Just tried mine with the "wire jumping method." I hope that it clears my Code 71 CEL!! 
'94 Code 71, EGR Bypass and redneck technique.. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Railroader
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Has anyone gotten their cruiser through a California smog inspection with the bypass in place?
So, OBD1 all you have to do is bypass the sensor with a paper clip, and swap what hoses? There is an overload of info on this. I know just simple OBD1 would not require much. Can someone post a simple way of doing this for a no emission state.
Thanks.
Thanks.
mypancreasbroke
SILVER Star
About 500 miles in, with just the wire jumper, I'm saying no resistor necessary....
I'm wondering how everythings holding up for everyone who has done this? Most of these post's were 3ish years ago, so have CEL come back? After a certain mileage was the resistor necessary? Hoping this redneck fix is also a lasting one!
Ok I am about to go do this fix on my truck. I am sick of the CEL and why keep something in there if unnecessary.
Here is my question. When I loop those hoses back around on each other essentially to cut off the EGR from the ECU and motor, what do I do with the openings that were made by looping the hoses back onto the EGR?
Leave them?
Block them? If so, how?
Thanks
Here is my question. When I loop those hoses back around on each other essentially to cut off the EGR from the ECU and motor, what do I do with the openings that were made by looping the hoses back onto the EGR?
Leave them?
Block them? If so, how?
Thanks
Let me specify...
1. What is picture #2 in the OP showing?
2. The hose from the EGR to the VSV can remain correct?
3. What do I do with the P and R ports that come off the throttle body? Just leave them open?
Thanks.
1. What is picture #2 in the OP showing?
2. The hose from the EGR to the VSV can remain correct?
3. What do I do with the P and R ports that come off the throttle body? Just leave them open?
Thanks.
Thank ALL of you so much - I jumped the plug with a paper clip and then electrical tape around it, but will order the official $15 Redneck part soon. The light is out, after years and hundreds of $ trying to fix it. Runs great and, besides, I AM a redneck anyway, but transplanted to California.
To get the CEL light extinguished, just pulling the EFI fuse wasn't enough. There was also a fuse in the cockpit that had to come out. I couldn't figure out which one - do any of you know? So I disconnected the battery.
That little pluck is a mo-fo to reach for a geezer. I got 'er done, but with a ladder and some stretching.
275000 miles and counting. What a neat car.
To get the CEL light extinguished, just pulling the EFI fuse wasn't enough. There was also a fuse in the cockpit that had to come out. I couldn't figure out which one - do any of you know? So I disconnected the battery.
That little pluck is a mo-fo to reach for a geezer. I got 'er done, but with a ladder and some stretching.
275000 miles and counting. What a neat car.
Just wanted to say thanks to the search gods for this thread. I used this very simple trick that my EGR sysytem didn't want me to know about to clear up my code 71 and I won't be laying in bed awake now because I have peace of mind that angry pipe isn't overheating my fresh head gasket.
I am not sure I really understand what the EGR system does, but I do know that I don't care that much now that mine is taking a dirt nap. I spent a good amount of time reading threads about removing it and otherwise re-doing a bunch of stuff, but I felt like my head was spinning and I was going to be making some big decisions on something I wasn't really clear on. This took me less than ten minutes.
I can still hook it back up and try to fix it if I ever move to a testing area, but for now, this is sweet.
Should I try to cap the two ends of the wire now though since I live in the rust belt and those will probably be exposed for awhile. I bought some big shrink wrap pieces and plan on experimenting with sealing an end on one before slipping it over the electrical connection ends.
I am not sure I really understand what the EGR system does, but I do know that I don't care that much now that mine is taking a dirt nap. I spent a good amount of time reading threads about removing it and otherwise re-doing a bunch of stuff, but I felt like my head was spinning and I was going to be making some big decisions on something I wasn't really clear on. This took me less than ten minutes.
I can still hook it back up and try to fix it if I ever move to a testing area, but for now, this is sweet.
Should I try to cap the two ends of the wire now though since I live in the rust belt and those will probably be exposed for awhile. I bought some big shrink wrap pieces and plan on experimenting with sealing an end on one before slipping it over the electrical connection ends.
short answer on what the egr does is under certain driving conditions exhaust gasses are allowed into the intake via the egr valve to help control nox emissions.
what I did with mine as I am in a rust area as well I used electrical tape to on both connectors to keep water out and keep the jumper wire in. you could throw some dielectric grease in the connectors as well
I got rid of the egr and pair system. Run the o2s up where the pair was. Got rid of the jungle of vacuum lines and vsvs under the manifold. Now run one single vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, all others are capped, and can run the heater return pipe from 95 and up to eliminate the extra heater hose our 93 94s have. I still have the charcoal canister but vent it to atmosphere instead of the engine since its switch is gone. Truck runs awsome
I believe you and I would like to subscribe to your newsletter. However, I only understood about half of the stuff you said. See, I need the FSM. Without it, I am like a babe in the woods. Once you get off the reservation and abandon your life directions, there is really no going back.
I am not a dumb man, but I can acknowledge that it might make sense to keep enough of the stuff that the truck came with if I ever need to hire a mechanic on the spot somewhere. Maybe I screw something up with the wiring or remove one to many hoses and boom, meltdown.
None of the stuff I have pulled is needed on a obd1, I am a aviation mech by trade and worked land cruiser specifically too as work. I don't plan on getting rid of my truck and prob majority of people might think getting rid of stuff is silly. But for me it makes the engine way more simple , it runs way smoother, I have no vacuum lines to worry bout or change which is not a super big deal, I like the o2s up in the manifold because easier to change and stay cleaner as far as the outside. I have no hot egr running on my harness and I don't have to do emissions in this part of Colorado. I have no vsv switches to worry about. In my opinion I have way cleaner engine and less systems to trouble shoot.
All good thoughts and the reason I decided to just do it.
It's so weird to be able to grab the big nut where the EGR pipe starts and feel nothing. Mine is wrapped in fiberglass tape now and someone in the future may be able to piece together what happened and why things are the way they are, but in reality, this does seem to make it a better running truck and it eliminates two of the things that kill 80's.
So I tried this approach and the CEL is still there on my 94 with code 71. Do I have to drive for 15min or something before it's turned off? What else could it be?So, after nearly going blind reading EGR posts, and the fact that my truck runs SO GOOD, I've got no interest in going any further than I have to to try and get rid of the CEL...
From what I can gather, I can render the EGR inoperative by doing this...
This seems to have worked, since after a trip to town, with a little 10 mile highway jaunt, the EGR pipe is cool. Truck runs perfectly, no noticeable change. I like the idea of no hot exhaust gas running back thru my motor, and maybe saving the HG by #6 would be a big bonus...
The light came back on, and I remembered someone's "Redneck Fix" that involved jumping the temp sensor plug, so I've done this...
Next step is Radio Shack for the resistor, I guess, if that trick works on the '94. But I've read so much of this stuff, on so many trucks, that I'm looking for some feedback telling me that I'm on the right track here...
Thanks again guys, I'm off to try it out...
did you clear the code before driving? if you didnt eventually it will clear its self if theres no fault seen by the computer and that will take a little while to happen.
Thanks. How do you clear the code on this lovely 94 beast?
you can disconnect the battery or pull the efi or one of the ecu fuse, i dont rember which one it is off hand. pulling the fuse is preferred since it wont clear the radio memory
thanks. I disconnected the negative cable of the battery for 15min and it worked.
i looked it up and it is the efi fuse just so you know
