A first attempt at restoring a 78 FJ40

[AndyO78FJ40]

Well I figured it was time for me to start a build thread (in order to prevent what John/Josh has done). First I enjoyed meeting many of you at the CLC meeting this month, and look forward to the next meeting.

I bought this 1978 FJ40 in November from a guy who had it since 1979. He was a Navy guy, so he took it all over the world with him. It was shipped to Japan with him, then Crete where he drove it over Greece and the Greek Isles. Next he took it to Cairo and Istanbul, then Europe where he brough it to the Winter Olympics in Sarejevo.

Being a Navy guy, he lined the tub with Naval Non-Skid. This is the stuff that they put on aircraft carriers. It has done a good job protecting the metal, but it takes a lot of chiseling and elbow grease to remove it.

My plan is to restore it back to original. I am toying with the idea with a 2.5 inch lift and 33x9.5x15 tires to give it that retro offroad look (yes John I know this is a change in plans).

I am looking for a fun weekend driver that I can someday enter into a classic car show and show people that there are other things besides Jeeps and Broncos.

This is my first attempt at a restoration and I do not have very much experience, but I look forward to learning. I have already learned a lot from the forums.

You may also notice the interesting paint job. The PO decided to cover up surface spots with a "Similiar" rust oleum spray paint. I hope to wet sand some of this off.

And yes, before I get any comments, I have removed the bezel and plan on putting the thick side on top after I finish sanding and painting it white.

Thanks for taking a look.

 

[AndyO78FJ40]

Progress

Now for my progress...

So far I have taken all of the doors off and removed the old dry rotted weather stripping and residue. The only major rust I have found is the bottom of the front doors. After I get my angle grinder for christmas, I plan on getting after it and using some of rust bullet to save the door.

I have also been "Attacking" the Non-Skid and remarkably the paint is good underneath it. I attached a pic of the progress on the front floor pan (I am hoping the hole in the lower left hand corner is supposed to be there as a drain hole) and the bed that I have not started on.

I also got a new OEM pewter bumper and will attach it once my Kroil gets in and I can get finally get the old one off. (Lenny, I still may need your plasma cutter)

Andy

 

[jsosh26]

I don't like that you are implying I was wrong....I was only wrong in posting 5 threads if you ask Jeff, Greg, Grogan, Lenny, David, Rob, JRob, etc. etc. I still LOVE the history and can't believe you have an FJ. Did you ever get that front bumper to even budge? I think we just need to get Lenny and some plasma cutting involved.

Definitely working all next week on the top, seat, tank, paint, rust removal....give me a call and tell Jennifer to give us a call if she needs ANYTHING this weekend. Natalie and I can run her food or whatever.

and umm.....DON'T use that heater until we can clean it......I don't want ya'll shacked up with us after you burn your house down!

 

[77TLCFJ40]

A little Kroil and a blue wrench (propane flame) will take care of those rusty bolts. Better yet, just strong arm them and break them off. You will need new bolts with a new bumper anyway. Do you own a breaker bar? You need one.

Cool history on your 40 Andy. Welcome to the sickness/club.

Let me know if you need any parts.

 

[Bodean]

X2 on the Kroil. Google it. I'm sure you will keep us posted as well as involved. I'll be happy to help. Holla if you need to look at my 78 for a reference on what things are. I like the 2.5" lift and the 33's idea. Good look without getting too far from stock. Holla!

 

[77TLCFJ40]

Hell Creek Suspensions is located in New Albany, MS. Lots of HC lifts in our club. Tom sells a 2.5" and a 4" kit. I go up there for work, so save your $100 shipping.

 

[AndyO78FJ40]

Thanks for all of the comments. I ordered the kroil last week and bought a propane torch, so if those don't work I may need the breaker bar. I want to save the gussets, but that may not be possible.

Jeff, I will definitely use your rig as a reference and tap into you experience in exchange for some beer.

Lash, I will have take you up on the offer to pick up the lift kit someday. I want to save up for the kit and tires while I am working on getting the rest of the truck into shape. I just moved tires and suspension work down on my to do list so I don't waste money on doing things twice.

Speaking of tires, you may have noticed my rims are not stock. They are steel black rims, but I would prefer the white steel rims that came on the later 40s. I thought about painting them white to have a similar look, but figured it may look bad.

 

[euclid]

Very cool. Welcome.

 

[jesterb]

That's Robin Roberts' old truck. Very cool.

 

[dnp]

I don't know how extensively you're going to go after the rust (and this isn't necessarily the procedure for every rusty part), but Metal Finishing Services over on Boling Street (601-355-3317) has the ability to "vat" parts as large as your entire vehicle. The process they use is nothing short of miraculous! I took a REALLY rusty 80 tank to them (the way the interior of the tank looked, I wasn't even sure if it was going to be salvageable), and when I got it back - all hyperbole aside - it looked like I had just pulled it off the shelf at a Toyota Parts department! Again, that's not what you'll want to do for every rusty part situation, but if you find some serious rust on parts that are not rusted through the metal or if you simply can't get the paint off of some parts, they're the ones to see......and, on top of that, they were reasonably priced

 

[dnp]

That's Robin Roberts' old truck. Very cool.

I didn't know she was into 'Cruisers......

 

[jsosh26]

I don't know how extensively you're going to go after the rust (and this isn't necessarily the procedure for every rusty part), but Metal Finishing Services over on Boling Street (601-355-3317) has the ability to "vat" parts as large as your entire vehicle. The process they use is nothing short of miraculous! I took a REALLY rusty 80 tank to them (the way the interior of the tank looked, I wasn't even sure if it was going to be salvageable), and when I got it back - all hyperbole aside - it looked like I had just pulled it off the shelf at a Toyota Parts department! Again, that's not what you'll want to do for every rusty part situation, but if you find some serious rust on parts that are not rusted through the metal or if you simply can't get the paint off of some parts, they're the ones to see......and, on top of that, they were reasonably priced

GREAT to know David....however.....Andy and I are hoping to get most of the rust with grinders....his truck really has a solid frame and tub...it does have alot of surface rust....I think it might have something to do with living in 4 countries and all the salt water it's seen.

how much do you think they would charge for all 4 of my 40 doors? they are eaten up bad on the bottom and a few holes are approaching quarter size on the bottom. im planning to take them apart and see what im really dealing with and dunking them may be a good way to get um clean.

 

[FineWynsFJ40]

The problem with soaking them in a solution to dissolve the rust is that sometimes you end up with Swiss cheese - metal that is there, but not useful in a structural sense. Sandblasting is better in that the weaker metal is simply obliterated, leaving only quality metal. However, there are occasions where sandblasting is not ideal, and that's when the electrolysis soaking process is preferred. Choose wisely, young grasshopper!

(I sandblasted all of my parts, and the really rusty stuff like the tub I simply replaced )

Good luck! I'm looking forward to watching your progress.

Brian

 

[offr0adlim0]

GREAT to know David....however.....Andy and I are hoping to get most of the rust with grinders....his truck really has a solid frame and tub...it does have alot of surface rust....I think it might have something to do with living in 4 countries and all the salt water it's seen.

how much do you think they would charge for all 4 of my 40 doors? they are eaten up bad on the bottom and a few holes are approaching quarter size on the bottom. im planning to take them apart and see what im really dealing with and dunking them may be a good way to get um clean.

Dont remember how bad your doors are but I have a clean set of rear doors I'll sell you. $275 and they are yours. Pics are in classified section under "fj40 barn doors and hard top".

 

[dnp]

The problem with soaking them in a solution to dissolve the rust is that sometimes you end up with Swiss cheese - metal that is there, but not useful in a structural sense. Sandblasting is better in that the weaker metal is simply obliterated, leaving only quality metal. However, there are occasions where sandblasting is not ideal, and that's when the electrolysis soaking process is preferred. Choose wisely, young grasshopper!

(I sandblasted all of my parts, and the really rusty stuff like the tub I simply replaced )

Good luck! I'm looking forward to watching your progress.

Brian

I tend to think this dipping method would be a less aggressive process than blasting. They use an alkaline (rather than acidic) process, so I believe it'd be less likely to harm metal that doesn't need to be removed. Furthermore, my sense is that a non-acidic dipping process would be less "injurious" to good metal than high-speed media impact or with a tool that's designed to grind away anything in its way......just my opinion after having used all three methods on past projects.

Josh, I'm not sure how much they'd charge to dip your doors, but from the times I've used them in the past, their prices seemed to be reasonable.

 

[jsosh26]

Dont remember how bad your doors are but I have a clean set of rear doors I'll sell you. $275 and they are yours. Pics are in classified section under "fj40 barn doors and hard top".

ill go look at them....mine aren't to bad...actually the only rust is on the bottom part and I think cleaning/rust bullet/bondo will work

 

[AndyO78FJ40]

Rust Solutions

Thanks for the info on the rust solutions. I will check them out. I am trying to balance doing things myself (to save money for my parts etc) and doing things right the first time so I don't waste time and effort. The reason the doors concern me is because I am afraid I can treat the front side of the door (with a grinder or rust bullet), only to leave the inside of the door to further rust away.

Speaking of rust, I have also seen Rust Oleum Rust Reformer. Has anyone used this? It is supposed to convert the rust to another compound and prevent it from spreading. I thought about using this in some areas of surface rust that are superficial.

It is Robin Robertson's old truck. I agree I don't think Robin Roberts is into Land Cruisers.

 

[jsosh26]

Thanks for the info on the rust solutions. I will check them out. I am trying to balance doing things myself (to save money for my parts etc) and doing things right the first time so I don't waste time and effort. The reason the doors concern me is because I am afraid I can treat the front side of the door (with a grinder or rust bullet), only to leave the inside of the door to further rust away.

Speaking of rust, I have also seen Rust Oleum Rust Reformer. Has anyone used this? It is supposed to convert the rust to another compound and prevent it from spreading. I thought about using this in some areas of surface rust that are superficial.

It is Robin Robertson's old truck. I agree I don't think Robin Roberts is into Land Cruisers.

 

[wct49]

congrats.
get ready.

 

[Bodean]

I poured some of that rust converter (might be like that Rustoleum stuff) in the bottom of my doors after I cleaned as much as I could up. Make sure the drain holes are clear. Make them bigger if possible. Clogged drains in the doors are usually the culprit when the door bottoms rot out.