94 FZJ80 6.2 conversion begins!

[rtarh2o]

I tried to get some pictures of it this evening in the shop but they didn't turn out real well. I am having it towed to the exhaust/transmission shop tomorrow and will get some when I get it outside. Right now just checking for leaks (there are a few!)
The rumble of the 6.2 without exhaust and is impressive, it feels like it has tons of torque even though the specs are about the same as the 1FZE. Getting on the road will tell.
Rusty

 

[made4surf]

Congrats! Can't wait to see the pics!

BTW, how did you resolve the exhaust manifold problem and what are you going to do about a tach?

 

[ChuckB]

made4surf PM sent.

 

[rtarh2o]

BTW, how did you resolve the exhaust manifold problem and what are you going to do about a tach?[/quote]

I got a manifold off of an older style 6.2 that flared in, I am not sure if there is any rhyme or reason for the different styles but someone sent me a picture of it so I knew it existed, I just went and searched the salvage yard. It looks like it is going to work great.
As far as the tach goes, I am either going to try and interface with my factory tach or just go with the mini digital, not sure yet.
It is raining this morning if it clears I will get some pictures
Rusty

 

[rtarh2o]

Here are the pictures finally! The weather cleared up today so I got it out of the shop and towed to the exhaust/transmission shop. I should get it back either tomorrow or monday, it will be a long weekend if I have to wait until monday!
Yes it is duct tape on the air cleaner assembly, I couldn't find one at the salvage yard in time so I modified one I had laying around, it will work until I get a correct one!

 

[rtarh2o]

A few more. After I get it back (hopefully tomorrow) I need to fix a couple small fuel leaks, work on the hydroboost brakes, add the radiator shroud etc, etc.
I do have a question about the hydroboost, I haven't really had much of a chance to bleed it out yet (the hydroboost not the master cylinder) nor do I really know how (the instructions were pretty vague) but the brakes are like mush until I start the car then they come up nicely and feel firm? Any ideas?
I will let you know more when I actually get a chance to drive it in the next few days!
Rusty

 

[rtarh2o]

By the way, tires are on the to do list as well, just have to see how much money I have after the exhaust!

 

[Ruadhrigh]

Very nice work. You should be proud!

 

[Tapage]

Which tranny you use at the end . .?

 

[rtarh2o]

I went with a 700R4 with an adapter to the Toyota t-case. The 700R4 has a .70 overdrive that was the main reason for going with it.
Rusty

 

[lt1fire]

about how much dd this all cost?

 

[Tapage]

I went with a 700R4 with an adapter to the Toyota t-case. The 700R4 has a .70 overdrive that was the main reason for going with it.
Rusty

Did you have a pic of how it looks inside .. ?

 

[JimCrow]

Hello, glad to hear it's running. You will be impressed with the torque. Sometimes the injector return lines get broke while working on these engines, if so NAPA has a return kit for under $12.00, hoses and clamps. As for the booster it will bleed it self, brakes should be solid running or not

 

[lt1fire]

what is the silver box that says vormax on it??

 

[rtarh2o]

Cost - so far I am guessing I have about $5,000 - $6,000 in it. I paid about $900 for the engine (I have seen them alot cheaper but I found this one about 30 minutes from my house and the guy delivered it free) about $1,000 for the rebuilt 700R4 and I think the t-case adapter was about $500. I paid alot for all new accessories and brackets (A/C, Alternator & p/s pump) that you wouldn't have to do if you bought a complete engine but I like the idea of them all being new. I still have to pay the exhaust shop and get 33" tires (to acieve the right final drive for the diesel) so probably about $1,200 to finish?
I will post a picture of the inside when I get it back from the exhaust shop, I guess you are wondering about the auto shifter and t-case shifter? They are all stock, can't tell any difference on the inside of the vehicle. I used an adjustable shift linkage so the shift points all line up on the shifter. The only problem is the 700R4 is a 4-speed and the Toyota had only 3 (electronic overdrive) so low gear doesn't show up on the shift console. It can still be used but the indicator doesn't show it.
The silver box that says vormax on it is a high tech heated fuel filter. I am planning on a WVO blend so I spent $300 for that filter, it is suppossed to be one of the best.
I still have to figure out my cruiser control and tachometer as well as find a place for the radiator overflow and washer bottle.
Suprisingly all the guages work and the check engine light isn't on.
I will post again when I put a few miles on it, I would love to get close to 20 mpg but not really expecting it. My thought is that even if the mileage isn't better than original I at least have the option of running a blend. I am sure I can run at least a 50/50 blend without any problems and hope to run more like a 75/25 blend. That being the case my fuel cost will be cut by as much as 75%

 

[made4surf]

He's got a heater hose going to it so it may have something to do with heating veg oil.

Good work on the swap, looks great!

 

[made4surf]

Whoops, looks like I was a little slow on that response.

 

[rtarh2o]

Yea, again that is my heated fuel filter, hopefully that along with the heated injector lines will allow me to run a pretty high WVO blend.

 

[addicted56]

Great inspiration. The 6.2 I pulled for my swap is caked in oil from top to bottom (has a rear main seal that needs replaced). How did you get yours so clean??

Also what did you do for wiring the engine, esp the glow plugs? I yanked as many as the wires and adapters as I could off of the truck before taking it to the yard but could not get everything.

That is an amazing rig. I love the black. I run the Vormax as well and you will love the unit and the VEG. You should be able to run a 50/50 mix but watch the cold temps and depending on what they do with your fuel in the area I've had wax preciptation problems in the past taht you do not want to deal with when mixing #2 with WVO.

 

[rtarh2o]

Thanks, glad you like it, actually it is green not black, I too like the black though.
To clean mine I used alot of degreaser and a pressure washer, took awhile but mine wasn't caked in oil. It didn't have any accessories on it so I just plugged all the openings and hosed it good! Before I put the parts back on I either used the degreaser/pressure washer or my blast cabinet to clean them and everything was repainted before assembly. I had lots of time waiting for parts and trying to figure things out so I used that time cleaning/detailing.
As for blending I have been doing a little testing today since my Cruiser is finally out of the shop I have been posting it on this site.
Thinnest blend? - Topic Powered by eve community
From what I have found out, blending with regular gas is the best, you don't have to worry about the waxing problems you describe. I am hoping to run a 75% WVO/25% Gas mix most of the time, from what I have found even at freezing it isn't much thicker than diesel. In order to use that much gas you have to use "stale" gas (old) so most of the octane is gone out of it. I am talking to a salvage yard near me about getting some of theirs.
As far as the wiring it was pretty simple. The only GM harness I used was the IP and I just spliced that into a switched source. I found the Toyota wires I was going to need as I pulled the engine (a/c, alternator, starter, transfer case etc) and labeled them, the rest I just cut off and stuck back inside the firewall. I made my own glow plug wiring and bought a glow plug timer from Peninsular Diesel.
Glad to answer any other questions when you get further into it, are you putting your 6.2 into an 80? I have found only one other 6.2 80 in the US so far, pretty exclusive club!