'98 4Runner Steering Issues: New Rack or ITRE's and Rack Bushings? (1 Viewer)

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Hey guys, I recently purchased a 1998 4runner SR5 3.4 4x4 to replace my 1994 Land Cruiser (better gas mileage, lower miles, cheaper price!!)

Any way, the truck is in GREAT shape, just 150,000 on her, New Tires, runs strong, Timing belt and water pump DONE, clean interior, etc....

I got it for a great price knowing id need to fix a few little things.

I need new front Brake Rotors, New Shocks, and the problem at hand, I need to fix the steering.

The 4runner has a bit of play in the steering, and a slight pop when you move the steering wheel back and forth. On braking, I have a pretty good wobble, partially because the brake rotors are warped, and obviously, partially because I either have a bad Inner Tie Rod, or a bad Steering rack. The truck tracks straight, and drives good, just feels a little unsettled on the highway. The front shocks are blown all to hell..

Now I have been doing some reading to aid in my diagnosis, and this is what I know about my truck so far:
1. The Bushings that hold the rack to the truck are tired, I can see deflection when I move the wheel back and forth on the big bushing that wraps around the rack and pinion on the passenger side. Obviously, that's not a big deal, I can get a Bushing Kit for about $25.00 bucks, Poly or Rubber. What do you guys prefer? Poly bushings or OEM Rubber bushings? Raybestos makes a kit for $25.00 but Ihave seen tons of others as well. What is everyone's favorite?

2. The Outer Tie Rod Ends are brand new on both sides.

3. The Tires are Brand new Goodyear Tracker 2 265/70/16 All terrains and are properly balanced. Brand spanking new.. blue lettering and all....

4. WHen I lift the truck up and try to move the passenger side wheel back and forth, I don't feel any play, leading me to believe the Inner tie rod on the side doesn't have any issues.

5. When I do the same thing on the driver side, that is where I feel the clunk/pop/play. NOW, I cant tell whether it is the Inner Tie Rod, or whether it is that Bearing(I think it's a roller bearing), or whatever it is where you have the adjustment on the racks that I have seen in write-ups. I had found a good write up on Ih8mud I believe but my computer died and I lost it and for some reason cant seem to find it. ANYWAY, when I have someone move the wheel back and forth, and I pull the ITRE boot back, I can see the rod having play, and actually not only moving in and out, but up and down. Now, could this be adjustment with that big adjustment bolt? Or could it be the inner rod end? OR is do I need a full steering rack? My mechanic seemed to think I would probably need a rack. Video of this below.

6. My steering rack does NOT LEAK. I don't have any fluid in the boots, etc....

7. My front shocks are blown all to hell, so I am ordering KYB MonoMax Heavy duty Shocks for the Front and Rear. $220.00 from Amazon.

8. My Rotors are so warped that I would imagine they are throwing it a little off balance, but that fix is obviously no big deal :D

Ok, so I will be getting Rotors, Pads and Shocks obviously.
Now for the steering I already KNOW I need:
1. Steering Rack Bushings
2. PROBABLY new Inner Tie Rods (ill do both while im at it.)

What I am trying to figure out is if this play can be adjusted out, or if I need to buy a new assembly for that adjustment nut, or if I need to just buy a whole new rack.

Here is the video.


Any help is appreciated, I'm ready to order parts and get this thing fixed. Like I said the tires are brand new, so I want to make sure I don't destroy them :D

Thanks Guys,
Brian.
 
I must first say I love my 3rd gen. Now I would suggest you go ahead and plan on doing the bushings and a set of new ITRE's. At the very least they will be out of the way if the rack is bad. Before you jump into the rack I would also get the wheel bearing squared away too.

On the brakes check out the tundra upgrade. If you have the tri-spokes then look at the 199 option. The tundra rotors are significantly heavier and are less prone to warping. I did the 231 upgrade on mine.

One other thing to look at is the LBJs. They can fail and are good to have on the list if you are doing shocks and other front end work anyway.

We also need to see some pictures of this new ride.
 
X2 on the tundra brakes, also double check the adjustment on the rears.

I ended up replacing my rack for the up and down movement like that after years of abuse. If you plan to buy a rack soon, don't waste money on the inner tie rods because the new rack should come with them. I know inners from the dealer are at least $60 or so a piece.
 
I agree with jynx replacing the steering rack bushing as they are most likely gone if they are OEM. You will be surprise to see how much your rack will move if you are looking at the rack while someone else have the truck started and then turning the steering wheel from side to side. You are lucky that you don't have a leaking steering like I did and had to replace it. So yeah, start with the easy stuff first like the bushing, then replace your shocks. I would recommend ordering Bilstein 5100s all around just so you have the option to lift the 4runner later. I order all my stuff from Wheeler's Offroad and they great to work with.
 
No pictures yet but they will be up soon!!! I ended up ordering a good onslaught of new parts to get her going right!!

some parts are already here, the rest are on their way!!!

KYB Monomax Shocks front and rear
Energy Suspension Graphite Impregnated Steering Rack Bushings
OEM Toyota Steering Rack w/ Inner Tie Rod Ends
OEM Toyota Lower Ball Joints
Daystar Rear Coil Spacers

and now just to find the best price on some Tundra Calipers and Rotors and this 4Runner will be Good to GO!!!

oh yea.. and a new Fan Clutch... Im actually pretty stoked to get this fixed... I'm turning a SOLID 19mpg Highway, 17mpg City with the AC running and running 80mph on the highway... Im excited to see the improvement once the fan isn't turning hard at all times....
 
I got the KYB Monomax Heavy Duty shocks for $220 shipped on amazon for all four corners
OEM Steering rack with new ITREs for $530 shipped
OEM LBJs for $170 shipped ...
Energy Suspension rack bushings for $20 shipped....
Stupid Daystar rear coil spacers were $40... but I just cant stand that sag.....

Ive been looking at local salvagers for Tundra calipers...

So if I have the Double Three spoke wheels, which I do, I should be looking at the smaller Tundra brakes??? will the others not clear??
 
If you have the split 3 spoke wheels you need to go for the 199 mm calipers. The 231 mm ones will hit without a small spacer. I have seen folks grind the back I'd their wheels but to me that is a major no-no.

The 199s are more than adequate for out little rigs. If I hadn't swapped to a set of 5 spoke later model wheels I would have went with the 199s. The beef is the rotors and pads. The rotors are nearly a half inch thicker and the pads have moderately more area, but the thicker rotor is what helps combat the warping issue that a number of 3rd gen owners suffer from.

I got my calipers and pads from NAPA and my stoptech slotted rotors from Autoanything. Make sure to put a little blue loctite on those caliper bolts when you put it all back together.... just trust me on that one.

Sounds like a nice list of parts. Look forward to seeing the build up.
 
For steering do this as well... http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161689

You can easily check the severity of your column slop by holding the steering shaft next to the firewall and turning the steering wheel slightly.

This is a must for any 3rd gen owner with sloppy steering. Fixed all my steering problems that were still present after replacing inner/outer tie rods.
 
On the driver's side of the steering rack, near the end, there is a preload adjustment device. Mine was loose and this mimicked a bad inner TRE - just like your video showed. Slop in this spring-loaded device allows the end of the rack shaft (and the TRE) to move up and down when you wiggle the wheel.

I adjusted this preload device, and it removed the clunk and slop. The ITRE on the driver's side was fine. Not sure where I saw the writeup on it, but I sure wouldn't weld the slip joint until you did this first. I also replaced my sloppy OEM rubber bushings with poly (Energy Suspension) and the truck handles nicely.
 
What years did 199 brakes come on? All I can seem to find are years for 231
 
I think the cut off was 2001 on the 199s, so I would probably search for a 2000 model to make sure you get the right parts. The caliper will be a S13WE model, The 231s are 13WL.

Here is one of the most comprehensive threads on the 3rd gen brake upgrades that I have found: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ements-231mm-13wl-tundra-calipers-rotors.html

Also here is a link to a caliper at NAPA, note near the bottom where it says "w/casting S13WE" : http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...-R-Frt-Eclipse-Remfd/_/R-CAJLE3184_0314779924

If you call a parts store and ask and can tell them that you want the S13WE casting, they can usually get you what you want. The guy at NAPA where I got mine was able to sort it out pretty easy after I told him the casting number.

Hope that helps

Also, the rotors are the same for either size caliper.
 
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SO im working on this steering rack and cannot find a good write up, obviously, some of it is self explanatory, but im trying to figure out which bolts to disconnect to disconnect the steering column from the rack... im also trying to figure out what the best way is to go about removing the poser steering lines.... access to them in place is extremely tight.....

Problem two... I tore a boot on a perfectly good, 555, outer tie rod end.... im trying to find another out tie rod end boot to save a good rod end...

Any help is greatly appreciated. It's pretty urgent too!!!
 
What is my next step??? can I just repair the ends of the lines, or will I have to buy all new lines? I really don't have the $ for this..... pressure line is over $400 from Camelback.... $150 from junkzone..... I figure I'll need both....

 
Bummer. You could just go all in and use a pair of vice grips to get it off, and then just use the same to tighten it back up. Then when you can afford it, replace them. Also, I would make sure you invest in a set of line wrenches before trying the other one.

Also, you could call Sam or Beno and see what they can get you the parts for.
 
Im using Snap-On Line wrenches... I don't think it could get much better/tighter fitting than that.... big bummer.... Definitely couldn't get any vice grips in there to do it. I barely had enough room to get the line wrench on there. Who is Sam or Beno? I'm aware of Cruiser Dan, and I'm aware of Lowe's discount. Camelback had the line priced north of $400!!! I can't believe it is that much, talk about mark up!!!! There isn't much to the lines... couple of hard sections, couple of soft sections...

At that price difference, I would probably go with a parts store line, unless I could have someone make them for a decent price. I would definitely bet that I will have to do both lines...
 
The Gates Line kits I found look to have that nut on the end of them. I cant find a picture of the return lines though....
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...402&cc=1317463

I trust Gates, I used a Gates Racing Timing Kit for my STi and was very impressed with the quality, it's actually the standard for those pieces(I manage a 800+ member Subaru club, everyone uses those over OEM).

As far as getting it off, I imagine my sawzall will get it off nicely
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I just hate that I'm going to have to have the truck down for a week... Not to mention I hate that my 1969 Firebird will be sitting outside instead of in the garage
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EDIT: Well, I found the Gates parts on Ebay, Fast and Free shipping for $202 for both lines. Should be here on or before Friday, and I was able to use BillMeLater (6mo, no interest)... so the hit didn't hurt as bad....

New lines will be good I suppose. Now we wait...

I can still go on and do my new front and rear shocks, and my new front lower ball joints in the mean time...

Thinking about ordering some Prothane poly Sway bar bushings for the front as well... the OEM are TOAST.....

SIDE NOTE: I thought about ordering a Gates Power Steering Pump re-seal kit... I haven't noticed a leak from mine, but I haven't looked all that hard yet either... they are only $16 on amazon... I suppose I need to dig that thread out and see if it's worth the time... at that point. my Power steering system would be FRESH.
 
Sam used to be at LOWE, but no more. He has moved to Toyota South, still offering 25% off. Beno worked with CDan for many moons and is now at Neely Toyota in the metro Atlanta as well. They both have contact threads in the miscellaneous forum of the marketplace.
 
right on! I used Toyota South to get my steering rack, the one in Mass. right? I appreciate the help man!
 

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