96 FJ80 EGR temp sensor (1 Viewer)

[smritte]

My temp sensor has been acting up every once in a while. The motor and almost everything on it has been updated or replaced (PM mostly) with the exception of the temp sensor and a few other parts. I occasionally get an EGR code and traced back to the temp sensor. This is the last piece on the EGR circuit to be replaced.

My issue is, I can't seem to get one. I have searched all the known distributors I can think of. Toyota parts overstock (lakeland) showed some but after 5 weeks cancelled my order. Ill assume they cant get one but are awaiting their reply to know for sure. I found another at a dealer in Florida and ordered it today. Afterwards, I noticed their email is toyota parts overstock. Sigh

This is the part number in case anyone has an idea 8941260020.
My next thought is adapting one from something else. All I need is to have "X" resistance at "Y" temp.
Worse case is, I remove mine, store it, bypass it and reinstall it when I need to smog it. The other reason to reinstall it will be after disconnecting my battery having it reset my counts.

Opinions or ideas?

 

[Kernal]

What makes you think your issue is the EGR temp sensor? Been discussed
many times on the forum that the temp sensor is rarely if ever the cause
of an EGR code.

What code are you getting and what have you done to fix it?


To answer your question however you can search Rock Auto and Fleebay

(did it for you)

NTK may be the original manufacturer for Toyota. Either way, IME, their parts are high quality. FWIW

RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

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[LandCruiser65]

that part is NLA. find a used one.

 

[smritte]

Thank you for the reply

What makes you think your issue is the EGR temp sensor? Been discussed
many times on the forum that the temp sensor is rarely if ever the cause
of an EGR code.

Your absolutely correct.
I've been doing drivability professionally since 1980 and I haven't seen one yet. Of course, mine is going to be the first. The resistance is off a bit and has been getting further out as time goes on. The code only use to happen towing on a grade, rarely. Now its normal driving. I was actually thinking of opening up my EGR to increase flow slightly but see no reason to have to modify it.

Thank you for the eBay link. I was looking there yesterday and today. Everything I saw was sold out (Quantity available 0). That one didn't pop up. I didn't think about Rock Auto. I don't normally use them. Somewhere in the back of my mind, I remember something about NTK. Again, thank you for that.

that part is NLA. find a used one.

Sigh.
I'm going to assume you didn't read what I wrote and therefore didn't notice that I already know this. I'm also going to assume you haven't been around "used" parts much. A 26 year old, 300k mileage part is most likely going to put me back to where I'm at or worse.

 

[Kernal]

Would be interesting if you could post up the Ohm numbers you got ie: room temp versus ~300'F.

 

[LandCruiser65]

Sigh.
I'm going to assume you didn't read what I wrote and therefore didn't notice that I already know this. I'm also going to assume you haven't been around "used" parts much. A 26 year old, 300k mileage part is most likely going to put me back to where I'm at or worse.

You do a lot of assuming. If you've ever checked out the discontinued parts thread, then you would have seen that the EGR temp sensor is the latest to fall to the wayside. I understand the age of these vehicles, thanks for doing the math for me. I've seen FZJ's on car-part.com with under 200K miles that are being parted out. Yes, our options are getting limited for certain parts. It does stink. Best of luck finding one. This is a part that rarely fails. Lots of good ones are still out there.

 

[smritte]

You do a lot of assuming. If you've ever checked out the discontinued parts thread, then you would have seen that the EGR temp sensor is the latest to fall to the wayside.

I'm not going to bother reading anything you post from here on out. Your comment was not only unproductive but rude. Now your butt hurt because I called you out on it. I don't "NEED" to read the discontinued thread. I know how to look up parts and have had to do it professionally for decades. If you had any diagnostic skill at all you would know that there is nothing that is flawless and nothing lasts forever. My post did not ask for help diagnosing and if you actually read what I said you would see this.

I occasionally get an EGR code and traced back to the temp sensor. This is the last piece on the EGR circuit to be replaced.

My testing was done when the code first appeared. I knew I was going to rebuild the engine and replace everything due to age. The temp sensor numbers were "close" to spec. Just before the engine rebuild I tested it again and it was a bit farther out. When the engine was rebuilt I replaced everything except the sensor. This was because I have never seen one fail.

I was hoping this didn't turn into a "diagnostic" thread and I really hoped someone wouldn't derail it. For those who wonder how I tested this, I did it in parallel with the ECU, on my lab scope under a load, on a dyno. Yes, I actually have two floor dynos and a smog dyno at work.

Thank you again to @Kernal for his links.

 

[LandCruiser65]

I'm not going to bother reading anything you post from here on out.

I bet you do.

Your comment was not only unproductive but rude.

I told you a part is NLA after you stated you tried multiple times to find one. I was trying to save you time and simply inform you.

Now your butt hurt because I called you out on it.

Not sure how one can tell someone is butthurt thru a keyboard ? This is a PG rated forum man. Why would I get "butthurt" from a stupid comment.

I don't "NEED" to read the discontinued thread.

Are you always that grouchy in the morning?

I know how to look up parts and have had to do it professionally for decades.

Congrats.

If you had any diagnostic skill at all you would know

There you go assuming again. I never mentioned anything about diagnosing your issue. Nice assumption.

that there is nothing that is flawless and nothing lasts forever.

Yea no $hit

My post did not ask for help diagnosing and if you actually read what I said you would see this

Opinions or ideas?

huh???

My testing was done when the code first appeared. I knew I was going to rebuild the engine and replace everything due to age. The temp sensor numbers were "close" to spec. Just before the engine rebuild I tested it again and it was a bit farther out. When the engine was rebuilt I replaced everything except the sensor. This was because I have never seen one fail.

I was hoping this didn't turn into a "diagnostic" thread and I really hoped someone wouldn't derail it.

You de-railed your own thread faster than a drunk Amtrak conductor

For those who wonder how I tested this, I did it in parallel with the ECU, on my lab scope under a load, on a dyno. Yes, I actually have two floor dynos and a smog dyno at work.

Impressive but who asked ??

Thank you again to @Kernal for his links.

 

[MoJ]

It’s pretty rare to have a bad temp sensor but certainly not impossible, just can’t recall anyone reporting a failure. I’ll assume you’ve already cleaned the carbon off of it. NLA but I wouldn’t hesitate to try a used part if you’re convinced that’s the issue, again because failure is rare. Another option to consider:

EGR Temp Sensor Test Plug

Hi Everyone, I figured I would post up a small project I have been pulling together mainly to satisfy my curiosity about EGR bypass, testing, and making it look good. Many of us have experienced the P0401 code and normally it is an EGR related issue. As you will come to find out, especially...

forum.ih8mud.com

And, you guys need to chill a bit.

 

[Njck22]

I "sense" temperatures are hot in this thread

 

[BILT4ME]

Well, I am going through my PO401 EGR Low flow code that my truck has been throwing for years.
1996 LC, 339K miles
I monitor my O2 sensors through my UltraGauge and they continue to appear to be operating correctly.

It has now gone from being on occasionally to on every other time I start it. It will throw a code 5m minutes after I start it even if it's 10°F outside. it's not SUPPOSED to throw a code until it has had time to warm up and evaluate.

So, step one in the FSM tells me to test the EGR Gas Temp Sensor. I checked it cold and I checked it hot. It's supposed to have about 600 ohms. Mine has infinite (no reading) so it's an open circuit and has failed.

The Toyota part number is 89412-60020 and is discontinued.
Rockauto has 4 brands listed with part numbers, but ALL are out of stock except one.

Ultrapower ETS53 = $42.79 (with shipping and everything it's about $52)
NTK EA0071 = Out of Stock
WVE 5S7136 = Out of Stock
GPD 1812185 = Out of Stock

O'Reilly has the Ultrapower ETS53 for $299.99.

I ordered from RockAuto.

This is the first step in my EGR code killing. I have been ignoring this mostly, but this past week because of the change of how the code is coming up, my gas mileage went from 13.5 MPG on long trips to 11.2 MPG and less.

I noticed around town today it was 6.85 MPG

When I'm driving as many miles a year as I am, this will pay for itself fairly quickly.

Do I expect this will SOLVE my EGR issues? No. But it's the first step in the proper EGR diagnosis and it failed.

Install and move on to the next step.

I'll keep you posted.

 

[UTslick68]

Well, I am going through my PO401 EGR Low flow code that my truck has been throwing for years.
1996 LC, 339K miles
I monitor my O2 sensors through my UltraGauge and they continue to appear to be operating correctly.

It has now gone from being on occasionally to on every other time I start it. It will throw a code 5m minutes after I start it even if it's 10°F outside. it's not SUPPOSED to throw a code until it has had time to warm up and evaluate.

So, step one in the FSM tells me to test the EGR Gas Temp Sensor. I checked it cold and I checked it hot. It's supposed to have about 600 ohms. Mine has infinite (no reading) so it's an open circuit and has failed.

The Toyota part number is 89412-60020 and is discontinued.
Rockauto has 4 brands listed with part numbers, but ALL are out of stock except one.

Ultrapower ETS53 = $42.79 (with shipping and everything it's about $52)
NTK EA0071 = Out of Stock
WVE 5S7136 = Out of Stock
GPD 1812185 = Out of Stock

O'Reilly has the Ultrapower ETS53 for $299.99.

I ordered from RockAuto.

This is the first step in my EGR code killing. I have been ignoring this mostly, but this past week because of the change of how the code is coming up, my gas mileage went from 13.5 MPG on long trips to 11.2 MPG and less.

I noticed around town today it was 6.85 MPG

When I'm driving as many miles a year as I am, this will pay for itself fairly quickly.

Do I expect this will SOLVE my EGR issues? No. But it's the first step in the proper EGR diagnosis and it failed.

Install and move on to the next step.

I'll keep you posted.

I'm in the middle of this exact issue. That Ultrapower is still the only EGR sensor available from anywhere, any manufacturer, any price.

Did it help your code or your MPG falling off a cliff?

I'm heavily leaning towards ordering it tonight, and just cross my fingers.

Thoughts?

Thanks.

 

[Malleus]

I think that the gas passage blockage due to carbon buildup is more often the culprit than a bad sensor, unless you're able to verify the sensor has failed. The upper manifolds I've opened have all been plugged. Carbon is a really good heat insulator.

 

[Halfpint]

I think that the gas passage blockage due to carbon buildup is more often the culprit than a bad sensor, unless you're able to verify the sensor has failed. The upper manifolds I've opened have all been plugged. Carbon is a really good heat insulator.

Is the only passage that clogs, the one thru the manifold? I actually bypassed that thru tube with a longer hose in hopes to get rid of the code...

 

[Malleus]

We may not be talking about the same passage. The sensor screws into the intake on one side of the bore, the EGR screws into it on the other. I don't know how you could attach the sensor to the EGR with a hose.

 

[Halfpint]

We may not be talking about the same passage.

Ok...I was assuming this one here:

 

[Malleus]

No, the temp sensor screws into the upper manifold just above the end of your screwdriver, in in the photo above. There's a drilled hole behind that sensor that goes all the way through to the other side. That hole has to be open in order for the sensor to "see" the temperature that the EGR on the other side is experiencing.

Due to the oil from the PCV valve in the valve cover, the entire interior of the upper manifold is soaked in oil, and eventually, solid carbon. This is especially true for the smaller passages in the casting, which are designed to flow gases, and wind up sucking in all that crap.

A bypass oil separator cuts this down significantly.