- Thread starter
- #21
Can y'all clarify wtf prop shaft bolt they're talking about
90k service. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TXMoose
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CharlieS
GOLD Star
I think it is meant to be plural, and it is the bolts that attach the drive shaft to the input flange of the rear diff, and I think probably attaches the front and rear drive shafts to the transfer case. I recently had mine disconnected to do the rear diff, but I didn't take anything off at the transfer case end. The front drive shaft is attached to studs on the front diff input flange too, so there are only nuts there, not nuts and bolts.
- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks for clarifying that
If you cannot replace cabin air filter and engine air filter. I think the price they are charging for all that is very reasonable.
I would add transmission fluid drain and refill to 90k miles service if its not already done.
Transfer case, front and rear differential itself will cost you close to that price. Again, there are ways to save money, but only if you can do most of the work yourself.
I would add transmission fluid drain and refill to 90k miles service if its not already done.
Transfer case, front and rear differential itself will cost you close to that price. Again, there are ways to save money, but only if you can do most of the work yourself.
You would be surprised. Inflation and oil price increases appear to have really driven up the cost of fluids.
bloc
SILVER Star
Good call. And maybe a couple more over the next 30k to end up with mostly changed fluid by then.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I feel like I have a reasonable pulse on current prices, but maybe they're moving up faster than I realize? I just bought two gallons of full synthetic gear oil last Friday, ~$50 each. I also bought an oil filter at my local dealer on Monday. I ordered other filters from Decatur (albeit at the sale price) the other week. Even if everything went up 50% since then and it was $300 in parts, that is still over $500 in labor. Maybe that's totally fair, but it feels expensive to me.
Yeah, looking at my bill it was $265 + tax for labor. So I guess 2-2.5 worth of work? I know the labor rate at my dealership went from $100 to $110 and hour since my last oil change in early February.
- Thread starter
- #30
I wanna say mine is even higher than that.
Also for everyone. I'm not worried about air filter n cabin air filter. Etc. I just wanted y'alls opinion if stuff like injectors. Prop nuts lube n tighten. Diff service was really necessary at 90k. Also I don't go wheeling and in 4low often yet. I can count on 2 hands how many times the truck has been in 4 low or off road. She's for the family for now. Thank you all for the feedback so far though.
The answer is simple. If you have the elbow grease and physical fitness to crawl under and do the differentials, grease, tighten the shaft bolts you will save a lot of money.
If you cannot, then it is well worth paying the quoted money to a reliable toyota shop. You may save a $100 or so with independent shop but thats about it.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I think this is directionally useful, but the work time involved for the things you actually need isn't 4-5 hours, so a shop that charges you for the time they put in, not some package price for things that don't need to be done, or some flat rate pricing, is going to save you a lot on labor as well.
In my opinion, dealer service is good for a few things: warranty/recall work; if the work requires proprietary special or hard to get tools (KDSS pressurizing rig, for example); if you want to have a pristine service history (perhaps for maximizing reasale value); you can't find a good independent shop; and things of that sort. Otherwise, they will always be the most expensive way to go for retail factory parts and labor costs. In my opinion.
I would disagree on the shop hours vs DIY hours (atleast when we do it 1st time). Both for my transmission fluid full drain and refill with pan drop as well as the coolant valley plate fix, I took more than 3 times the shop time to figure out how to do it. Because of lack of specialized tools or because I am doing it on parked car rather than lifted car. Learning the tricks etc. Again, I am a DIY person so enjoy it but for someone who is not really into that much, its not an easy cake walk like removing bolts and putting them back on. We have couple of folks who had issues unscrewing differential plugs. I did the grease of shafts and joints the other day and took 2 hrs just to move the truck back and forth and figure out what angle is best to connect the grease plug. (If someone gets their connector stuck, or bolt stripped off etc), these are the senarios a non DIYer can avoid if they are willing to pay the price.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I didn't say DIY hours. I am contrasting a competent independent shop to a dealer.
DIY time is so complicated that it is not really easy to estimate. I'm a pretty competent DIY mechanic (I've built engines, transmissions, entire race cars) with a very good work space, with a lift and nearly any tool I could possibly need, lots of wrenching time under my belt, and I still take a lot longer than a competent mechanic at a dealer or indy shop.
DIY time is so complicated that it is not really easy to estimate. I'm a pretty competent DIY mechanic (I've built engines, transmissions, entire race cars) with a very good work space, with a lift and nearly any tool I could possibly need, lots of wrenching time under my belt, and I still take a lot longer than a competent mechanic at a dealer or indy shop.
- Thread starter
- #35
The DIY thing is a no go for me. I live in the middle of Houston in the middle of the Heights where land is small and parking is cramped. I also have some tools but not ALOT of tools. I'm eventually gonna get a bigger piece of property in the country and I'll put a shop and a lift there but until that happens i can't
CharlieS
GOLD Star
To your original question, my opinion: if money isn't a concern, sure, take it to the dealer. If not, take it to a good independent and ask them to do the important items from the 90k service list. My personal experience it that I get better work at a lower price from a good independent shop.
bloc
SILVER Star
It’s almost more important to exercise the CDL and transfer case then. If it never gets done it might not work when you need it to.
With 2 ramps and a floor jack the drivelines take 20 minutes and require no back & forth.
How I grease my front driveshaft
I've seen a few threads asking for advice on getting the front driveline lubed, and even a couple asking whether there are even zerks up there. Had to do my drivelines recently and figured I'd take some pictures of what I do. First off.. the equipment. No fancy grease gun or nozzle here. Just a...
forum.ih8mud.com
I did all the maintanance mentioned at 90k miles, but would double down, if you are not mechanically inclined or not in great physical shape or dont have free time to spend. Then you can spend the money and walk off and you paid
I know once we jack up its easy. But I dont like the idea or working under a ramped or jacked car. Hence I try to do all my work on ACH high setting.It’s almost more important to exercise the CDL and transfer case then. If it never gets done it might not work when you need it to.
With 2 ramps and a floor jack the drivelines take 20 minutes and require no back & forth.
How I grease my front driveshaft
I've seen a few threads asking for advice on getting the front driveline lubed, and even a couple asking whether there are even zerks up there. Had to do my drivelines recently and figured I'd take some pictures of what I do. First off.. the equipment. No fancy grease gun or nozzle here. Just a...
bloc
SILVER Star
AHC high would work too, then lift one front tire even 1/8” off the ground so you can turn it and you’ve accomplished the same thing without ramps. You’d just have a bit less room under the truck to work, but still should fit.
thanks for this tip. it will be much help next time.
