94 FZJ80 6.2 conversion begins! (1 Viewer)

[rtarh2o]

I decided to start a new thread on this and somewhat document my progress and hopefully get some questions answered along the way. The car is a 1994 FZJ80. I purchased the car with a bad head (already removed) just for this conversion. This is my second 94, sold my previous one last year because I got tired of the mileage but miss it too much so decided on a diesel conversion and eventually run WVO. I was originally thinking Toyota diesel but ofter pricing them they were immediately out of the question. Next thought was the Isuzu, I actually was in the process of buying one but as I was waiting on the guy to remove it from his truck (I waited about 6 weeks, still haven't heard from him!) I came across a local guy selling military take-out 6.2's. I have read up on these and have heard all the stories about reliability but from the 6.2 forums they seem to be very reliable engines. I was a bit concerned about power so I went to visit the guy selling them, he had a Chevy 2500 4x4 he had converted that I drove. I was sold, it seemed to have more power than my old 94 FZJ80 ever did, plus just had the feeling of torque that the V-8's have. The other factor about the 6.2 is that it doesn't require the engine to trans adapter as does the Isuzu, this saves another $1,000. So far I have about $2,500 in parts (engine, rebuilt trans and adapter) I am thinking there will be about another $2,000 to complete it, not including the tires and lift! These are "before" pictures. The car was a mess when I got it so the first thing I did was completely gut the interior, carpets out, removed the padding, even pressured washed the interior! I pressure washed the carpet and hand scrubbed every interior piece. Despite being a mess the seats and carpet were actually in really good shape, they cleaned up great! After the car is running I will detail the exterior. Rusty 94 FZJ80 6.2 Diesel in progress

 

[rtarh2o]

This next set of pictures is of the engine coming out. It is huge, there was a discussion on another thread about removing the engine/trans combo. I am not sure how you could do it without removing the radiator/condensor and top of the core support. It came out fairly easy after I realized I had not removed the transfer case shifter! Total length - 6'6"!

 

[rtarh2o]

Here is a picture of the engine. The guy painted the whole thing black, I pressure washed it now plan to detail it a bit before installation. I spent yesterday assembling the trans/transfer case, working on the shift linkage for the auto shifter (want to keep it stock) and detailing the engine compartment.

 

[rtarh2o]

Cleaned up the picture of the transfer case adapter/trans. It is a Mark's unit, got it from the classifieds here on Mud! It is a nice set-up, retains the factory mounts and shifter, can't wait to get it in! My question is about the wiring? I assume this is for the center lock, is this going to work with my new set-up? I assume it will. Also, where do you get the switches so you can lock it in high gear?

 

[rtarh2o]

Another question, does the speedometer work off of the transfer case or the transmission? I can't find anything on the transmission that looks like speedo and there is something on the transfer case that does. Although with electronics I am not sure what I am looking for. I am used to the cable coming out! The transfer case looks to have something like that with an electrical hook up to it. Hopefully this is it so I can use my factory speedometer.

 

[ChuckB]

Very Cool!!! Can't wait to see how this turns out. Good luck!!!

 

[Towpack]

The speed sensor is on the rear extension housing of the Xfer box,next to the rear prop shaft.

 

[rtarh2o]

I assume the speed sensor is what makes the speedometer work? Like I said, I am old school, used to seeing an actual cable! If this is the speed sensor is it what makes the cruise control work too? I am hoping I can use my factory cruise control work, I am looking into aftermarket, not too bad price wise but I like the controls on the column.
Rusty

 

[rtarh2o]

By the way, I am trying to get rid of all the parts left over, I posted it in the classifieds and had 2 responses but nothing firm yet. I am willing to give it all away right now, just want the space. If I still have it after the conversion I will crate the trans and sell it and part out the rest. I would rather have someone come pick it all up! The trans has about 130,000 miles and was serviced at 103,000, should be excellent! I am in Texarkana, Texas first come first served.
Rusty

 

[Tapage]

Mm nice .. you gonna turboed the Chevy engine ?

 

[rtarh2o]

Not planning on a turbo now, I am hoping I will be happy with it without. I live in the flatlands at low altitude so I think it might be ok. As I said, the Chevy truck I drove with the same engine seemed fine but I only drove it a short distance. If I end up towing much, or find I need more power on the long hills I can add one fairly easily.
Rusty

 

[browndog]

Glad to see you're moving forward. I will be following a similar route and will have lots of questions for you when I get started.

I'm not sure how easy it will be to add a turbo afterward as the passenger side shock tower will have to be modified (unless you go with a center mount turbo, which I'm not sure is an option on the 6.2).

Is that the Toy trans? What are you doing to modify the shifter?

Good luck.

 

[rtarh2o]

I am using a 700r4 trans mounted to the toyota transfer case via a marks adapter. The Toyota shift linkage is on the right side of the trans and the 700r4 is on the left side. The toyota shifter is on the left side of the trans tunnel with a shaft running to the right. I took the arm off of the right side of the shaft and am welding it to the end of the shifter on the left side. I cut a hole through the floor and hope to use the factory linkage to mate it to the 700r4. I know the toyota shift arm on the trans is going to have to be modified as well but doesn't look too bad. I will let you know how it is going to work, that is my next project.

Rusty

 

[rtarh2o]

I am in the process of trying to make my stock auto shifter work with the 700r4. Has anyone done this?
Rusty

 

[bigluxs]

Not on topic but are you going to put it on DYNO???

We just had the old mans one on DYNO after a month of fart assing around with the shop trying to get it right....anyway the first DYNO was 87kws than the second run a month later after timing it properly now is at 100.9kws at the wheels

 

[rtarh2o]

Hadn't thought about dynoing it, but it would be interesting. I have a friend a few hours from here with a dyno, might have to pay him a visit! How do those numbers translate to HP? I am thinking this engine is probably a late model and since it is a military unit I am just guessing around 160 hp and just shy of 300 in torque. I could be way off, but the truck I drove with one of these engines felt pretty strong.
Rusty

 

[bigluxs]

Hadn't thought about dynoing it, but it would be interesting. I have a friend a few hours from here with a dyno, might have to pay him a visit! How do those numbers translate to HP? I am thinking this engine is probably a late model and since it is a military unit I am just guessing around 160 hp and just shy of 300 in torque. I could be way off, but the truck I drove with one of these engines felt pretty strong.
Rusty

i'll have to get the print out of it but i think torque was 300+

the motor is a 1992 and was reco about 5-7yrs ago

 

[bigluxs]

ok here is the print out (.....oh this is a 6.5L)

 

[FL cruiser]

I am thinking this engine is probably a late model and since it is a military unit I am just guessing around 160 hp and just shy of 300 in torque.

you're close on the HP, but off on the torque.
The two military engine I bought came with all the paperwork. They were dyno'd at a military facility in Texas. The peak HP was 150 on one, 148 on the other, but peak torque was under 250 ft lbs. The military usually has their inj pumps calibrated for more output and tests is done with Military headers. I guess if you tweaked the pump a little more you could get close to 160HP/250 ft lbs, but I'm guessing by the time you put cast iron exhast manifolds and exhaust on you would be back down to 150HP.

 

[gumps10]

If you have acces to them why not use the military headers? Their pretty cheap on ebay.