It's the issue of fit. Military headers won't fit where manifolds will. hopefully he gets lucky and they'll fit. That pass side header aims straight back at the firewall.
94 FZJ80 6.2 conversion begins!
- Thread starter rtarh2o
- Start date
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I would have to agree with fl cruiser, there is no way you could use those military headers. For sure you would have to modify the heck out of the firewall and your passengers will lose a lot of leg space.
- Thread starter
- #23
My engine came with the headers, I have also ordered some stock manifolds because after trial fitting the engine mounts to the block I thought I may not be able to use the headers. I am hoping to get the engine set in the car this weekend so it is possible I can modify a few things to keep the headers. The guy I bought the engine from had a Chevy 2500 4x4 he converted with the same engine. He couldn't fit the headers either but the truck still drove with what seemed to be plenty of power. Hopefully I will feel the same about the 80. I will post some picture of my progress this weekend!
Rusty
Rusty
- Thread starter
- #24
Got engine and trans (seperately this time) in for a trial fit. Am in the process of transmission linkage. I moved the lever connected to the shift lever in the car to the opposite side and bought an adapter from a company called Lokar. It is a pretty good set-up, it is an adjustable linkage exactly for what I am doing. I got it trial fitted today and it seems like it is going to work, I just need to modify my shift console a bit now for the extra gear.
I trial fitted the engine with the Toyota mounts still on the frame, I had a thought that they might just line up. The passenger side probably could have worked but the drivers side is smaller and in the wrong spot by about 6". I am now in the process of removing the mounts. This is by far the hardest thing I have done to date, I don't have a tourch so am using whatever I can find. I have them off now just have a bit of grinding to do now!
Hope to get some pictures up tomorrow
Rusty
I trial fitted the engine with the Toyota mounts still on the frame, I had a thought that they might just line up. The passenger side probably could have worked but the drivers side is smaller and in the wrong spot by about 6". I am now in the process of removing the mounts. This is by far the hardest thing I have done to date, I don't have a tourch so am using whatever I can find. I have them off now just have a bit of grinding to do now!
Hope to get some pictures up tomorrow
Rusty
- Thread starter
- #26
Here is the Lokar adjustable shift linkage. The billet aluminum piece goes on the transmission and the shift rod attaches to it. It is adjustable to change the amount of throw in the shifter. Haven't hooked it up yet, but layed it in there and it looks like it will work.
Rusty
Rusty
- Thread starter
- #27
As I stated above, removing the mounts was the hardest thing I have done so far. Below is the frame with the mount removed then a couple pictures of the engine in for a trial fitting with the mounts installed. It is getting exciting at this point!
Rusty
Rusty
- Thread starter
- #28
Next step is to look at everything for a couple days, make sure it is all where I want it. I am sure the headers are not going to work but there seems to be plenty of room for the stock manifolds. I am going to lay them in and make sure it all fits then tack the mounts in and pull the engine again for some serious welding. At that time I am going to get the shift linkages working. The mounting plate for the transfer case lever doesn't quite line up in the center of the hole so I am going to have to re-work it as well. The instructions said the transfer case mount might have to be slotted to make it line up. But mine is off about 2 inches and would require moving the engine more than I want so I am probably going to make a new plate.
Enough for today
Rusty
Enough for today
Rusty
I know on a 60 the original engine was mounted 3" to 4" left of vehicle center. It gets kind of difficult to put a V8 diesel in the same location. Gets kind of tight by the steering shaft & left frame area.
- Thread starter
- #30
I am centering this one between the frame rails. It is still going to be a bit tight for the steering column but it looks like there will be about an inch between the exhaust manifold and the steering shaft, should be ok. I am in the sit back and think mode right now before welding the mounts. A couple days of looking at it and going over everything in my head before I take the leap and make it permanent.
Rusty
Rusty
Excellent, Smithers.
I'm really interested to get some feedback from you regarding the amount of space you'll have between the exhaust manifold and the passenger side shock tower (looking for turbo clearance). I'm thinking of having a machine shop make a manifold shim or custom manifold so that I can avoid having to modify the shock tower. Might not be necessary.
I'm really interested to get some feedback from you regarding the amount of space you'll have between the exhaust manifold and the passenger side shock tower (looking for turbo clearance). I'm thinking of having a machine shop make a manifold shim or custom manifold so that I can avoid having to modify the shock tower. Might not be necessary.
I did manage to make room to get the engine over to the left by putting a 1" thick steel plate between the steering box and the frame.
There is an advantage of moving the engine to the left. Drive shafts and drive line is centered in the original location. Shifters are centered and fan lines up with the fan shroud. Also oil pan is further from hitting the oil pan if the vehicle doesn't have a lift. But I guess it's better to put the engine where it fits best. All other issues can be worked around.
ATX turbo kits could be had with a rear center mounted turbo that was just above the intake at the rear of the engine.
Not sure, but maybe vans had rear center mounted turbos.
There is an advantage of moving the engine to the left. Drive shafts and drive line is centered in the original location. Shifters are centered and fan lines up with the fan shroud. Also oil pan is further from hitting the oil pan if the vehicle doesn't have a lift. But I guess it's better to put the engine where it fits best. All other issues can be worked around.
ATX turbo kits could be had with a rear center mounted turbo that was just above the intake at the rear of the engine.
Not sure, but maybe vans had rear center mounted turbos.
FL Cruiser--
The rear mounted turbo has quite a lot of appeal but I couldn't find any information about where they were located on the engine. I am curious if there would be firewall clearance issues in this location. If not, that is the option I will take.
The rear mounted turbo has quite a lot of appeal but I couldn't find any information about where they were located on the engine. I am curious if there would be firewall clearance issues in this location. If not, that is the option I will take.
correction: oil pan further from hitting front diff.
Yep, Not much in the way of pictures of rear mounted turbos on the net.
There was an article on a Hummer website a couple years ago that showed an install of a turbo setup from a van. I had it bookmarked, but it's no longer there
Correction: It was ATS not ATX was the company that made rear mounted turbo kits.
Not much info on that anymore. I'm sure they probably long quit making them.
- Thread starter
- #35
I would have to see a picture of some turbo manifolds to let you know if they will fit. I think I could move the engine down a bit and gain a little space between the steering and the manifold. Right now I am waiting on a new oil pan to see if I am going to be able to move mine down any. I currently have the military pan and it is very deep, I think even where it sits now the axle would hit the pan. Again I am hoping to be happy without the turbo but I am sure room could be found to put on in it. There seems to be alot more room in the compartment with the V-8 than the 6. I am even going to be able to install the transmission/transfer case first then install the engine and bolt it up to the bell housing. This is going to be really easy with the V-8, there was no way to do that with the 6, even with the head off. I think once I get it all set up I could pull the engine in a matter of a couple hours if I ever decide to change things.
Rusty
Rusty
kerri it coming I am wanting to do this too but with a 6.5td
- Thread starter
- #37
From the pictures I have seen I think the 6.5 TD might fit. It looks like the turbo is pretty high on the passenger side. There seems to be all kinds of room on the passenger side of the engine. The problem for me would be wiring. The great thing about the 6.2 is the fact that it is mechanical. I am removing most of the Land Cruiser wiring right now, it will be nice to have an uncluttered compartment. I am thinking if I am not happy with the power I will add a Banks turbo, I can do that for around $1,000 and from some tests I have seen the 6.2 with the Banks has about the same output as the 6.5.
I haven't gotten much done the last couple weeks but hope to get the engine in over the Holidays and will post some more pictures
Rusty
I haven't gotten much done the last couple weeks but hope to get the engine in over the Holidays and will post some more pictures
Rusty
I hope you have been making good progress on the swap. I know that taking pictures was the last thing on my mind during my conversion.
- Thread starter
- #39
I am currently waiting for parts so I can install the engine (brackets and manifolds) the place I am getting them all from has been incredibly slow but in the mean time while waiting to get the engine installed I have been doing things like cleaning window channels, making armrest/cupholders, wiring the engine, routing fuel lines, cleaning the tank etc. All things that might have gotten overlooked or done too quickly if I had the parts already. This way things are being done slowly and hopefully correctly! I will post more pictures once I have some noticeable progress made, hopefully this weekend! Can't wait to get it on the road, I am having to borrow my mother's mini van! Rusty
Sounds like when I did mine, I waited three months for my used engine after I pulled the 2f. Once you get everything though, it goes really fast. Here's a pic of mine, but I'm sure yours will look better.
