Build A girl named Paul

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Also to add to that ….it could be the temp sender (cold start injector time switch) in the thermostat housing that feeds the cold start injector, mine was having that issue & that fixed it…. Make sure you get the correct one (there’s 4 🤣).

Nice work with the starter!!


Picture here:

Post in thread 'FJ62- correct way to seal temperature gauge sensor?'
FJ62- correct way to seal temperature gauge sensor? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-correct-way-to-seal-temperature-gauge-sensor.1122922/post-12185686
 
tmxmotorsports said:
Slow start might be a dirty cold start injector.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I’ve cleaned it to within an inch of its life.
It starts slightly better. Good tip for sure.
I’ve replaced the FPR, fuel filter, charcoal canister, checked the fuel pulsation damper (good)…

I have a new fuel pump and sock to install when I’m feeling randy.

In all honesty, it is probably as good as it is supposed to be. More than a second and less than two of cranking.
Used to the instant fire of my carb’d FJ40.
 
huminajumina said:
Also to add to that ….it could be the temp sender (cold start injector time switch) in the thermostat housing that feeds the cold start injector, mine was having that issue & that fixed it…. Make sure you get the correct one (there’s 4 🤣).

Nice work with the starter!!


Picture here:

Post in thread 'FJ62- correct way to seal temperature gauge sensor?'
FJ62- correct way to seal temperature gauge sensor? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-correct-way-to-seal-temperature-gauge-sensor.1122922/post-12185686
Click to expand...
Splendid, I shall investigate. Thank you.
 
FLRK by Cruiser Trash
Other than swapping duties as a daily with the 40 Norman, Paul got a little work done on her nervous system in the form of an @CruiserTrash FJ62 FLRK (fusible link replacement kit).

If you have an FJ62 I highly recommend this investment.

I say investment because it is certainly a long term benefit to the health, ease of repair and peace of mind that makes running these older trucks a joy.
I also say investment because it’s not cheap. It’s not cheap price wise but it is really not cheap in the quality of components and the attention to detail.

This is a wonderfully well thought out and executed addition/substitution/upgrade for your vehicle.

Jim covers installation really well in the 6-page booklet so this will be a quick overview.

The kit is heavy and seems large, but the mounting method and location is really clever in how it uses the washer bottle mounting bolts. The bottom bolt is a beech nut to get to so I cut a slot in the lower mounting point to mimic the washer tank mounting:

IMG_6750.webp


Here the plate is mounted and waiting for the brains. The mounting holes are tapped for the included JIS screws. So thoughtful.
IMG_6751.webp


The only real “skill” needed is wiring the new plug to the old wires. There are marine grade heat shrink butt (hehe) connectors pre installed on one side. If you don’t know how to properly crimp a butt connector, learn. There is a difference.

I incorporated glue lined heat shrink as well, not because I’m special, just because I had it.
IMG_6762.webp
IMG_6770.webp
IMG_6809.webp

Third pic shows my ignition wire upgrade.

Installed and routed the cables. Just the right amount of excess for all the cables. Again, very well thought out.

IMG_6811.webp
IMG_6812.webp
IMG_6814.webp


All in all, very happy with this kit and my truck does start noticeably better. That may be due to cleaning all the connections, new connections, confirmation bias or the fact that this thing rocks!

I know Jim but have no skin in the game, if this sucked, I’d say so. It doesn’t, it’s great. Here’s a link: FJ62 Fusible Link Replacement Kit - https://cruisertrashparts.com/products/fj62-fusible-link-replacement-kit-1

Great job Jim!

IMG_6813.webp
 
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RevISK said:
Other than swapping duties as a daily with the 40 Norman, Paul got a little work done on her nervous system in the form of an @CruiserTrash FJ62 FLRK (fusible link replacement kit).

If you have an FJ62 I highly recommend this investment.

I say investment because it is certainly a long term benefit to the health, ease of repair and peace of mind that makes running these older trucks a joy.
I also say investment because it’s not cheap. It’s not cheap price wise but it is really not cheap in the quality of components and the attention to detail.

This is a wonderfully well thought out and executed addition/substitution/upgrade for your vehicle.

Jim covers installation really well in the 6-page booklet so this will be a quick overview.

The kit is heavy and seems large, but the mounting method and location is really clever in how it uses the washer bottle mounting bolts. The bottom bolt is a beech nut to get to so I cut a slot in the lower mounting point to mimic the washer tank mounting:

View attachment 4047406

Here the plate is mounted and waiting for the brains. The mounting holes are tapped for the included JIS screws. So thoughtful.
View attachment 4047407

The only real “skill” needed is wiring the new plug to the old wires. There are marine grade heat shrink butt (hehe) connectors pre installed on one side. If you don’t know how to properly crimp a butt connector, learn. There is a difference.

I incorporated glue lined heat shrink as well, not because I’m special, just because I had it.
View attachment 4047416View attachment 4047417View attachment 4047418
Third pic shows my ignition wire upgrade.

Installed and routed the cables. Just the right amount of excess for all the cables. Again, very well thought out.

View attachment 4047419View attachment 4047420View attachment 4047422

All in all, very happy with this kit and my truck does start noticeably better. That may be due to cleaning all the connections, new connections, confirmation bias or the fact that this thing rocks!

I know Jim but have no skin in the game, if this sucked, I’d say so. It doesn’t, it’s great. Here’s a link: FJ62 Fusible Link Replacement Kit - https://cruisertrashparts.com/products/fj62-fusible-link-replacement-kit-1

Great job Jim!

View attachment 4047421
Click to expand...
Thanks for the thorough write up Ian! And thanks for the photos, which I’m going to use haha.
 
CruiserTrash said:
Thanks for the thorough write up Ian! And thanks for the photos, which I’m going to use haha.
Click to expand...
My pleasure Jim, this is how Uncle T should’ve done it from the start.

Use away, I can send them to you as well for full resolution. Also happy to put a bit of effort into taking more.

Maybe if someone nearby is installing I can do a legit shoot?
@MWM1 has one to install I believe?
 
RevISK said:
Other than swapping duties as a daily with the 40 Norman, Paul got a little work done on her nervous system in the form of an @CruiserTrash FJ62 FLRK (fusible link replacement kit).

If you have an FJ62 I highly recommend this investment.

I say investment because it is certainly a long term benefit to the health, ease of repair and peace of mind that makes running these older trucks a joy.
I also say investment because it’s not cheap. It’s not cheap price wise but it is really not cheap in the quality of components and the attention to detail.

This is a wonderfully well thought out and executed addition/substitution/upgrade for your vehicle.

Jim covers installation really well in the 6-page booklet so this will be a quick overview.

The kit is heavy and seems large, but the mounting method and location is really clever in how it uses the washer bottle mounting bolts. The bottom bolt is a beech nut to get to so I cut a slot in the lower mounting point to mimic the washer tank mounting:

View attachment 4047406

Here the plate is mounted and waiting for the brains. The mounting holes are tapped for the included JIS screws. So thoughtful.
View attachment 4047407

The only real “skill” needed is wiring the new plug to the old wires. There are marine grade heat shrink butt (hehe) connectors pre installed on one side. If you don’t know how to properly crimp a butt connector, learn. There is a difference.

I incorporated glue lined heat shrink as well, not because I’m special, just because I had it.
View attachment 4047416View attachment 4047417View attachment 4047418
Third pic shows my ignition wire upgrade.

Installed and routed the cables. Just the right amount of excess for all the cables. Again, very well thought out.

View attachment 4047419View attachment 4047420View attachment 4047422

All in all, very happy with this kit and my truck does start noticeably better. That may be due to cleaning all the connections, new connections, confirmation bias or the fact that this thing rocks!

I know Jim but have no skin in the game, if this sucked, I’d say so. It doesn’t, it’s great. Here’s a link: FJ62 Fusible Link Replacement Kit - https://cruisertrashparts.com/products/fj62-fusible-link-replacement-kit-1

Great job Jim!

View attachment 4047421
Click to expand...
Oh hell yeah! Great stuff Jim!!
 
RevISK said:
My pleasure Jim, this is how Uncle T should’ve done it from the start.

Use away, I can send them to you as well for full resolution. Also happy to put a bit of effort into taking more.

Maybe if someone nearby is installing I can do a legit shoot?
@MWM1 has one to install I believe?
Click to expand...
will be adding to the list of parts to order during the engine swap
 
87freerunner said:
will be adding to the list of parts to order during the engine swap
Click to expand...
Perfect, I'll help and we can get more pics for Jimbo too.

When is the big yank anyway?
 
klip said:
Can you post some pics of how the cables for the FLRK are routed through the engine bay? And do you have any pics of what’s in the FLRK box? TIA!
Click to expand...
IMG_3537.webp


In the box:
1. Fuse panel with three cable subassemblies already attached (6awg battery cable, 6awg alternator cable, smaller subassembly with four wires and two connectors)
2. Bracket
3. Four white zinc plated JIS M6x1.0 screws to attach fuse panel to bracket.

It’s exactly what you see in the photo, plus four screws. Happy to answer any other questions.
 
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Exterior New
Not much happening other than driving. Did a valve adjustment and new plugs, runs real pretty except now the exhaust manifold leak is more pronounced (more ticky).

Took advantage of the latest Serra Toyota sale to finally do the 4 Runner wiper conversion. Big difference, should have done it long ago.

I know there are vendors who sell this kit, usually for about $200 with shipping and tax, with the sale I was right at $130 to my door. I’d have done it from a vendor but the savings were great.
5 days left on the sale.

IMG_7961.webp


IMG_7959.webp


IMG_7958.webp


IMG_7957.webp
 
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Power steering box New
So, my gear box is starting to leak pretty bad. And groan. Also, I think this might be the root of the clunk CD @ceylonfj40nut couldn’t hear.

Looking at options and I’ll welcome your opinions please.

Keeping 60 series box

In no particular order:
A) send to Read Head for a rebuild, $534 plus tax and shipping ($650?) and a couple weeks down.

B) rebuild kit from Toyota (on sale, $125 to my door) head down to Jimmy’s @CenTXFJ60 and benefit from his experience.

C) buy from Georg @orangefj45 ($700-$800? He’s in Moab until Monday) swap out.

80 series box

D) reman oe from Napa at about $600

E) anyone have a line on an 80 box?

IMG_7970.webp
 
I’d go with B.

You & I both know how valuable Jimmy’s time & expertise can be, & if he’s willing & has the time there’s no question. Plus you aren’t bad with the wrenches too. Win win.👍🎯👍
 
I rebuilt my steering box and it was actually pretty fun to learn how it works. If you lose one of the recirculating ball bearings I have some extra (that I had to buy when I dropped a few that were never found). Buy extra of the largest teflon seal (around the piston if I recall), because you will absolutely slice it when you put it in. Sand the sharp edges on the intersecting bores inside.
 
CruiserTrash said:
I rebuilt my steering box and it was actually pretty fun to learn how it works. If you lose one of the recirculating ball bearings I have some extra (that I had to buy when I dropped a few that were never found). Buy extra of the largest teflon seal (around the piston if I recall), because you will absolutely slice it when you put it in. Sand the sharp edges on the intersecting bores inside.
Click to expand...
I read a thread that you commented on, remember that note.

@John McVicker thank you for the vote of confidence sir, means loads coming from you. I feel like I could do the rebuild and any excuse (not that anyone need one) to hang with Jimmy in the magic barn is a win.

I shall order the kit today. Too bad City Racer is closed for awhile, I'd get the kit from him as it is actually about the same as from the dealer with the sale and free shipping.

Thanks y'all...
 
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