93 4x4 single cab short box rear porportioning valve delete

[Dan93]

Hi everyone, my name is dan and I am currently doing a frame off restoration on my 93 4x4 single cab short box. I recently replaced the whole back half of my frame because we'll you know it was rotted...and then I got it powdercoated...now I am in the process of running new stainless brake line and was wondering if I can delete that rear porportioning valve with a simple t-spliter or how does one do that??? And is it a smart idea to do that or keep it??. If I do keep it i need a new one and only one I seen was $180..

 

[ferg]

Simple. Install a manual proportioning valve at the master cylinder. Adjust so that you don't lock up the rear when you stomp on the brakes. Summit has them for small money. Or your local speed shop.

 

[Dan93]

Thank you! Very much! I will do that...now I'm thinking it doesn't matter where it's located?? Because I seen pictures where people put the adjuster so it is threw the floor by the shifter so it's easily accessible if I am ever towing or hauling heavy loads..

 

[ferg]

Location is whatever works best for you. Under hood near MC is out of the weather. I put mine on the factory rear prop valve bracket, but I wasn't replumbing my truck either.

 

[Dan93]

Good point with keeping it out of the elements....not to sure yet... but again I much appreciate your information.

 

[pappy]

Not on a mini-truck. This is the brake proportion valve on my FJ40 which was required because of the rear disk brakes. I made the bracket it mounts on.

View attachment 1215515

 

[Dan93]

Looks clean and simple...very nice...I think I will do something like that...thanks for the picture to get an idea!!!

 

[ntsqd]

Nice thing about the stock part is that it is self-adjusting for different payloads. They're properly called a "Load Sensing Proportioning Valve" (LSPV)

Bad thing about the stock part is that if you go to larger & heavier tires it is usually maxed out or close to it. After years of having the lever pulled up as far as it would go (DC'd from the axle housing) I made an adjuster that holds the lever stub at the upper limit of it's travel. When I take the shell off the truck I'll need to back it down some.

 

[KLF]

When I was putting mine back together, I left off the return line that goes from the T behind the RF tire, I just plugged the opening with a flare nut that I welded closed. I got rid of the LSPV because I don't think it was working properly and they are $$$ to replace. This is how I installed a manual valve: