'99 LC Won't Start, No Codes

[Neuner]

Can't get my wife's '99 Land Cruiser to start. About 290k miles, we've only had it a little over a year.

* Battery is charged and no check engine light.
* Tried giving it gas while starting hoping it was the IAC but that didn't do anything. Plugged in my OBDII reader anyways, but it said it was not able to connect to the ECM which is really strange. It's connected several times before.
* There appeared to be an odd repeating lower frequency hum while trying to start. Interval of it in and out about every second. hmm----hmm---hmm--- Is the best I can describe, don't know if that is normal or not, fuel pump?
* Took a video of the dash while trying to start if that helps:

It had slowly gotten a little harder for her to start it over the past couple of months.

Only thing coming to mind is the fuel pump or something's happened with the ECM.

Sorry this is so general but not sure where or what to test next. Thank you for the help.

 

[jLB]

One possiblity:

My immobilizer fix

I got the famous crank but not start immobilizer problem. I replaced the 20A EFI fuse with a 30A fuse and it started right away. However, it was a temporary fix. I had the same problem again 4 days later. This is what I did to get the engine started. It has been working with no problem for...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Neuner]

One possiblity:

BOOM! Yes, thank you! Fuse wasn't blown but I did the relay jump wire anyway to test it out and it started. Now I'll need to move on to the next test. This is awesome to have it narrowed down.

With 5 older vehicles to keep running, I'm always in a whirlwind and this helps a lot.

 

[jLB]

And the companion thread ( @medtro ‘s kit) :

EFI Relay Bypass Kit (Immobilizer Fix) for UZJ100/LX470

This bypass kit bypasses the bad EFI relay circuit in the fuse box so that the immobilizer system gets adequate power supply for starting the car. I made this for myself after my new 30A replacement fuse - initial fix for crank but not start problem, failed to start after 4 days. Some members...

forum.ih8mud.com

I tend to keep one of these kits in my road trip bag. I’ve never needed it (so far)

 

[Neuner]

I tend to keep one of these kits in my road trip bag. I’ve never needed it (so far)

My old jeep that I swapped a newer engine into is the same. The Auto Shutoff Relay has stranded me several times and was hard to narrow down initially. Now that I carry a spare, it hasn't happened since.

 

[dtlx]

Mine has done this twice then eventually started both times without any other intervention by me, but only twice out of my year so far of ownership...

 

[Neuner]

$163 for for the relay and it's about 3-4 weeks out per the dealer. Internet search brings up questionable sites offering it for sale with little to no info.

Reluctant to wait that long to find out it still doesn't work but I've read where even though the relay tested fine, it was the culprit.

Where's the best place to get a direct replacement?

I don't mine building the harness myself with the micro relay but would getting the OEM relay replacement be better?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Where's the best place to get a direct replacement?

The only options are get the quick fix bypass from @medtro or buy a new fuse box. The EFI relay is not available separately via Toyota.

 

[medtro]

$163 for for the relay and it's about 3-4 weeks out per the dealer. Internet search brings up questionable sites offering it for sale with little to no info.

Reluctant to wait that long to find out it still doesn't work but I've read where even though the relay tested fine, it was the culprit.

Where's the best place to get a direct replacement?

I don't mine building the harness myself with the micro relay but would getting the OEM relay replacement be better?

It looks like your CEL is not illuminated with key at ON position. I think it is a fuse box issue, not a relay issue.

 

[jLB]

$163 for for the relay and it's about 3-4 weeks out per the dealer. Internet search brings up questionable sites offering it for sale with little to no info.

Reluctant to wait that long to find out it still doesn't work but I've read where even though the relay tested fine, it was the culprit.

Where's the best place to get a direct replacement?

I don't mine building the harness myself with the micro relay but would getting the OEM relay replacement be better?

My understanding of the issue, is that the fuse box (or junction box) under the hood is the true source of the problem, not the OE relay or fuse. The official Toyota/Lexus fix is to replace that box, which varies by year, costs $700+, and is NLA for some years. @medtro ’s work around, isn’t quite as pretty, but it does resolve the issue for $135. Or you can try to build your own version of Medtro’s kit, and figure out which “bits and pieces” work better than others. For me, throwing a Medtro kit in my bag, was the quick & easy solution, even though none of my three currently have the issue, and it made the most sense to me.

 

[Neuner]

It looks like your CEL is not illuminated with key at ON position. I think it is a fuse box issue, not a relay issue.

I was going by your thread where you used a Bosch relay instead, bypassing the fuse box. I have one being shipped to me but I'd like to try the OEM relay first. Can you help me with the connections?

You detail [Terminal A to 20A inline fuse to 87 of Bosch relay, Terminal F to 30, Terminal C to 85, Terminal D to 86, No connection for terminals B and E]

Does Terminal A go to E on the OEM relay? And the rest just line up with their original?

Thanks for the help in this.

 

[medtro]

Yes.
Yes.

 

[Neuner]

Unfortunately that did not work. So I take it that I have a bad relay.

There are some listed online, but the sources seem odd. There are a couple on Ebay. Are they legit?

I may just wait until the Tyco / TE relay comes and see if that's the permanent solution.

 

[medtro]

What is not working? Does it crank? If your connections are correct, then it could be your "A" slot is bad. Try connect the fuse holder lead to battery.

 

[Neuner]

What is not working? Does it crank? If your connections are correct, then it could be your "A" slot is bad. Try connect the fuse holder lead to battery.

It does the same, cranks but does not start. I will give that a try.

 

[Neuner]

Try connect the fuse holder lead to battery.

Did that and it worked, engine started.

Ok, so now I take it that I need to connect the E terminal straight to a power source. I'd rather not have a wire coming off of the battery terminal if I can help it. Is there someplace closer, better, within the fuse / relay box that I could tap?

 

[jLB]

Is there someplace closer, better, within the fuse / relay box that I could tap?

I wonder if you could tap an unused circuit like the AHC fuse location?

 

[Neuner]

I wonder if you could tap an unused circuit like the AHC fuse location?

Great idea. Unfortunately I couldn't pull any voltage off of that one or of the unused fuse locations. Guess they didn't provide the taps for the models that didn't use them?

Didn't like it but went ahead and tapped the battery terminal. Not pretty but all works really well and the engine starts right up.

OEM relay fits under the lid, so I'm happy I can re-use it. Connections seemed solid as I was forcing the wires around so I hope my wife no longer has any issues with this.

Thank you for help, you saved me a lot of time and money!

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Great idea. Unfortunately I couldn't pull any voltage off of that one or of the unused fuse locations. Guess they didn't provide the taps for the models that didn't use them?

Didn't like it but went ahead and tapped the battery terminal. Not pretty but all works really well and the engine starts right up.

OEM relay fits under the lid, so I'm happy I can re-use it. Connections seemed solid as I was forcing the wires around so I hope my wife no longer has any issues with this.

Thank you for help, you saved me a lot of time and money!

View attachment 3173612View attachment 3173613

Personally, I would not consider this a permanent fix but rather a temporary solution to an obvious problem for which a permanent solution exists (buy a new fuse box). @medtro ‘s approach can be a permanent fix, but your’s tapping straight to the battery is not, IMO. I think you’d be better off going through the fusible link for power rather than straight to the battery. BUT, I’m not an electrician, so….

 

[Neuner]

I think you’d be better off going through the fusible link for power rather than straight to the battery. BUT, I’m not an electrician, so….

I have a 20A fuse inline (yellow) as shown in the pic. This is between the battery and Terminal E. I'm going to consider this permanent for myself.