A closer look at the OEM Cyclonic Air Filter

[dclee]

The cyclonic was one of the coolest things on my old 80s. The US-spec 100 panel filter was part of the "pussification" of the LC, IMHO!

 

[OGBeno]

So a 1FZ air filter will work for this application.

Good to know.

 

[Tools R Us]

I'm accustomed to monitoring the air filter gauge in our big rigs. You might find it helpful. ...

Filter-Minders work great. I don't see the need for a dash mount, the under hood unit is plenty. They basically never move, so only need to be checked occasionally.

Put me down as well. That filter style was one of my most favorite things about my 80 series. It's a brilliant design.

Agree, the cyclonic setup works great, the filters stay clean for a very longtime, even when used in silty/dusty desert conditions.

If the 100 series air filter setup is truly restrictive, that is a disappointment. All of the other Cruiser setups that I have played with are well designed/matched, even have the capacity to hold lots of dust before becoming restrictive.

 

[spressomon]

Filter-Minders work great. I don't see the need for a dash mount, the under hood unit is plenty. They basically never move, so only need to be checked occasionally.



Agree, the cyclonic setup works great, the filters stay clean for a very longtime, even when used in silty/dusty desert conditions.

If the 100 series air filter setup is truly restrictive, that is a disappointment. All of the other Cruiser setups that I have played with are well designed/matched, even have the capacity to hold lots of dust before becoming restrictive.

FYI: On a typical Nevada or Utah 2-3 week trip involving hundreds if not a thousand miles of dirt (during the dusty months of course ) I typically need to replace my OEM filter element, or at the very least blow it out thoroughly, 2-3 times; no dorkel though.

 

[100 TD]

I purchased from this seller previously when they were $14 shipped anywhere in the world free, so his price has gone up, just to see if they were OEM or not. Mine arrived damaged, was only wrapped in one layer of bubblewrap, I couldn't be bothered sending him pictures of the damage and try to get my money back.
Yes it looks OEM, but I didn't have an old OEM one to compare it to, but it "looked" reasonable. The only catch is of course, you don't know the quality of the filtration media if it is a copy. Recently someone in Aust. was selling OEM oil filters for our diesels for approx $7 ea delivered, normal price is about $50 for these as they are a dual element filter, they have a full flow filter as well as a bypass filter specifically for the diesels. The seller was purchasing direct from Japan, but the filters were "COPIES" and they didn't have the dual element in them but were stamped, badged and boxed as OEM Toyota filters. SO be careful................

I see this one on ebay for $34 delivered but I can't tell if it is "genuine" OEM. It looks OEM and it says Toyota with the correct part number but it is coming from HK.

 

[Tools R Us]

FYI: On a typical Nevada or Utah 2-3 week trip involving hundreds if not a thousand miles of dirt (during the dusty months of course ) I typically need to replace my OEM filter element, or at the very least blow it out thoroughly, 2-3 times; no dorkel though.

Need or feel you need, how do you judge?

My guess is; most off roaders clean/replace them much more often than necessary, I know I did. At one time I cleaned/replaced mine a couple of times a year.

When I put the Filter-Minder on, the filter was a used Toyota cleanable, it had been cleaned a couple of times. Ran it for ~25K mi, ~2yrs, thousands of dusty trail miles, including Lockhart Canyon, Beef Basin, Rug Road, etc. The Filter-Minder reading never changed. Last year, got a good deal on a new filter, so slapped it in, same reading, will run this one out until the gauge indicates to clean it, it will be years?

This is on my 80 with cyclonic, the point is, they are very efficient. The pic is Rug Road, ~50mi looked like that. At the end of a day like that, the tuna can will have 1/4-1/2" (~1/2 a cup?) of silt in it. If it weren't for the cyclonic that silt would be in the filter.

I don't have a dorkel, don't see the point?

 

[spressomon]

Need or feel you need, how do you judge?

My guess is; most off roaders clean/replace them much more often than necessary, I know I did. At one time I cleaned/replaced mine a couple of times a year.

When I put the Filter-Minder on, the filter was a used Toyota cleanable, it had been cleaned a couple of times. Ran it for ~25K mi, ~2yrs, thousands of dusty trail miles, including Lockhart Canyon, Beef Basin, Rug Road, etc. The Filter-Minder reading never changed. Last year, got a good deal on a new filter, so slapped it in, same reading, will run this one out until the gauge indicates to clean it, it will be years?

This is on my 80 with cyclonic, the point is, they are very efficient. The pic is Rug Road, ~50mi looked like that. At the end of a day like that, the tuna can will have 1/4-1/2" (~1/2 a cup?) of silt in it. If it weren't for the cyclonic that silt would be in the filter.

I don't have a dorkel, don't see the point?

Your point of knowing when to change the filter is well taken. I can't say whether or not the filter was not breathing at full efficiency only to add I swap the filter out when its caked with dust. The Filter Minder hoser pointed out and you are using sounds like the best approach for knowing when to change any air filter.

 

[NMuzj100]

If it weren't for the cyclonic that silt would be in the filter.

I bet most of it would be in the honey-comb trap in the bottom of the air box. I vacuum a good bit out each time I check the filter.

 

[hoser]

I purchased from this seller previously when they were $14 shipped anywhere in the world free, so his price has gone up, just to see if they were OEM or not.

Thanks! The seller did get back to me stating that they sold aftermarket filters. I'll steer clear and be sure I buy only OEM.

I bet most of it would be in the honey-comb trap in the bottom of the air box. I vacuum a good bit out each time I check the filter.

The two one-way rubber valves that I thought were to expel moisture I see are labeled as "dust relief valves" in the parts catalog. So the cyclonic box is partially self cleaning I suppose?

 

[moooooooo]

Thanks! The seller did get back to me stating that they sold aftermarket filters. I'll steer clear and be sure I buy only OEM.

The two one-way rubber valves that I thought were to expel moisture I see are labeled as "dust relief valves" in the parts catalog. So the cyclonic box is partially self cleaning I suppose?

When i was looking at doing an airbox mod and pulled the main body away from the guard i "discovered" the other dust trap. I didnt know it was there. Anyway i pinched the rubber to let out the dust and it was full of dead bees, flies, butterflies etc and heaps of dust. I dont know that it self cleans though.
I'll keep an eye on both traps now that i have emptied them

 

[NMuzj100]

Actually a before and after air restriction gauge reading would be a good way to test the value of snorkels, cyclonic air boxes, K&N filters, custom air tube and deck-plate air box modifications.

Note the first bulleted point in this Cummins Bulletin

http://www.donaldson.com/en/engine/support/datalibrary/053979.pdf

By changing the filter too early or too often you are allowing more dirt into the engine!

For those who prefer Amazon to ebay

Amazon.com: K&N 85-2444 Filter Minder; Screw in: Automotive

Amazon.com: Wix 24801 Air Filter Monitor Kit: Automotive

Rock Auto

RockAuto Parts Catalog - WIX 24801

 

[uHu]

Re the dust-trap, and dust relief valve:
At least for the HDJ100, there are two versions of the cyclone filter holder. The early version (98 to 00?) doesn't have that rubber valve that the later ones have.
I have the early version on my 2000, and the one with rubber valve on the 2004. Both separate out lots of dust though.

 

[Tools R Us]

Your point of knowing when to change the filter is well taken. I can't say whether or not the filter was not breathing at full efficiency only to add I swap the filter out when its caked with dust. The Filter Minder hoser pointed out and you are using sounds like the best approach for knowing when to change any air filter.

Looks dirty/caked with dust is just a visual interpretation, when checked with a gauge, the filter can be caked with dirt and have little restriction. Filters become more efficient as they collect dust, up to the point where they become to restrictive. So changing filters early is not a good thing. Until restriction becomes a problem, a visually dirty filter does absolutely no harm and is in fact a benefit.

If you measure the filter surface area, (measure one pleat X the number of pleats) and compare to other filters, Cruiser filters are usually much larger than needed. On the 80 series the stock filter has ~3 times the surface area as a K&N. The K&N engineers likely looked at the stock filter and determined that it is ridiculously oversized, so made theirs smaller. The smaller surface area must pull 3 times the airflow per square inch to flow the same volume, so the factory filter can be more a efficient filter. The stock filter is likely oversize to allow for more dust accumulation before becoming restrictive.

 

[hks3sgte]

This is definitely on my list.

 

[Tools R Us]

I bet most of it would be in the honey-comb trap in the bottom of the air box. I vacuum a good bit out each time I check the filter.

Correct, a flat panel filter that draws from the bottom is the next best thing to a cyclonic. When the shop-vac (motor) is turned off, some debris falls out of the filter, into the box, where some of it can be trapped. Vibration/airflow can cause some of to return to the filter. The advantage of the cyclonic is, a large percentage of the debris is deposited in the tuna can, where it can be removed from the system without disturbing the filter, greatly increasing filter life. It is likely only a big deal for those who wheel in dusty conditions?

 

[Tools R Us]

When i was looking at doing an airbox mod and pulled the main body away from the guard i "discovered" the other dust trap. I didnt know it was there. Anyway i pinched the rubber to let out the dust and it was full of dead bees, flies, butterflies etc and heaps of dust. I dont know that it self cleans though.
I'll keep an eye on both traps now that i have emptied them

In my experience, they don't self clean well. I remove the tuna can and clean it out often, easy deal.

 

[hoser]

Here's those dust relief valves. They were full of clumped sediment when I received it. In the last pic, you can see how the valve opens... I'm guessing when there is positive pressure in the system. There are two metal rods that keep the valve from collapsing under vacuum.

 

[DallasCrzr]

Thats pretty awesome. Id be down for the group buy since i wont be installing a snorkel or tearing out ahc any time soon and want that second battery (and filtering capacity)

 

[100 TD]

Actually a before and after air restriction gauge reading would be a good way to test the value of snorkels, cyclonic air boxes, K&N filters, custom air tube and deck-plate air box modifications.

IIRC in some markets (except USA) 98-02 FZJ's & 'UZJ100's come with a blocked air filter sensor "Sensor, Air Cleaner Warning, 89593-60040 and I expect the wiring is there ready for you to connect one of these directly into your loom.
The diesels run the 89593-60030, which is available from trademotion for $76USD

So a sensor is available, as you got yours from OZ it may have the fittings already or you would have to drill and install 2 air hose fittings into your filter housing if the attachments are not already there.
Les you would need to check your dash lights to see if you have the blocked filter light, I think Christo Slee used this lamp for something else on another project, but I don't recall if it was on a LX or LC

Pictured is the sensor on my HDJ100R (the white square unit with the 2 hoses attached)

 

[spressomon]

Warren: We (Joe @ Slee ) used the air filter dash light for my aux tank. Good idea on using it!