92 4Runner - 63 conversion

[AcroSteve]

So I've been reading the big thread over on pirate, but just so much of it is based on trucks that started with leafs. I'm converting from coils, so reference points are different. There's some 4runner references, but with the age of the thread, many picture links are broken.

I could just about figure out the mounting locations myself. I just like confirmation.

. But even with the d-shaft problem I feel 8 1/2" puts the wheel in the perfect spot. Another way of placing it, if you have a 2nd gen. 4runner, is to put it exactly in the center of the body mount at that location. That is where 8 1/2" ends up. Since 4runners dont have an original mount.

It seems to me that almost everyone references the front mount location 1st, then the back is a little bit flexible based on shackle length and angle. Makes sense. But saying to put the front mount "in the center of the body mount at that location" doesn't make sense. There is no mount in the area.

In those pictures, I have 13" between the bottom of the frame and top of the axle housing. Pretty close to ride height.

Im probably going with the frenched in brackets from Ruff stuff. But from the looks of my layout, I'll be right at the front edge of my lower arm bracket.

Then there's the question of the shock mounts. Wide open options there.

So if anyone has any pictures or links, I'd appreciate seeing others.

Or, should I drop the chevys and go with the shorter cords? I already had 2 sets if chevy leafs laying around, which is why I'm leaning that direction.

Thanks

 

[AcroSteve]

Im very likely going to use this rock assault housing. Its a couple of inches wider than my factory and has the benefit of disc brakes.

Just gotta get some spring perches on it, and then the previously mentioned shock locations...

 

[gnob]

the correct way is s to measure the actual spring flat length. then take those measurements to the truck based off where center should be.

taking suggestions from the internet without using your tape measure on your truck is a good way to end up doing it twice.

 

[AcroSteve]

Made some progress.

I should have already ordered my brackets, but I procrastinate sometimes
I'm replacing most of the air conditioning components, so that will keep.me busy while I'm waiting.


I'm probably gonna do something similar to the top photo for my shock mounts.

Does anyone know how much space is between the top of the frame rails, and the underside of the body. Where the shock hoop will be. Ive got my body lifted way up and I forgot to measure before hand.

 

[Pat4wd]

Made some progress.

View attachment 3962506View attachment 3962507

I should have already ordered my brackets, but I procrastinate sometimes
I'm replacing most of the air conditioning components, so that will keep.me busy while I'm waiting.


I'm probably gonna do something similar to the top photo for my shock mounts.

Does anyone know how much space is between the top of the frame rails, and the underside of the body. Where the shock hoop will be. Ive got my body lifted way up and I forgot to measure before hand.
View attachment 3962510

Looks like you are getting it figured out. I just did my 2nd gen 4runner. Had been about 20 years since I had done a 2nd gen 4runner rear 63's. I always use the plumb Bob method to get my center of wheel well to spring pin measurement then tack in the hangers. Mount the axle and put weight on it to see how I like. I ended up going forward 5/8's of a inch from my original location to get the wheel where I wanted for final weld in. Nothing hard just trial and error.

 

[AcroSteve]

With Everything out of the way now.

 

[AcroSteve]

Well, while I was waiting on my suspension parts from RuffStuff, I got back on the body. And have stayed on the body, so there's nothing new on the suspension.

But the body had some rust i needed to address. Mostly the rear quarters and rockers. When I saw the way @Broski did his rock sliders, I really liked it. His sliders are welded into his body. Not directly connected to the frame. It was something I hadn't seen before and made pretty good sense. And since I was cutting out rust, it fit right into my plans.

I'm gonna build high clearance tube bumpers, so the rear quarter rust was handled by just cutting the bottoms off and enclosing them. I also opened the rear wheel opening up about 2-1/2". That's more than I needed to address the rust, but it was basically the maximum while keeping the shape about the same and not getting into the doors.

After cutting the opening, I wanted to bend a hem all along the edge for strength and to make the welding easier. So I made a tool to bend over about 3/8.

Got in a hurry, I'll deal with that big warp later

And the rocker and rear door opening after cutting out the rust.

 

[AcroSteve]

But back to the rear quarters 1st.

Cut out the rust.

New metal.

Other side is basically a mirror image of all this.



So back to the rockers. These 2nd gen 4runners have so many layers around the body mounts. And I cut out most of them dealing with the rust. I figured it wouldn't hurt to try to keep as much of the original connections as I could.
So the complete inner rocker will get welded to the slider tube, but also the extra layers at the body mounts.

I trimmed this one so that it extends past the inner rocker so that I am sure to get good welds on both.

 

[AcroSteve]

the slider is just up temporarily while I fit a couple more pieces around the rear door.

The tube is .125x2x4. Its a little bit long and will be trimmed and capped. I think they might make great air tanks for my compressor, but im curious if they would bulge over time.

Again, Richard's 80 was my inspiration. @Broski

I'm dreaming about a hybrid exo cage. That front section of tube is perfect to land a section of roll bar onto.

 

[AcroSteve]

This back side will get welded almost continuous. There are a few factory drains that I think I should probably keep open.