91 won't start after long drive, need some expert opinions

[Marine7]

For sure do not want to have to needlessly rebuild anything hahaha. Want to drive not shop it.

Is their a good write up on the wire replacement process that I am missing somewhere? If this is it I know a few wiring gurus in the dfw area that could possibly help me.

I'm sure there is.... I'm clueless on how to find it beyond telling you to "search for it". Usually I'm in the garage, but this week my back has been killing me (funny what 3 little AK rounds can do to a person!.....not), so I'm playing lazy boy commando, wish I could tell you more! JONHELD is the BEST 3F mind on this sight, but hopefully someone will pitch in with a direct link to them articles.

 

[Tpurdin]

The starter circuit is fairly straight forward and has no interaction with any other circuits on the vehicle. Looking at the igniter/ignition or anything else for a "no crank" is futile.

The starter has 2 connections. The large lug on the side is a direct connection to the battery positive terminal. The small clip terminal is the logic signal that fires the starter motor.
The 1st thing to do is verify that you are getting a good +12 at the logic terminal when the key is turned to START. If you are getting a good +12 here then the issue is either a poor connection from the battery (previously mentioned by @SUMMIT CRUISERS) or with the starter itself.

If you're not getting a good +12 at the logic terminal, then the problem is upstream. The current flow for the starter logic path is as follows:
Battery positive terminal/fusible link AM1/fuse AM1/ignition switch/neutral start switch/starter.

Ok so I'll check both here in a bit, neutral safety switch is this under the center console above the trans? I've heard of bad connections at this point in the system, dirt etc. 26years of grime good cleaning and boom good to go. If the neutral safety has poor contact will this also prevent it from starting or cranking? Is heat a factor?

 

[jonheld]

Well, on 60-70% of the Cruisers I work on it usually seems to work. I was taught to start simple, and get more complex the deeper you get into it.
If you don't mind re-building things needlessly..... that's fine.

It is difficult to perform remote diagnostics. You're relying on answers from someone you don't know. The key is to ask the pertinent questions to get the answers you're looking for. When I read, "my truck won't start" I equate that to someone saying "this is broken". Without details it has no meaning therefore I can't make a suggestion.

 

[jonheld]

Ok so I'll check both here in a bit, neutral safety switch is this under the center console above the trans? I've heard of bad connections at this point in the system, dirt etc. 26years of grime good cleaning and boom good to go. If the neutral safety has poor contact will this also prevent it from starting or cranking? Is heat a factor?

The NSS is a pie shaped item on the driver's side of the transmission. It has a harness that exits at the top and goes over the transmission housing and terminates to 2 connectors on the passenger side just above the starter.
One thing you could try is to shift into neutral the next time you get a "no crank", but if the internals of the NSS are corroded, this might not help.
Are you getting the correct display on the dash for the gear selector? That is part of the NSS as well.

 

[Marine7]

It is difficult to perform remote diagnostics. You're relying on answers from someone you don't know. The key is to ask the pertinent questions to get the answers you're looking for. When I read, "my truck won't start" I equate that to someone saying "this is broken". Without details it has no meaning therefore I can't make a suggestion.

I agree, that's why anytime I try to troubleshoot I try to start with the easiest, quickest, things that have worked in the past. I DONT like reaching over, and into a lifted Cruiser w/ ARB front bumpers, or all the other obstacles there are. Check V, check links, verify check engine light, feel relays, inspect relay connections, changes refrigerator light, etc, etc.
To the OP...... hang in there, someone that lived thru the exact same problem will stumble across this post sooner or later! Good Luck!

 

[jdayment]

Is there any aftermarket alarms or remote starters on the vehicle?

 

[Tpurdin]

The NSS is a pie shaped item on the driver's side of the transmission. It has a harness that exits at the top and goes over the transmission housing and terminates to 2 connectors on the passenger side just above the starter.
One thing you could try is to shift into neutral the next time you get a "no crank", but if the internals of the NSS are corroded, this might not help.
Are you getting the correct display on the dash for the gear selector? That is part of the NSS as well.

Let man ask you this does the NSs go out on these, is it a common fail point? Being that it is on the cat side of the truck could heat be a factor? I know it is not recommended but could you jump the nss in a stranded situation?

 

[jonheld]

Let man ask you this does the NSs go out on these, is it a common fail point? Being that it is on the cat side of the truck could heat be a factor? I know it is not recommended but could you jump the nss in a stranded situation?

Yes, you can jump out the NSS by shorting the 2 terminals in the circular 2 pin connector by the starter. However, I strongly recommend that you do some diagnosis on your issue before going down the primrose path. Put a meter on the logic pin of the starter and see what you're getting first. Don't start shotgunning this.

 

[LazyEye]

well my issue turned out to be the starter solenoid. so i ordered the starter repair kit from toyota and will pick it up tomorrow. will update after i rebuild the solenoid.

 

[Marine7]

Outstanding, glad you found it!!