AC conversion.....

[OlympiaFJ60]

[quote author=jeffroid link=board=29;threadid=16914;start=msg164804#msg164804 date=1085625712]
I've got issues other than just the conversion, as all my R-12 has leaked out and been gone for two years. I want to replace all the O-rings and seals. I doubt that the retro-kit has all of them, how do I order a kit to get everything I need?[/quote]

Try importedcarparts.com. That is were I found mine. Had the service fittings (don't really need these since the a/c retrofit kit has them) and more O-rings than you will need. These are the kind ment for R134a.

Brandon
Olympia, WA

 

[OlympiaFJ60]

[quote author=swank60 link=board=29;threadid=16914;start=msg165211#msg165211 date=1085695099]
can you use teflon tape on the fittings?
[/quote]

I don't think it is recomended to use teflon tape on compression type fittings. With all new O-rings if you are still having a leak it is likely some other part of the system.

Brandon
Olympia, WA

 

[jeffroid]

Thanks Brandon, but I went to that importedcarparts.com site and clicked all over that place but couldn't find any o-ring or conversion kit.

 

[OlympiaFJ60]

[quote author=jeffroid link=board=29;threadid=16914;start=msg165354#msg165354 date=1085715655]
Thanks Brandon, but I went to that importedcarparts.com site and clicked all over that place but couldn't find any o-ring or conversion kit.
[/quote]

Part number for kit 4J400-59961. I guess I didn't remeber well. It is a little pricey at $30. It has all the orings you would need though.

Or you can try Arizona Mobile Air (or most any other A/C place) http://store.ackits.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AMA&Product_Code=21-24708. Much better price, $15

 

[swank60]

I guess I should thank my stupid leaking power steering pump for keeping me away from the AC job...now I'll be able to put it together with the right o-rings. I was going to use those other things (the AC guy said "oh, anything will work" - so much for that...)

And on the tape thing, I was thinking of using that as a stop-gap, not a replacement for the orings...just to clarify.

 

[jeffroid]

This forum is awesome! I almost have enough info to be dangerous. Sounds like all I have to do replace all the o rings, buy a conversion kit (drier, fittings, and a sticker), reuse everything else (including the hoses). I'm still not sure about the oil, or why that TSB posted by Oly says it only goes back to '86. I'm afraid there's something I might be missing.

 

[OlympiaFJ60]

[quote author=jeffroid link=board=29;threadid=16914;start=msg165569#msg165569 date=1085758744]
I'm still not sure about the oil, or why that TSB posted by Oly says it only goes back to '86. I'm afraid there's something I might be missing.
[/quote]

If you get the retrofit kit from the auto parts store, it will have the correct oil in the R134a charge cans so you don't have to worry about that.

I believe the thing with only going back to '86 in the TSB may be the compressors used. The TSB only mentions the 10P15C compressor and this may be an '86 and newer compressor. I have a 6P148A compressor in my '87. I think this may be an '87 and older compressor. Why they would have used two different compressors during those years, I don't know. This is all just my assumptions. I you have the 6P148A compressor, it should work just fine (mine is).

 

[swank60]

I was told by Toyota that the compressor in my '83 is fine for the conversion, if that helps. You can always give them a call and confirm.

 

[jeffroid]

Allrighty then - thanks again ! ! !

 

[hj60]

WRT a new condensor: Yes, a new condenser may be recommended by
some shops during a conversion. When the manufacturers went from R-12
to R-134A, condenser designs changed. If you do a retrofit and it blows
cold on the hottest day, then keep your existing condenser. If not, and
nothing else seems wrong, you may want to swap in a newer style one.
As for getting out the old oil, use rubbing alcohol. After evacuating the
system for a few hours (it can take that long for all the refrigerant to boil
out of the compressor oil), flush it out thoroughly with alcohol. (the
compressor should be removed for this). Then reconnect the compressor.
If you want to be really thorough, use dry nitrogen to purge out anything
left inside. Then re-evacuate and charge.

Also, for those of you concerned with leaks, most shops have
dye-penetrant kits for AC.
And both Freon (R-12) and Suva (R-134A) will leak very very very slowly.
An R-134A charge should last a minimum of 2 years if the system is free of
any true leaks.
On those green O-rings, only certain brands are green. As long as they are branded as R-134A-safe, they should be fine.