 18, 2004
Threads
61
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396
Location
Austin, TX
No more cold air. Compressor works, looks like the damn thing finally ran out of freon. The conversion kits to R134 I've seen seem pretty simple, but since this is a high-pressure system, I'm curious as to whether I should have a shop do it. Anybody do it themselves?

--ZERO
 
Do a cost analysis first.
Is a conversion now cheaper than a couple pounds of Freon?
Do you have a leak, or is it just normal seepage due to age?

To do a retrofit yourself, you'll need a manifold gauge set, 2 stage vacuum
pump and some way to recover the little bit of Freon that's left in the
system. That's in addition to the kit. It'll prolly be cheaper to just have a
shop recharge it and check for leaks.
 
i bought the conversion kit at wal-mart for $34 that was recommended by my toyota dealer, and they're doing the conversion for me. if it ever needs recharging in the future, i can do it myself - cheaper in the long run i believe. i will post more info after the conversion is complete, probably later this week
 
I've been working on this but haven't finished yet. You may need more than a recharge - on my system the expansion valve went...you should have it checked out by someone who knows. You can get the parts cheap enough - you'll have to change out your condenser and have your whole system vac'ed out and make sure it's clear of any of the lube that's used in your old freon.

After that, it's pretty easy. I have a leak in mine and have to take it all apart, put in new o-rings, etc. I'll probably just take it up to someone, have them clear the system and recharge it with the new R34 - may as well. I'll let them know it's being converted so that they can flush it, etc.

Also, according to Toyota, the system is stout enough to handle the higher pressure...so no need to change your compressor or anything else (well, except your condenser)
 
A year after purchasing my 62, I'm currently having a shop recharge mine and check for leaks. This is my first rig that has AC. How long does a charge typically last? Thanks
 
Why do you have to change the condenser? I am in the process of getting mine hooked up for the first time since and engine conversion. I had custom hoses made yesterday. I had an A/C shop give me a quote on getting it going again and they were going to reuse the condenser.
 
Everyone that I had talked to about AC work said if you're going to work on the system you change the condenser, especially during a conversion...I guess I'm just parroting the advice that I got. A condenser only costs about $15 anyway...

Maybe it's kind of like putting in a new throwout bearing when you replace a clutch?
 
Do you mean the "drier" rather than the "condenser?" Driers are commonly replaced and are cheap. The condenser is the massive heat exchanger mounted in front of the radiator - way more than 15$ to replace that.
 
Drier...that makes more sense. I did get a new one of those.
 
If you do the conversion make sure the guy tells you the lubricant he used. R134A has two possible oils and they are NOT compatible. For future reference you'll need to know which one you have.
 
I just converted my 87FJ60 with no problem. There is a Toyota TSB about doing it. Says right in it that you don't need to flush or remove the old oil. Have the R12 removed by a licensed pro. Replace the receiver/drier with on compatible with R134a (most that you buy new will be). The TSB gives the Toyota part number but it was about $36 rather than the $19 you can get one from CSK. While your there getting the drier, get the retrofit kit, about $35.

Since you don't remove the old oil, you need to use a Ester oil (the retrofit kit has R134a and oil in the same can). The old R12 oil doesn't mix with the R134a. Put on the new service ports; make sure you get the high side on the discharge side and the low side on the suction side (D and S on the compressor).

Once you put the new receiver/drier in (using new o rings), evacuate or have some one evacuate the system to 28-29inHg for at least 30 minutes (longer if the system was exposed to atmosphere long). Water boils off at 28 in Hg I believe.

Charge up with about 1 1/2 cans (a can with 12 oz of R134a equals about a pound). If you don't have a manifold gauge set the rule of thumb is 80% of the R12 capacity (1.68 lbs for my FJ60 I think).

Here is the TSB http://olympiafj60.home.comcast.net//ac002t98.pdf.


HTH,

Brandon
Olympia, WA
 
Man, this is awesome information. I need to fix my A/C and have been putting it off and suffering for the last two summers. I have a couple of problems, though.

The TSB posted by Oly says it applies to Landcruisers back to '86. Mine is an '84. Is there any difference?

I've got issues other than just the conversion, as all my R-12 has leaked out and been gone for two years. I want to replace all the O-rings and seals. I doubt that the retro-kit has all of them, how do I order a kit to get everything I need?

I hope we can keep this thread going. I have to drive from the Seattle area down to California this July and would like to get it working before I do.
 
Ummm...I wouldn't use these o-rings in your a/c system. The o-rings for R134A are made of a special material and are typically green. I got mine at a local Napa. They were around a $1 each. R134A is evidently a very tiny molecule and will leak through some of the normal materials that are used to seal things. The hose used in R134A systems has a special vapor barrier inside it to help prevent leaks. When I had my system charged they also put in some kind of two part sealing treatment that was designed for R134A systems
 
That's odd - none of the orings that I've messed with in my system were green - they were all black and seemed very similar to the new stuff - is there a dif between the o rings used for the R12 and the R134? Maybe that's why you needed the sealant?
 
I believe there is a difference between R12 and R134a o-rings. R-12 is a bigger molecule and doesn't leak as easy. My A/C was just done yesterday and I had all new R134a hoses made up because of an engine swap. I replaced all o-rings with green ones except for two small #5 ones that nobody seemed to have. I got a little baggy of A/C o-rings from the local Toyota that had the two I needed but they weren't green. I put the sealer in as a what the heck.
 
Thanks - this is the kind of stuff I need to know. If the R-134a molecule is smaller than the R-12, and I already have leaks, I'm going to have to be meticulous about making sure to replace seals and O rings. Am I going to have to replace hoses too, or is this "treatment" stuff supposed to be able to take care of that?
 
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