A 2H story

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

ForealBoreal said:
I'll throw in my 2 cents just like the others.

I vote for option 3 or option 4 (i will explain) if your going to be doing a break down. Reason being, the issues you are having.

I would highly recommend you decide how much your going to throw at a 2H to get it ported, polished and rebuilt. You have to assume that the block needs to be redone if your going to go through all of this trouble to re-piston and everything. If I was going to be done this I would highly recommend getting the block looked over before you just chuck pistons in. I am assuming you are smart enough to do that.

ARP studs all the way
Gturbo all the way, you have a few options depending on your goals and boost levels. I am assuming 20-24lbs so a grunter 1 or 2 would probably have you covered.

A full proper rebuild, port and polish and all that jazz I would estimate to be around 4-5k. That is my guess, don't flame me if I am right off. But I know a full turbo piston set for a 1hz along with a rebuild kit is upwards of 2k + in Australia. Its gotta be similar with the 2H

Option 4:
I see this option being fun but expensive enough in the end to have an inferior engine in terms of performance to a 1hd-t. You could chuck in a 12h-t but you are then facing a dated engine and harder to find parts down the road. I think your good about 20lbs of boost with a gturbo on one.
Throw in a 1hd-t and a gturbo, custom plenum and a big airbox and you will be off to the races. Youll need to track down a performance clutch and a 1hz bell housing and change your input shaft on your h55f. Since you have to do that break down throw in a macnamara gear into your transfer to prolong your output shaft of your h55f and your golden.

either way you have to decide what your goals are with the truck, how long you plan on keeping it and what your budget it.
Click to expand...

Ya I hear what your saying and agree on many aspects. I am not prepared to shell out 4-5 or even 3k on this thing.

I have an engine that was running well enough prior to a leaky head gasket. Could have been a bunch of things leading to head gasket failure. I'm guessing boost and aftermarket gasket.

The truck will only see use on the couple trips a year and limited driver duty. I'm guessing 10k a year. If it lasted 10 years cool....

I've measured bores and they seem ok. I need to do better measurements though to be sure.

My budget is...
Port and polish free....
Head gasket 120
Pistons and rings... 500
Arp studs 400
Turbo rebuild....150


So for 1200 or so I'm hopefully back up and running. I hope to have better flowing head. Stronger studs and a better gasket. All those additions point to better reliability. Better pistons will help blowby and likely power too. I could leave pistons just do the other mods but I'd like to try the farmer rebuild method if nothing else to learn a few things.

As for the g turbo... Sure if it works flawlessly for a few years as I find myself short on boost. I has been running 19psi at turbo outlet for the past while. In the winter on winter fuel and cold intake temps my pump was maxed and egts less than 1200. Maybe with port work my boost will drop. Flow will go up... Temps down. Sounds easy on paper ;)



This truck has been an learning experiment from the get go. Why stop now...
 
Sounds good.

ARP studs
Port and Polish
Headgasket
Turbo piston and rings (they just have an alfin insert)
Head Gasket
Turbo rebuild or upgrade.

I think this would be fun. I am also interested in the farmer rebuild. The thought crossed my mind with my 1HZ to upgrade to turbo pistons. But I am not going to go that route at this point as I am not having any issues.

What turbo are you running?
 
Be sure to post the ARP stud part number, I cannot find it in their catalog
 
Blown head gasket explanation?

Slowerthanu said:
Be sure to post the ARP stud part number, I cannot find it in their catalog
Click to expand...

X2, I will be needing those too.

arnott1t said:
I'll try and get some tonight. On the head there are coolant passages that a blocked by both the head gasket and block. It looks to me like the gasket allowed combustion gas to reach these coolant passages. Ill see what I can find...
Click to expand...

Just my 2 cents here. Did the head you sourced come from a pre-nov '84 engine? I understand the change from sleeve to sleeveless 2H blocks occured at that period of time. The different engine style used different head gasket AND had different cooling jackets (thanks to LostMarbles and Henry-James the 47th for those infos).

Reading your post, i realize your mechanical knowledge is light years ahead of mine but I was wondering if maybe you weren't unknowignly trying to fit a older generation head onto a newer gen block...? And frankly, I don't even know if that can be done or not..

Just my $0.02

Good luck.
 
Well I was told it was from a Canadian hj60. It had the same ports as the original head that cracked up. Canadian Hj were only 86 and 87 I think... So it should be late model.... I hope...
 
Yes, '86 and '87 were the only years for HJ 60s in Canada (I think also). But who knows where that engine really originated from... I just find it odd that the water jackets wouldn't match and neither would the head gasket...
 
I just got an email back from ARP and they say they know nothing about the Toyota 2H engine so, if somebody is positive about the correct ARP part number for a head bolt kit, please post it as it will be useful to a few members here.

Thx.
 
Tapage said:
why exactly you want ARP studs in your 2H .?
Click to expand...

I will be rebuilding my 2H shortly and want to use new studs with higher tensile as I added a turbo (Turbo-Glide) and we all know the extra stress it puts on the head gasket. I will be heading your way (central & south-Am) next july and don't feel like risking blowing a head gasket in the amazon forest or something... :bang:
 
ARP number 207-4202.

It's listed. You need 2 kits for a 3b and 3 for a 2h. The studs need some trimming and rocker girdle mods but should be fine.
Looked like 130 a set for the kit.
 
arnott1t said:
ARP number 207-4202.

It's listed. You need 2 kits for a 3b and 3 for a 2h. The studs need some trimming and rocker girdle mods but should be fine.
Looked like 130 a set for the kit.
Click to expand...

I had seen that number that Greg posted but I had no clue head studs were the same for 3Bs and 2Hs. Are you positive they are?

Thanks.
 
A price of $390 for head studs would have me questioning there cost benefit. Are they really needed? Will they really allow the HG to last longer? I have a feeling the issue with the last HG was (if I read right) that you did not use a OEM HG. Toyotas more than any other engines I have worked on are hard on non OEM HG's and I'm not sure why.

I would think getting a set of new OEM head bolts if needed would be sufficient for 19psi.
 
arnott1t said:
ARP number 207-4202.

It's listed. You need 2 kits for a 3b and 3 for a 2h. The studs need some trimming and rocker girdle mods but should be fine.
Looked like 130 a set for the kit.
Click to expand...

Toyota part number for 3B head bolts:

90910-02046

And for 2H:

90910-02046 (same) for 08/1980 to 03/82

and 90910-02070 for 04/82 on

Of course, the 2Hs in Canadian cruisers fall into the second category which would mean their head bolt part No. would be different then the 3Bs. I do not know how or even IF they are physically different but there must be a reason why Toyota switched to a different number during the course of production.

Wheelingnoob said:
A price of $390 for head studs would have me questioning there cost benefit. Are they really needed? Will they really allow the HG to last longer? I have a feeling the issue with the last HG was (if I read right) that you did not use a OEM HG. Toyotas more than any other engines I have worked on are hard on non OEM HG's and I'm not sure why.

I would think getting a set of new OEM head bolts if needed would be sufficient for 19psi.
Click to expand...

I would be curious to know how much Mr. Toyoda is asking for his original head bolt set...
 
Wheelingnoob said:
A price of $390 for head studs would have me questioning there cost benefit. Are they really needed? Will they really allow the HG to last longer? I have a feeling the issue with the last HG was (if I read right) that you did not use a OEM HG. Toyotas more than any other engines I have worked on are hard on non OEM HG's and I'm not sure why.

I would think getting a set of new OEM head bolts if needed would be sufficient for 19psi.
Click to expand...

I'm with you in this one... Also, it's worth noting that people have been boosting over 2bar with stock headgasket and bolts with no related issues....
 
Have they been boosting over 2 bar on a 2h? From my reading I hadn't seen many over 15psi. Tapage was the only one up that high I thought. Could be others.. I just don't know any. The 2h oem gasket is not mls. It is not like the 3b gasket.

The measured my head bolts and they specd the same as the measurements Greg has. As noted in his thread takes some mods to studs as rocker girdle but that's it.


Are head bolts worth it. That's the tricky question. They certainly wouldn't hurt... Are they higher tensile then oem likely.


My concern for my head gasket is it being properly supported during load. My theory is that the head bolts stretch a bit and weaken gasket support. That with higher cylinder pressures and pow its done. Higher torque on the arp as well as a stronger material would better support the gasket I think.

It's 400 bucks. If it blew and I didn't have them. I'd cry... If I blew it and I did I'd cry... So what says the group. It would likely delay assembly a month. Just to save some dough for them. Remember pistons are on the table as well.

Clean the wee out of head bolts and block thread. Lube the threads. Torque it up. Heat cycle once and re torque. Last time I wire wheeled the bolts and air blew the block... That's it...

Or just slap it back together.
 
So we need to standardize some terminology here. Pressure, we have Bar absolute, Bar gauge and psi. Can we use one just to keep it all clear.

I do not know of anyone running a 2H at 2bar (gauge 29psi). But it would be cool to see how a well built (alfin pistons) and all would handle it. I would be that the stock head bolts would handle it but maybe worth the pice of mind to know the studs are there. If you do plan to boost that much I would put the extra effort into a block deck and head so you could run a metal head gasket. I can't see the stock fiber one taking that pressure for long.

In the end if you are going for ultimate power it maybe easier to get a 12HT or 1HD. I hate to suggest that though since i think stuff like this is fun even if the final result is not 100% what you where looking for. Stuff like this is fun though and so is breaking new ground or the path less taken.
 
Wheelingnoob said:
So we need to standardize some terminology here. Pressure, we have Bar absolute, Bar gauge and psi. Can we use one just to keep it all clear.

I do not know of anyone running a 2H at 2bar (gauge 29psi). But it would be cool to see how a well built (alfin pistons) and all would handle it. I would be that the stock head bolts would handle it but maybe worth the pice of mind to know the studs are there. If you do plan to boost that much I would put the extra effort into a block deck and head so you could run a metal head gasket. I can't see the stock fiber one taking that pressure for long.

In the end if you are going for ultimate power it maybe easier to get a 12HT or 1HD. I hate to suggest that though since i think stuff like this is fun even if the final result is not 100% what you where looking for. Stuff like this is fun though and so is breaking new ground or the path less taken.
Click to expand...


here's a video of 12h-t with over 2 bar boost http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqNHfgX5ywU... Also the same guy had 2H earlier with similar boost figures (and the same ip) and he has had no problems with headbolts afaik....
 
blis said:
here's a video of 12h-t with over 2 bar boost http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqNHfgX5ywU... Also the same guy had 2H earlier with similar boost figures (and the same ip) and he has had no problems with headbolts afaik....
Click to expand...

That is wicked that someone went up to 30psi on a 2H.

Yes lets stick to PSI gauge... or mm mercury....j/k

The MLS head gasket would be cool too. I had posted that as an option at the start but we haven't really discussed. Its about 350-500 by the time its all said and done. Is that a worthy mod?


After a plan is decided I'd like to get into the specifics of the port and polish. And what, if anything, to do with my valves.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

mcmlxxxv
2H Muffler ?
Replies
7
Views
1K
mcmlxxxv
mcmlxxxv
mcmlxxxv
2H low fuel economy
Replies
16
Views
2K
mcmlxxxv
mcmlxxxv
cruiser86
  • Question Question
2h fuel bleed screw leaks
Replies
14
Views
1K
sodafeld1
S
Rackety
Help identify 2H early vs late type
Replies
1
Views
410
duncanrm
duncanrm

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom