'91 4runner SAS

[Cube Dweller]

After a trip thru the Rubicon last fall I decided to do an SAS on my 4Runner. It was pretty obvious that IFS, even with a 4" lift kit and a locker wasn't ideal for large rocks. I ordered the IFS Eliminator Kit from Trail Gear. I had picked up a solid axle out of an '84 more than a year ago just to have on hand and it was a good deal. Found a hi pinion elocker at a wrecking yard in Reno and regeared it to 4.88. I modified the housing for the elocker, replaced all the bearings and got it ready to go. Also decided to run the ARP knuckle studs and had my stock birfs heat treated by Bobby Long.

Here's the before pic:

 

[Cube Dweller]

I'm guessing it took me 4 hours to unbolt the dif, control arms, torsion bars, etc. I wanted to save all this stuff because it does have value on the boards. After all, I bought it used to begin with Here's the pic of it empty, but brackets in place. Time for the gas axe

 

[Cube Dweller]

On the passenger side there are multiple gas and brake lines. Stuff like that worries me when I'm running a cutting torch So I took multiple rags, got them wet and wrapped them around the lines. Still set one on fire when I was burning the hole for the rear shackle mount!!! Also had to put a load on the pitman arm with my good puller, then put the torch on it. Once it got hot enough it popped loose. I left a pretty good margin between the frame and the brackets. An iron worker told me that on booms there are rules about margins to leave when running the cutting torch- how much metal you should leave for grinding so you don't get it too hot. Anyway, post cutting.

 

[Cube Dweller]

One of the challenges is burning the holes for the rear shackles. Trail-Gear supplies nice templates that fit in the body mount, so there is no question where the holes should be, but Toyota added diagonal bracing inside the frame rail. This makes it a real challenge (for me anyways) to cut the holes cleanly. I ended up trying to gouge the cross brace with the torch, but it was ugly. I ended up getting the bottom of the frame rail too hot on one side so I'm going to pick up some 1/4 or 5/16 plate and plate the frame for about 12" on the bottom. That should be overkill on the reinforcement. A plasma torch would probably make this part much easier. Maybe Santa will be good to me this year No pics of the butcher job, why advertise....

 

[Cube Dweller]

Shoot, thought I had some pics of the frame rails after grinding. It was definitely a grindathon, but not nearly as bad as when I cut out the rear coils and converted to leafs. Anyways, it cleaned up pretty well, I used a 4.5" Milwaukee with GOOD quality grinding wheels. My guess is 3-4 hours of grinding. Cross Iron Worker Apprentice off my list of future careers, IH8Grinding.

 

[Cube Dweller]

Here's a pic after I got it bolted up. Tons of little stuff to do, shocks, shock towers, plate the motor mount, center the steering wheel, come up with some brake line mounts, reflare some metal brake lines, etc. I also need to call Trail-Gear as apparently they make 2 different shock towers and I have the long ones, where you need to cut the inner fender and extend the shock hoop into the engine compartment. My goal for this rig is a comfortable daily driver, capable of completing the Rubicon w/out breaking, but also fine to drive to Moab or Death Valley.

 

[Cube Dweller]

Overall, I'm really happy with the kit. Decent instructions, quality looks good, everything was included. Be sure to specify if you want the long hoops or short for the shocks though, and also let them know what year axle you're going to install. I forgot to tell them so they sent me round U bolts for both sides. They have great customer service, they answered the phone at 6pm one day and sent me out the square ones, no charge.

I do have one issue though- it appears like the taper is too deep on the steering arms for the TRE's, you can see how squished the bellows are. I also could not get up to 67 ft lbs of torque (with never seize on threads) until a place a washer under the castle nut, which is not good. The hole was also beyond the cut out in the castle nut, basically rendering it useless. In the previous post you can see our stock FJ80- I checked the TRE's on that truck and they do not appear as deep. Going to call them tomorrow on this and the shock issue.

 

[Cube Dweller]

BTW, I ordered the 5" kit, but the springs have 4" painted on them. Not sure what this means. It's a bit taller than it was w/ the 4" IFS lift kit with a slight crank on the torsion bars. The springs are supposed to settle at least an inch, plus I'm planning on runner a winch and building a heavier than stock bumper. So I think it will level out pretty well. Plus I will probably add a leaf in the back on the F150's so on expedition trips, fully loaded, it won't sag as much.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Looks like fun.

I'm ordering 4.7 marlin gears today, and I'm afraid that the path I'm on is going to lead to a SAS..... well, more like hoping!

 

[yzftaco]

Dang Cube,

Making good progress!! Looks good.... Can't wait to see it in action!

 

[robinhood4x4]

Huh, I'm in the process of a SAS too. I read about the shock hoop thing so I requested the 12 inch hoops and shocks, but they still sent me the long ones. Called them back and they sent me the correct ones. Also, I didn't tell them what axle I was using and they just sent me both the square U-bolts and the round ones. But they did forget to give me the long one for one of the mounts. Another call and they sent me the correct one.

I also thought the rear leaf swap was much easier than the front, different from what everyone else says, I know.

Are you using the spacers and the stock aluminum wheels? The studs look kinda short to me, but I haven't tried them yet. What drive shaft are you using?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Looking great Tony! I still feel sort of bad about your trip through Rubicon last fall, but it looks like most of the problems are now addressed. What are you doing about gearing? Are you installing a Marlin crawler? Let's nail down this year's Norcal trip soon. Very nice job.

 

[Cube Dweller]

Looking great Tony! I still feel sort of bad about your trip through Rubicon last fall, but it looks like most of the problems are now addressed. What are you doing about gearing? Are you installing a Marlin crawler? Let's nail down this year's Norcal trip soon. Very nice job.

Then you definitely feel worse about the trip than I do. I knew that serious damage was possible when I left the house that day. The truck was underbuilt and I learned alot. But thanks.

I have a prototype Marlin crawler box at home designed to work with the chain drive transfer case. Crawl ratio will be 118:1 when I'm done As far as the Norcal trip goes, I doubt I'll be ready for this year. I definitely want to have the dual cases installed, the front locker functional and bumpers built, and I just don't see that happening in 2-3 months.

 

[4rnr]

looks good, I sased my 92 runner, its an awesome mod.

I used to run the springs you have now and you will settle more than an inch!! I settled a ton, but then again im running a winch and an exo cage. Also If you are running an auto you may be crying for 5.29's, but I guess if you keep runing the mtr's youll be fine. (my swampers kill me)

BTW I blew up a pitman puller trying to get it off, but I was carefull not to heat it much do to some guys melting the seals in the box.

 

[Cube Dweller]

Huh, I'm in the process of a SAS too. I read about the shock hoop thing so I requested the 12 inch hoops and shocks, but they still sent me the long ones. Called them back and they sent me the correct ones. Also, I didn't tell them what axle I was using and they just sent me both the square U-bolts and the round ones. But they did forget to give me the long one for one of the mounts. Another call and they sent me the correct one.

I also thought the rear leaf swap was much easier than the front, different from what everyone else says, I know.

Are you using the spacers and the stock aluminum wheels? The studs look kinda short to me, but I haven't tried them yet. What drive shaft are you using?

To me, the front was way easier. Access to cut everything off with a torch, much less grinding. But I cleared out everything in the back that wasn't necessary, I'm silly like that

I am running the spacers but I'm running steel wheels, so there's plenty of thread. General rule is one full fastener diameter of thread engaged in the nut (that's why nuts for 3/8 bolts are 3/8 thick) but that's a general rule, automotive stuff may be different and is governed by SAE standards rather than ASME and ANSI. Mine were fine.

I need to install the dual cases first and let the springs settle in. Then I'll fit the driveshafts. I'm going to run clearanced CV's front and rear and have them retubed in town, probably with .120 tubing. The guys I wheel with do a couple snow runs a year plus I live like an hour from the Sierra, so I want the ability to drive 50 mph in 4wd. So that means no square hitch tubing driveshaft for this truck. Trail Gear is supposed to be working on a long travel driveshaft slip joint so depending on timing I may run theirs if it's ready when I am.

 

[Cube Dweller]

Update: I sent the arms and TRE's back to Trail Gear so they could check them out. The TRE taper was actually showing thru the bottom on part of the steering arm. They sent me back new arms and new TRE's. Fit was definitely MUCH better, and the castle nuts were longer. Got them on tonight, was able to get the full 67 ft lbs of torque with no issues. Torqued and lubed everything, then took it for a spin. Got it up to 45 mph and felt pretty good. Tracks very straight with 1/8-1/4" of toe at the edge of a 35" tire.

Yikes, I still have a ton of stuff to do:

bend and flare brake lines
add bump stops
readjust the drag link to center the wheel
add springs to the brake lines

etc, etc.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Nice truck.

Don't you hate the list of little stuff that comes to mind when you get close to being finished with a project?

What's the old saying?

The Devil is in the details.