I picked up a kit from Valley Hybrids last fall and was saving this for a winter project. Parts include the HD valve body, new filter screen, o-ring for filter screen & 3-valve piston grommets, torque converter lock-up kit, and transmission cooler kit. I've pulled the pan several times in the past to clean the screen and refresh the fluids. About 19 bolts later, the valve body assembly drops out. The included instructions were pretty straightforward, though they don't depict the exact A750 transmission in the illustrations/images. You do have to be careful as you lower the assembly, as some of the valves will likely drop out and the tiny ball pressure switch will definitely drop out. I didn't see where it fell from and it took a minute for me to locate it's proper place when I reassembled everything.
Pan and screen removed. Next is to carefully remove the harness plugs from each solenoid. They are each unique in color/size/shape, so there is no mixing them up when you rewire this on the new valve body. Two sensors are near the filter screen orifice and have specific orientation, so take note there as you go.
New and old side by side. The new valve body does not come with new solenoids (or any hardware for that matter). These get transported from the old VB to the new. Take your time and it's really easy. The manual shift linkage comes out only after removing the two solenoids blocking it's travel path (top right on old VB). Solenoids are retained by either a bracket and bolt, or a bracket, bolt and alignment pin. The alignment pins are held in place by a steel bracket that's bolted to the VB surface.
Pulling one of the alignment pins (also get transplanted to the new VB).
Looking up at the transmission, you can see the 4 valves (one on the right dropped out) that are still held in by viscous magic. Leave 'em be or add some vaseline to keep them in place. If the trans is still warm, vaseline will do no good. The three grommets along the medial line get replaced with new (included in kit). The smaller rectangular opening at top right is where the small ball pressure valve seats. It will take a lot of vaseline to hold it in place because it has a very loose/free fit in this recess.
Removing the last solenoid on this end will allow the manual linkage piston to be dismounted and moved over.
Here's where the tiny ballpoint pen-like pressure valve ball goes.
Then find yourself a nice inch-pound torque wrench to reassemble all the 10mm bolts (8 ft-lbs = 96 inch-lbs). Three of the bolts are 36mm long and the rest are 25mm long. The three long ones go in near the filter orifice along side the sensors I mentioned above. It's in the instructions, pretty clearly, but I took a sharpie pen and marked an "L" next to those three bolt holes before I got back under the truck just to make it easier on me. This is the trickiest part - making sure all the valves and springs don't fall back out of the upper assembly while trying to get the manual linkage arm into place and then running a few bolts in to hold it in place while you insert the other 15 bolts.
The last thing to do is clean up the lower sump pan. Mine had a fine black silt all over it and the magnets. Took a few minute to clean it up and prep the FIPG surface. I scraped most of the old FIPG off with a brass brush, then used a rubber bristle cup to "polish" it.
Pan and screen removed. Next is to carefully remove the harness plugs from each solenoid. They are each unique in color/size/shape, so there is no mixing them up when you rewire this on the new valve body. Two sensors are near the filter screen orifice and have specific orientation, so take note there as you go.
New and old side by side. The new valve body does not come with new solenoids (or any hardware for that matter). These get transported from the old VB to the new. Take your time and it's really easy. The manual shift linkage comes out only after removing the two solenoids blocking it's travel path (top right on old VB). Solenoids are retained by either a bracket and bolt, or a bracket, bolt and alignment pin. The alignment pins are held in place by a steel bracket that's bolted to the VB surface.
Pulling one of the alignment pins (also get transplanted to the new VB).
Looking up at the transmission, you can see the 4 valves (one on the right dropped out) that are still held in by viscous magic. Leave 'em be or add some vaseline to keep them in place. If the trans is still warm, vaseline will do no good. The three grommets along the medial line get replaced with new (included in kit). The smaller rectangular opening at top right is where the small ball pressure valve seats. It will take a lot of vaseline to hold it in place because it has a very loose/free fit in this recess.
Removing the last solenoid on this end will allow the manual linkage piston to be dismounted and moved over.
Here's where the tiny ballpoint pen-like pressure valve ball goes.
Then find yourself a nice inch-pound torque wrench to reassemble all the 10mm bolts (8 ft-lbs = 96 inch-lbs). Three of the bolts are 36mm long and the rest are 25mm long. The three long ones go in near the filter orifice along side the sensors I mentioned above. It's in the instructions, pretty clearly, but I took a sharpie pen and marked an "L" next to those three bolt holes before I got back under the truck just to make it easier on me. This is the trickiest part - making sure all the valves and springs don't fall back out of the upper assembly while trying to get the manual linkage arm into place and then running a few bolts in to hold it in place while you insert the other 15 bolts.
The last thing to do is clean up the lower sump pan. Mine had a fine black silt all over it and the magnets. Took a few minute to clean it up and prep the FIPG surface. I scraped most of the old FIPG off with a brass brush, then used a rubber bristle cup to "polish" it.
