99 LX470 Outer Tie Rod Ends (1 Viewer)

[JOSHD]

Hey normally threads are lefty loosey, rightey tightey but are the jam nuts reverse thread? I think I've been fighting myself for the last 20 minutes. Plan to pick up and actual 25mm and 27mm wrench tomorrow instead of trying to use crescents and pipe wrenches.

 

[flintknapper]

Tie rod ends and jam nuts are both right hand thread BUT the two tie rod ends are 'sided' (left and right)

 

[JOSHD]

Tie rod ends and jam nuts are both right hand thread BUT the two tie rod ends are 'sided' (left and right)

Okay, thank you. So the jam nut still needs to go rightey-tightey further onto the inner tie rod to separate from the outer tie rod that im trying to remove. Guess I need some heat and maybe a bigger purse to hit it with.

 

[flintknapper]

Okay, thank you. So the jam nut still needs to go rightey-tightey further onto the inner tie rod to separate from the outer tie rod that im trying to remove. Guess I need some heat and maybe a bigger purse to hit it with.

Yes Sir.

Expect them to be stubborn. They tend to 'weld' themselves to the threads (via corrosion) on most vehicles. I put a liberal amount of anti-seize on my new ones as the old ones nearly killed me trying to loosen them.

 

[2001LC]

I typically use two very large crescents wrenches, for the leverage. Trick is to get the crescents wrench on very sung.

BTW: I've seen two in a row, 555 TRE on different rig, that have gone bad. Yet the same rigs had factory TRE still on other side, in good condition.

 

[JOSHD]

I typically use two very large crescents wrenches, for the leverage. Trick is to get the crescents wrench on very sung.

BTW: I've seen two in a row, 555 TRE on different rig, that have gone bad. Yet the same rigs had factory TRE still on other side, in good condition.

Both of my factory have torn boots and no grease on the inside. I'm gonna play with fire and use the MevoTech Supremes. Im also going to replace the lower ball joints with MT Supremes because of torn boots. Hopefully they will last as long as I keep the truck.

 

[HWY14South]

I typically use two very large crescents wrenches, for the leverage. Trick is to get the crescents wrench on very sung.

BTW: I've seen two in a row, 555 TRE on different rig, that have gone bad. Yet the same rigs had factory TRE still on other side, in good condition.

damn hate to read that. I just installed 555 TREs on both sides. Had to remove the Rack and one outer was bad so figured might as well get both. crap

 

[bigredmachine]

heat will also eb your friend with trying to crack them loose, heat and soak in your favorite rust penetrant

 

[2001LC]

I use the 555 UBJ & LBJ, because a favorite in mud for years. I've not seen one of those fail. But haven't enough miles on any I've installed to make call. But I can say the fitment is not perfect. 555 LBJ come up ~2-3mm too high in the LCA, when press all the way until to the stop. This reduce the gap between LCA & Knuckle. It also has the locking C-clip sitting high. Where factory LBJ C-clip is flush with LCA.

So if someone finds better than 555, I try them. The very best Ball joints are OEM. But $500 vs $50, WELL!.

555

555

New LCA/LBJ

 

[JOSHD]

Okay. I got them off. Passenger came off easy once I had a 25mm and 27mm open end wrench. The driver side was a bitch. Required liberal amounts of heat, hammer, and lube but finally broke free.

Any way, does anyone know the part number for the jam nut? It’s basically round now.

 

[flintknapper]

Okay. I got them off. Passenger came off easy once I had a 25mm and 27mm open end wrench. The driver side was a bitch. Required liberal amounts of heat, hammer, and lube but finally broke free.

Any way, does anyone know the part number for the jam nut? It’s basically round now.

90170-20003

 

[zhloea]

Yes Sir.

Expect them to be stubborn. They tend to 'weld' themselves to the threads (via corrosion) on most vehicles. I put a liberal amount of anti-seize on my new ones as the old ones nearly killed me trying to loosen them.

Sorry man, I just see this. my jam nuts seems impossible to be removed normally. Since I have a new rack and TREs in hand, could I just simply cut them off with grinder?

 

[2020 Rocks]

Sorry man, I just see this. my jam nuts seems impossible to be removed normally. Since I have a new rack and TREs in hand, could I just simply cut them off with grinder?

You could if all else fails. Have you tried heat? Heat the nut with a plumber's torch, then shoot it with PB Blaster, then give it a turn. In your other post a short while ago, the part you circled in blue is where you place a plumber's wrench, jam the end of it on the floor or a jack, then adjustable wrench on the lock nut.

 

[flintknapper]

Sorry man, I just see this. my jam nuts seems impossible to be removed normally. Since I have a new rack and TREs in hand, could I just simply cut them off with grinder?

^^^^

Yes. Many folks end up doing just that.

 

[2001LC]

Sorry man, I just see this. my jam nuts seems impossible to be removed normally. Since I have a new rack and TREs in hand, could I just simply cut them off with grinder?

I use two very large (18" or longer) monkey wrenches, after letting penetrating oil soak in overnight. You only need LH TRE off to remove rack. Lock nut can stay on. You can also add a cheater bar on end of MK wrench, and get a heck of a lot of leverage.

 

[zhloea]

^^^^

Yes. Many folks end up doing just that.

I use two very large (18" or longer) monkey wrenches, after letting penetrating oil soak in overnight. You only need LH TRE off to remove rack. Lock nut can stay on. You can also add a cheater bar on end of MK wrench, and get a heck of a lot of leverage.

View attachment 2654488

Thanks!

The only drawback of cut it off will be can not count the outer TREs turns anymore (if you have a better idea to do this), and I measured the toe-in, seems there is no toe-in at all, the front width and back width between the front tires almost same...

 

[flintknapper]

Thanks!

The only drawback of cut it off will be can not count the outer TREs turns anymore (if you have a better idea to do this), and I measured the toe-in, seems there is no toe-in at all, the front width and back width between the front tires almost same...

Toe in can be hard to measure accurately as it's only about 1/8th inch. But that deals with 'alignment' after the steering rack has been installed and won't be used to gauge how evenly the Tie Rod Ends are extended on each side.

I don't advise 'counting turns' since the TRE's you use to replace the old ones might be a different length (I.E. 555's vs. OEM).

Instead I would take measurements of each side BEFORE removal. Measure from the center of the TRE stud (on the steering knuckle) to a fixed point on the steering rack and then install the new ones to match that.

 

[zhloea]

Toe in can be hard to measure accurately as it's only about 1/8th inch. But that deals with 'alignment' after the steering rack has been installed and won't be used to gauge how evenly the Tie Rod Ends are extended on each side.

I don't advise 'counting turns' since the TRE's you use to replace the old ones might be a different length (I.E. 555's vs. OEM).

Instead I would take measurements of each side BEFORE removal. Measure from the center of the TRE stud (on the steering knuckle) to a fixed point on the steering rack and then install the new ones to match that.

Thanks, man, I really glad that I asked you about this before I cut off those guys...

 

[zhloea]

Did not have good luck with all these pipe wrenches and torch...but (unfortunately) the grinder does works...

 

[zhloea]

^^^^

Yes. Many folks end up doing just that.

I just measured both end lengths, then what time you think is the best time to center the new rack? after putting it back in the car or before we put it back?

I think it should be after putting it back because I assume there will be some movement when we install it back