'99 LC Locked Axle into '01 LX Swap (16 Viewers)

[saucebox]

I’m not sure what you mean by “Toyota rotary tool”
Also the 99 axle has some kind of wire harness on it. It pretty long and ends with two big plugs and two smaller plugs branch off of it in the middle. I’m not sure if I can splice into that or If I have to go from closer to the axle.
how much would you sell your harness for if it will work with what I got?

I used the factory harness from the axle all the way to the big plug—IIRC it runs out of length somewhere around the passenger front door. Mine's mostly routed like it would have been in the original 1998. I removed the branches...I think those were for the wheel speed sensors? In that harness you'll also see a small breather hose. Keep that, or create a similar line to a location somewhere high. Disassembly is easy, just remove the taped ends and then the plastic loom is easy to move around.

I should add that I just added the locking third member to my 2003 axle. The donor locking axle was rusty as all hell and I didn't want to deal with that.

I managed to find the other side of the big plug at a junkyard and made a harness that connected from underneath the body, up through the grommet in the passenger side floorboard, and the Slee CPU is tucked up behind the kick panel.

The big plug is 11086 (90980-11086). To DIY the harness, take the Toyota number to Ballenger Motorsports (call/email) and they can give you the right part numbers to terminate the DIY portion of the harness. It's not necessary really but it's nice to have factory waterproof connectors underneath. You could also just cut the big plug off and match up a big Deutsch connector, or whatever your favorite flavor of waterproof connection might be. You could also just buy the pigtail from Toyota (I think, haven't checked) and splice from there.

My last Ballenger receipt says that I spent $23 on these (QTY 25 each):
CONN-00145 wire seals
CONN-100069 terminals
CONN-100550 cavity plugs (for the unused parts of the big plug)
CONN-100800 female terminals

I used the factory magic dial—all the Slee CPU needs is two wires from that switch to connect to the two orange wires noted. It doesn't matter which is which, the CPU just detects that a switch has closed then performs its function.

HTH

 

[aaronrules]

Sorry, typing on phone sucks! I meant if you are not planning to use the Toyota rotary switch, then just buy something off the shelf that comes pre-wired to plug into your locker on one end and then terminates into a flip switch on the other end.

Ultimate Toyota E-Locker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off-Road

<h2>Ultimate Toyota E-Locker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off-Road</h2> <p>Toyota locking axles are great choices for axle swaps. 8" E-locker differentials are strong and versatile. Wiring a Toyota E-locker differential to work outside of its donor vehicle is possible but not as simple as...

www.lowrangeoffroad.com

If your locker comes with a wire harness, you will see that there are two plugs going into the rear locker: 1 larger plug operates the locker motor, 2 smaller plug (one 2 wires) goes to the "transfer-switch". This second pair actually provides 12v once the locker is fully locked and can be used to sense when to stop providing current to the locker itself.
Here's a picture of the transfer switch:View attachment 2691130

Now, if you want to use Slee locking CPU, then you will want to cut off the harness at some point and then splice it into the Slee board as described in the instructions below. The orange cables from the Slee circuit board connect to the rotary switch. @saucebox has also wired this in his truck, I am sure he can share some insights too!


View attachment 2691129

View attachment 2691131


@sleeoffroad is great in answering any questions you may have.

I used the factory harness from the axle all the way to the big plug—IIRC it runs out of length somewhere around the passenger front door. Mine's mostly routed like it would have been in the original 1998. I removed the branches...I think those were for the wheel speed sensors? In that harness you'll also see a small breather hose. Keep that, or create a similar line to a location somewhere high. Disassembly is easy, just remove the taped ends and then the plastic loom is easy to move around.

I should add that I just added the locking third member to my 2003 axle. The donor locking axle was rusty as all hell and I didn't want to deal with that.

I managed to find the other side of the big plug at a junkyard and made a harness that connected from underneath the body, up through the grommet in the passenger side floorboard, and the Slee CPU is tucked up behind the kick panel.

The big plug is 11086 (90980-11086). To DIY the harness, take the Toyota number to Ballenger Motorsports (call/email) and they can give you the right part numbers to terminate the DIY portion of the harness. It's not necessary really but it's nice to have factory waterproof connectors underneath. You could also just cut the big plug off and match up a big Deutsch connector, or whatever your favorite flavor of waterproof connection might be. You could also just buy the pigtail from Toyota (I think, haven't checked) and splice from there.

My last Ballenger receipt says that I spent $23 on these (QTY 25 each):
CONN-00145 wire seals
CONN-100069 terminals
CONN-100550 cavity plugs (for the unused parts of the big plug)
CONN-100800 female terminals

I used the factory magic dial—all the Slee CPU needs is two wires from that switch to connect to the two orange wires noted. It doesn't matter which is which, the CPU just detects that a switch has closed then performs its function.

HTH

Fantastic replies guys! Is the wiring doable with the axle installed?

I emailed Low Range asking about that harness and if it would work for my situation, they said it would NOT work and they do not have anything that will work for my application.

I have the Slee CPU and stared at that picture and my axle...then decided to walk away for a day LOL. I am going to use the entire rear axle from the 99 just to make things easier, and I don't mind wiring. I just mind understanding WHERE do I splice into the harness for the Slee CPU to go into the switch that I am going to be using? I understand I will be running extra wires up into the dash to the switch from where ever I splice into the harness, and to be honest, I'm going to keep it all simple with any and all connections. They will be tight and will hold up, but I don't want to over complicate the whole situation with extra plugs and whatnot

This is the switch I will be using to go along with the Eaton locker that will be installed in my front diff:

CH4x4 Dual Push Switch for Toyota – Front & Rear Lock Symbol – CH4X4 Industries

www.ch4x4.com

 

[saucebox]

Fantastic replies guys! Is the wiring doable with the axle installed?

Yep, easy. I never moved my rear axle.

For the switch, just splice something that connects to the two orange wires when the switch is closed. You could mock that up on a bench to figure out which terminals you need.

 

[savirc]

Sorry, typing on phone sucks! I meant if you are not planning to use the Toyota rotary switch, then just buy something off the shelf that comes pre-wired to plug into your locker on one end and then terminates into a flip switch on the other end.

Ultimate Toyota E-Locker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off-Road

<h2>Ultimate Toyota E-Locker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off-Road</h2> <p>Toyota locking axles are great choices for axle swaps. 8" E-locker differentials are strong and versatile. Wiring a Toyota E-locker differential to work outside of its donor vehicle is possible but not as simple as...

www.lowrangeoffroad.com

If your locker comes with a wire harness, you will see that there are two plugs going into the rear locker: 1 larger plug operates the locker motor, 2 smaller plug (one 2 wires) goes to the "transfer-switch". This second pair actually provides 12v once the locker is fully locked and can be used to sense when to stop providing current to the locker itself.
Here's a picture of the transfer switch:View attachment 2691130

Now, if you want to use Slee locking CPU, then you will want to cut off the harness at some point and then splice it into the Slee board as described in the instructions below. The orange cables from the Slee circuit board connect to the rotary switch. @saucebox has also wired this in his truck, I am sure he can share some insights too!


View attachment 2691129

View attachment 2691131


@sleeoffroad is great in answering any questions you may have.

Please note, I made that drawing/diagram it's not from slee. Warning if you follow my diagram and use the rotary switch it will be reversed.

 

[bgolf247]

Fantastic replies guys! Is the wiring doable with the axle installed?

I emailed Low Range asking about that harness and if it would work for my situation, they said it would NOT work and they do not have anything that will work for my application.

I have the Slee CPU and stared at that picture and my axle...then decided to walk away for a day LOL. I am going to use the entire rear axle from the 99 just to make things easier, and I don't mind wiring. I just mind understanding WHERE do I splice into the harness for the Slee CPU to go into the switch that I am going to be using? I understand I will be running extra wires up into the dash to the switch from where ever I splice into the harness, and to be honest, I'm going to keep it all simple with any and all connections. They will be tight and will hold up, but I don't want to over complicate the whole situation with extra plugs and whatnot

This is the switch I will be using to go along with the Eaton locker that will be installed in my front diff:

CH4x4 Dual Push Switch for Toyota – Front & Rear Lock Symbol – CH4X4 Industries

www.ch4x4.com

I am in the process of doing this right now as well and I just got the same answer from low range. They just don't know what they are talking about. It will work but their "sensor" plug is wrong for the LC axle plug. I just bought from 12voltguy and he spent a day working with me to find the right plug for the sensor so he has that now. I can take a picture of it when I get home.

Part number for the connector you need to replace on lowrange would be this one 90980-11156: Amazon product ASIN B077RJMNMJ
My understanding is you don't need that Slee computer.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Please note, I made that drawing/diagram it's not from slee. Warning if you follow my diagram and use the rotary switch it will be reversed.

Thanks for pointing that out. My apologies for tagging it incorrectly.