'93 FZJ80, Brake upgrade options.... (3 Viewers)

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I bought the PowerStop rotors (just the front) from http://www.ebay.com/itm/140610503268?item=140610503268&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

They came with Evolution ceramics pads. I have found them little cheaper elsewhere but can't remember where.

The calipers I picked up from our local toyota dealership. They are OEM remans. They where $90 per side. Again pretty sure you can find them cheaper.

Wasn't a bad job, but took a little bit. We repacked the bearings and replaced the inner seal. The bearings and races look good.

Nothing needed to be modded and if I don't like the pads they came with i will shove some 100 series pads in there. Stopping power is great and feels really solid.

X2

Just did all four corners with the power stop rotors and they are fantastic. The fronts took a while with the bearing repack, but the rears were about 10 minutes per side.

Once the new evolution ceramic pads bedded in, they grab with serious authority. Gives you confidence in traffic on the freeway.

Upgraded the tired rubber brake lines to Man-a-fre stainless while I was in there.

Look up any coupons online while you're shopping around. I saved 60 bucks and got free shipping from taking a few extra minutes of looking.
 
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sorry for bumping an old thread. I have a 93 without abs and drums out back. With all the extra weight with armor and tent on top in the summer I would like discs out back. A couple people referenced this. Is there a kit somewhere that is made for this? I cannot find one.

Also with the 100 series pad up front does the caliper not contacting the entire pad have an issue on caliper wear?
Thanks,
Zach
 
Well it's been almost 4 months since I changed my brake pads to my lc80 1hdt automatic transmission and today I bought another set of it complete one. I have noticed different colors of pads in Toyota genuine parts , I used pink type which worked best till now , I wonder why they use different colors in same product ,,,,,, does color means any thing, today the one I bought are green type,,, so any budy know abt colors
 
My LC goes thru' brakes like 'stuff' thru' a goose: pads at 20K and rotors at 40K. The brake issue seem specific to the 93 year and it looks like the brakes are better in the latter years ?

What options do I have to convert to a later year setup that will give me better stopping power and possibly lengthen the interval between component canges ?

Thanx in advance...jonathan


Hi
What kind of brakes you have on R Axle? Drums? or rotors (disk)?

What kind of R axle? FF or SF?
 
I don't think the later year 80 series are any better on brakes than the 93. Many use the 100 series pads in the front. I don't put many miles on, but my braking improved with new Powerstop rotors, EBC green/supreme pads and rebuilt calipers. Can't speak to longevity.
They don’t get any better I have a 97 and they aren’t the best
 
Any recent experience with Powerstop rotors? Looking to do some upgrades in near future now that my son is dailyish driving it.
 
Not saying the Powerstop rotors are a bad choice but changing out a single component on the brake system is unlikely to make much of an improvement. My advice would be to look at the system as a whole. If you haven't swapped out soft lines then there is a good chance they are close to 30 years old. Same goes for calipers (can be overhauled) master cylinder, booster and fresh fluid. Pads and rotors go without saying.
A well maintained brake system on these rigs works well.
 
Not saying the Powerstop rotors are a bad choice but changing out a single component on the brake system is unlikely to make much of an improvement. My advice would be to look at the system as a whole. If you haven't swapped out soft lines then there is a good chance they are close to 30 years old. Same goes for calipers (can be overhauled) master cylinder, booster and fresh fluid. Pads and rotors go without saying.
A well maintained brake system on these rigs works well.
Let me add some more context:
I changed out all soft lines out a few years ago.
Rear calipers are new (rebuilt) a few months ago. Fluid is changed every year or so.
Front pads are ECB, rear are OEM.
Haven’t decided if I’m going to rebuild the front calipers with OEM parts or new.

Still have ABS, still have LSPV. Booster / master looks like it was replaced by PO. Not original.

Smoked the brakes this weekend on mountain passes with a heavy rig and planning on replacing the rotors along with front calipers.

All that being said, looking for input on PS vs OEM.
 
Good info. A few years back I swapped worn OEM rotors for Powerstop. They lasted about 3 months before they warped. Swapped back to OEM and never had a problem since.
 
Good info. A few years back I swapped worn OEM rotors for Powerstop. They lasted about 3 months before they warped. Swapped back to OEM and never had a problem since.
Yeesh. OEM it is. Thanks for the info.
 
I like DBA slotted front rotors, and a quality aftemarket pad. Aussie product, but believe they are available stateside.

I tylically use bendix pads. Not sure if they are available outside of Australia.

I think the slotted rotors do improve braking a little, but they'll still fade on a long mountain pass etc.

Calipers may be hit and miss on being rebuildable.
Pistons and bores tend to rust if rubber boots are compromised at all
 
We've had good results and feedback on the terrain tamer fortified pads on a few vehicles over the last few months. Would recommend a look. X2 on @mudgudgeon's comments, avoid drilled rotors. DBA slotted rotors are nice, the terrain tamer slotted and dimpled are nice.
 
Not saying the Powerstop rotors are a bad choice but changing out a single component on the brake system is unlikely to make much of an improvement. My advice would be to look at the system as a whole. If you haven't swapped out soft lines then there is a good chance they are close to 30 years old. Same goes for calipers (can be overhauled) master cylinder, booster and fresh fluid. Pads and rotors go without saying.
A well maintained brake system on these rigs works well.
Any upgrades recommended in this realm? (MC, booster) Or is OEM the way to go all around? With the added weight, I’d like to upgrade where possible, but retain factory 16” wheels.
 
I typically stick to OEM and on any new to me truck I will replace every part in the brake system with the possible exception of the booster. My '94 would make the tires chirp on dry pavement and that was on 315's. My '96 feels even better but is on 33's. A properly maintained brake system works well on these rigs.
 
If I were to have extra $$

 
If I were to have extra $$

This over Ceika? Only a front option for these ones. This thread seems to indicate that you should be doing full blown front and rear.

I'm due for brakes - booster seems fine, but I'd like to do a new master, calipers, pads, lines, etc. At that point, seems prudent to really upgrade.
 
This over Ceika? Only a front option for these ones. This thread seems to indicate that you should be doing full blown front and rear.

I'm due for brakes - booster seems fine, but I'd like to do a new master, calipers, pads, lines, etc. At that point, seems prudent to really upgrade.
No option for rears on our 80 yet. Only fronts for either 16s or 17s. Or you can go with 4runner(2010-2013 if im not mistaken) calipers and rotor kits (fronts)
 

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