I have a 2002 LC. I'm probably at about 260k miles. Noticed a 3" spot under the right front for the last few weeks. Also started losing my a/c. I added a little 134a because it was low and it started working. Blew cold for a few days then hot again. I noticed some oil on the high passenger side of the condenser and decided to run some UV to look for leaks. I let it sit for several hours then took my UV light and found a puddle on top of the drier tube. Looking a little higher, I found a pin hole spraying a little refrigerant above the drier tube.
I ordered a Denso replacement through RockAuto and received it yesterday. This morning, drove up to my ramps and followed the FSM (Steps 1-4) to remove the grill, unbolted and bungeed the AT cooler, removed the horns, (condenser mounts 12mm). I loosened the upper and lower discharge tube (FSM Step 5). I used two snack bags and some masking tape to close up the port connections. I originally thought I'd be able to (7b) Lift up the condenser and remove it through the front opening but it turns out your really do need to drop it out of the space between the body frame and the radiator. By leaving the middle brackets in place, the condenser won't drop to the ground. Its very light but you don't want to risk injury to the radiator fins. I'm about to rent a vacuum pump and pickup 134a (about 38oz) and PAG 46 (replace with 1.4-1.7 oz).
The biggest challenge I had, even removing the lower pan, were the two lower bracket bolts. The lower z-brackets mount to the condenser tabs. The lower bolts are accessed between the body lateral framing. I used an 18" 3/8 socket extension to go through the lower grill opening with my 12mm socket for both bolts. You need to remove the top bracket bolt in order to allow the condenser to slide left and right because the bolts otherwise are hidden by the crossmember.
So its pouring rain now and I'm 80% done. Still have to get o-rings, vacuum, 134a refrigerant, test the system, look for leaks around fittings and replace the grill. All of the access is really straight forward. Only two sockets, a 10 and 12 were required and I used adjusting wrenches for the liquid tube connection. I left it assembled to minimize moisture intrusion.
More to come.
I ordered a Denso replacement through RockAuto and received it yesterday. This morning, drove up to my ramps and followed the FSM (Steps 1-4) to remove the grill, unbolted and bungeed the AT cooler, removed the horns, (condenser mounts 12mm). I loosened the upper and lower discharge tube (FSM Step 5). I used two snack bags and some masking tape to close up the port connections. I originally thought I'd be able to (7b) Lift up the condenser and remove it through the front opening but it turns out your really do need to drop it out of the space between the body frame and the radiator. By leaving the middle brackets in place, the condenser won't drop to the ground. Its very light but you don't want to risk injury to the radiator fins. I'm about to rent a vacuum pump and pickup 134a (about 38oz) and PAG 46 (replace with 1.4-1.7 oz).
The biggest challenge I had, even removing the lower pan, were the two lower bracket bolts. The lower z-brackets mount to the condenser tabs. The lower bolts are accessed between the body lateral framing. I used an 18" 3/8 socket extension to go through the lower grill opening with my 12mm socket for both bolts. You need to remove the top bracket bolt in order to allow the condenser to slide left and right because the bolts otherwise are hidden by the crossmember.
So its pouring rain now and I'm 80% done. Still have to get o-rings, vacuum, 134a refrigerant, test the system, look for leaks around fittings and replace the grill. All of the access is really straight forward. Only two sockets, a 10 and 12 were required and I used adjusting wrenches for the liquid tube connection. I left it assembled to minimize moisture intrusion.
More to come.
