93-97 Coolant Temperature Gauge Modification (1 Viewer)

[loquito]

Nice work R2, looks good

I like the clamp up method. Looks more secure and supports more of the board, just don’t clamp to tight. I used the disordering bulb, I was not much for it but it worked, I thought the braid might work better but aparently not. Maybe your soldering iron was not large enough to heat that much mass?


Thanks

Hey RavenTai
Has there been any word on the mod for a 94? I am too chicken to jump in without reassurance.
Steven

 

[semlin]

Hey RavenTai
Has there been any word on the mod for a 94? I am too chicken to jump in without reassurance.
Steven

i can answer that. I've been procrastinating. Will get it shipped to RT asap

 

[RavenTai]

i can answer that. I've been procrastinating.

Cant say I blame you after my last performance at picking it up doubt you would want to go through that agian.

let me know.

 

[loquito]

i can answer that. I've been procrastinating. Will get it shipped to RT asap

Hi Semlin

Thanks, sorry I am so chicken, I usualy end up replacing parts when I venture ahead unprepared.


steven

 

[Rookie2]

Well, after several days of driving around with the modified gauge, I find it behaves the same way as it did pre-mod. Meaning that the needles moves to the center point and stays there. I mean it don't move one way or the other..., just like before. I assume since the gauge moves to begin with, that I did do the mod successfully but if so, what I'm seeing is that normal operating temperature is at gauge center, and the engine runs at/maintains that temperature consistantly (no fluxuation). Is this how your gauges are behaving? Would you have to be in hot, high engine load conditions to typically see the gauge move above this normal operating temperature?

Thanks,
Rookie2

 

[RavenTai]

Hello R2

If enything was wrong it would either not work at all or go right to the middle as soon as you turn the key.

Generally it will just go to the center and wiggle up/down slightly, especially in this cool waether, you should also notice that it takes much longer to finally hit center than before the mod, and if we ever get a warm spell again you may notice spikes when idling with the AC on (fast food drive through) or less so at long lights.


keep an eye on it for a wile you will catch some slight movements.

 

[LX_TREME]

Thanks RT, I was replacing all the cluster bulbs-(new) and just did the temp gauge mods about half an hour ago, will see it tomorrow.

 

[RavenTai]

Thanks RT, I was replacing all the cluster bulbs-(new) and just did the temp gauge mods about half an hour ago, will see it tomorrow.

if my count is right that is mod # 5



Let us know how you like it, do you have anything to add to the instructions?

 

[Romer]

I just added this to the FAQ.

 

[LX_TREME]

if my count is right that is mod # 5 ?

Let us know how you like it, do you have anything to add to the instructions?

No, your explanation nice and clear, but I like to make little correction to the subject / title, its should be Factory Coolant "Real Time" Temp Gauge Mods.Other may got mixed up with Coolant Temp Gauge Mod's, they thought you mod's the aftermarket gauge not the factory gauge.Well it just my .02 as long the pics still there they can see it.

I haven't drive the LX out yet, but so far I just start and warm it for 10 min's the water temp raised up slowly to normal position (Compare before the mod's) Could be chilly morning weather here in Southern CA -60 F.

Will let you know sometimes this week

 

[Rookie2]

I was in stop and go mall traffic for about 30 minutes yesterday, and got my highest needle movement to date... about a 1/2 to full needle width above middle.

 

[RavenTai]

Thanks Romer I really think this is a must do for everyone.

LX_TREME, I looked at the thread title and and the first few paragraphs and I see what you mean, you get pretty far in before it becomes apparent that this is a mod for the OEM gauge, soem may not ever make it that far.

I wanted to start with some history and comparisons to the alternative for those new to the subject but that kind of clouds things.

I don't think I can change the title at this point.

Rooky2, it was kind of warm here today also, got stuck in construction traffic on the way to work, warm sunny afternoon maybe lower 70's, got a spike again maybe 2 NW, not overheating per say but I think mine heats up easier than others and that bothers me.

 

[LX_TREME]

I was in stop and go mall traffic for about 30 minutes yesterday, and got my highest needle movement to date... about a 1/2 to full needle width above middle.

Same here, on the way to work this morning stop -n-go L.A traffic (15-20mph) on the freeway the temp needle went up just about 1/2 then drop back to normal after no traffic ->60 mph.

P.S: Next year will drive to Vegas in the Hot summer time with AC on, then we'll see

 

[cpg]

Well I just did mine while replacing the cluster bulbs. Thank you very much for sharing. Also my photos I try and post are to large 380kb am i doing something wrong?

Thanks

 

[RavenTai]

CPG, good deal, mod #6

you will want to use a photo editing program to size the pictures to 800x800 pixles or smaller, then you will use the program to compress the image to below 87KB, I use Adobe Photoshop 7, if you have access to it I can give you directions.

 

[cpg]

Hi RT
The temp gauge used to be flat in the middle after warm up. Now it moves quite a bit. Stopped up over middle going down hill below middle going up grade in 2nd gear 3/4 the way to red about .125" under it. Thought i was going to overheat. Great mod.
Thank you

 

[RavenTai]

the 3/4 mark should be about 205 F not overheated but heading that way, I dont have many long climbs in my area, mainly just rolling hills, mine only spiked wile at idle, ushuall only that high with idle and AC on witch has not happpened lately due to the weather.

is Livermore in SoCal or NorCal? what are the ambient temps when you see these spikes in engine temp?

 

[Darwood]

I finally got this mod done while I was taking my dash apart to find my ignition wiring issue. I figured since I had the dash apart I might as well take the instrument cluster out. The mod wasn't bad at all (other than the cluster removal) and I forgot how much fun soldering is. One thing I noticed is that I didn't have to drill out the zener diode holes. I was able to mount the resister with the provided holes.

At any rate, I should have replaced the bulbs since the illumination bulb behind the gas and charge gauges needs a thump every now and then to illuminate.

The modded gauge does move quite a bit. I'm guessing the temps were around 65 this weekend and I noticed that the gauge sat around center to a needle width above center while traveling 60-65 on the highway. When I got up to 75-80 the needle started to rise up to the 3/4 and stay there. This was with the A/C off. The drive was up the 80 towards Sacramento from where I live (about an hour drive)

(edit) I also forgot to add that I have an aftermarket raditor with some deposits in it. I'm hoping to soon rebuild the cooling system with new hoses, new OEM raditor, new fan, and clutch. I'm curious to see how it would respond after this.

 

[landtank]

At any rate, I should have replaced the bulbs since the illumination bulb behind the gas and charge gauges needs a thump every now and then to illuminate.

it's the socket to the film that's the problem. If you go back and rotate the socket slightly it will take care of it. Or give it a few months, mine works perfectly now.

 

[Darwood]

it's the socket to the film that's the problem. If you go back and rotate the socket slightly it will take care of it. Or give it a few months, mine works perfectly now.

Thanks Rick. I think I'll give it a few months. I don't particularly enjoy taking the cluster out, so if it fixes itself I'll be all the more grateful.