88 Hilux LN106 Planning Help!

[6FiRE9]

Hi All,

I posted the same thread on the Toyotanation forums, but I respect the info and people on this forum from what I have been reading, so thought I would add it here to get more thoughts.

So I purchased a right-hand drive 1988 Toyota Hilux LN106 (solid axle) with the 3L engine a couple of years ago. It now has 100,000Km's on it and is still in good shape. This truck is my fishing machine, I love to fish and that's the main reason I bought the truck to take me to the lakes. So I recently paid the truck off and now have a few extra bucks a month to maybe start saving for upgrades. So I'm hoping I can get some help/expertise to point me int he right direction.

So far, I've installed an alarm with remote start. I installed power windows (front only) and power locks (all 4 doors). I also got a custom built canopy, and a dynaflow exhaust, and a K&N air filter. I'm running 32" Yokohama Geolander AT-2's. I also (due to a rough ride) took out two leafs in the rear end.

So I don't want a rock crawler, and I'm FAR from a truck expert, but I do know that I have some options to make my truck even better than it is now, I just need to figure out the best options and start planning what to do first. Here are the things that I'm looking for, but would love to hear ideas and thoughts on if there are better options exc.

- Winch (I was thinking maybe a receiver hitch in front and back mount so I could move it around if I need to back the truck out)

- Bush bumpers front & back (Not sure if I should buy them or get them custom built)

- Snorkel (To help with airflow to the truck, plus advantage going through mud holes/water exc.) Do I have to go with Safari?

- Locker (So I keep hearing about them, I kinda understand how they work but am concerned about losing snow/ice capabilities by installing)

So that's what I have so far, and like I said I'm no truck expert and I have LOTS to learn but I'm just hoping to get some more knowledgeable people to point me in the right direction. Assuming my truck aside from what I mentioned at the top, is stock is there anything else I'm missing? Any other recommended upgrades to make the truck more capable/solid?

Thanks in advance!!!!!
Matt

 

[Chang-kuao-lo]

get a turbo set-up (turbo, manifolds, intake, blahblah, etc.) from a dead 2LTE (very easy to find), should run you ~$500. get some new gaskets, plumbing kit for a CT20, etc. and you'll have a turbo'd unit with very little work and less than $700 or so. mind you, an EGT and boost guage will be necessary for another $300. i think AXT sells a complete 3L turbo kit for ~$1,200.

relatively easy project for even a novice wrencher, and the performance on the highway will be like night and day. that's what i'd start with.

3L with 2LTE turbo, and top mount intercooler ('85 toyota MR2), in a 1982 LN:

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Open differentials are great on the road, and in mildly slippery conditions, but are not good when you get into rough terrain where you might start lifting a tire.

Lockers come in different types; Spools (or a welded differential) are locked all the time allowing no slip between the tires, Soft lockers engage when you are on the throttle, but disengage when you back off, and Selectable Lockers have a mechanism that locks and unlocks so you go from a spool to an open differential and back at will giving you the best of both worlds.

Lockers are a compromise on the road, spools will chirp your tires around turns and wear the tires out faster. Soft lockers are a little better once you get used to driving them. Selectable lockers can be unlocked, so they are not an issue.

Offroad, Spools shine because you have 100% traction 100% of the time. Soft Lockers work well offroad, but if you stop and back up, they will typically unlock for a moment and then re-lock in reverse. Selectable lockers are great offroad because they act as a spool once locked.

In the snow, a locker of any sort will want to make your axle slide sideways if there is any kind of side slope, however, with chains on you will be able to do some amazing things.

I hope that clears some things up.

 

[crushers]

seriously?
i would go with:
a 4 core rad
2.5" exhaust with free flowing exhaust
fixed fan
and most of all a pyrometer

then i would install a turbo (2LTE used units off dead 2lte engines bolt right on)

then the toys ...

just cause.

 

[Chang-kuao-lo]

i've been finding the clutch fan to be more than adequate, and mine seems to work just fine with the stock exhaust system. i can keep the egt undr 1,000 pretty easily.

but, x2 on the 4 core rad, staggered would be even better. i went a step further and had an aluminum one done up.

 

[Bogo]

i went a step further and had an aluminum one done up.

Why do people thing aluminum radiators are better than copper and brass? Copper has a much higher heat transfer coefficient. The only reason I can see switching is because the newer antifreezes don't protect copper, brass, and lead solder very well. That still leaves you out in the cold because the heater cores are still copper and brass.

 

[Chang-kuao-lo]

Why do people thing aluminum radiators are better than copper and brass? Copper has a much higher heat transfer coefficient. The only reason I can see switching is because the newer antifreezes don't protect copper, brass, and lead solder very well. That still leaves you out in the cold because the heater cores are still copper and brass.

because at the time there was a spike in copper prices, and building a bigger rad out of copper/brass was actually more expensive than aluminum. i needed a bigger unit because the stock one (1L 2.2l n/a diesel) wasn't wide enough to hold four cores.

otherwise, i agree with you 100%. an aluminum rad is more $bling$ than performance. one is just as well off saving the $ by recoring your oe unit.

besides, it's more about the combination of rad capacity and thermostat opening temperature than just capacity or material alone. you could have all of lake ontario as your radiator, and if you don't have a thermostat that opens at a low enough temperature, it won't make a whit of difference.



edit:
speaking of which, it is also a good idea to switch out the 88º stat for the 81º unit, if you go turbo on a 3L.

 

[6FiRE9]

Thanks for the ideas, sounds like the Turbo is a popular option. I asked my mechanic about that once, and he said he wouldn't because of the amount of heat generated and that the 3L's have a knack for overheating and killing the head/engine. I know it's am option and that you can monitor the heat and upgrade cooling exc, but will this shorten the engine (or other components) life? Would a Snorkel help at all with cooling?

Also, I like the idea of selectable locker(s) and thanks for the detailed explanation 2ndGenToyotaFan. Do they have any issues with reliability, ie: not engaging or having air hoses/electrical connections come loose when off-roading? Would it make sense to put selectable in both the front & back?

Thanks again!

 

[crushers]

if you are running around 8 lbs (and keep the fuel setting on the conservitive side) then heat is not an issue.
problem is, once the turbo is installed you are going to like the power. most of us want MORE POWER so we crank up the boost (and the fuel) creating more heat going into the head, compression of the new fuel setting will create more heat and ... crack ... out comes the wallet.

now you are heading down another path with the locker question, use of lockers will reduce the amount of skinny pedal you need to get through an obstacle, a good set of tires for the application intended will make the progress easier yet
but
once you do have the lockers and tires then you will tackle harder and more challenging obstacles. it is a catch 22 situation and only YOU can control MIBS.

 

[Chang-kuao-lo]

i've put about 60,000 miles on my turbo'd 3L and no heat issues so far. it seems to have a much better reputation for robustness than the previous 2LT and the thrice cursed 2LTE.

10 lbs. max boost, fully loaded (~1,000lb.) on a 6% grade @ 65mph it will generally stay under 1,000°F on the EGT and under 200°F for water temp, although i got to stay off the throttle a bit. cruising at level highway speed the egt is between 550° and 800°, and water is between 181° and 185°. i never needed to adjust the fuel settings after adding the turbo, it has lots of power (for what it is) and produces very nearly no soot at all.

if you set the thing up right, lay off the throttle as needed, monitor your engine management, and resist the temptation to raise the boost and fuel, you should be fine. honestly, for even a novice wrencher if you have all your parts and necessary tools lined up, a fella could have it done in a day.

 

[6FiRE9]

Thanks crashers & Chang-kuao-lo, I think I'll explore/research that a bit more. I don't really have a good shop or good driveway to work in, so I'll have to "convince" my mechanic that it'll be safe for my truck, you'd think he loved the truck more than I do!

Also I don't plan on doing any "extreme" off-roading, just want to get to my fishing lakes and back home with no worries. I expect to be in mud and/or snow & ice and possibly spots where I'll be with one wheel off the ground or soft soil/marsh.

Thanks for all the info so far, you've all been a great help!
Matt

 

[crushers]

"get to my fishing lakes and back home with no worries."

then my advice is this:

locker rear, leave front open.
33 skinnies max, preferably 31s.
8274 up front with second isolated battery.
keep on top of the maintenance of the vehicle.
done.

you want reliability then KISS principle comes into play.

 

[6FiRE9]

Thanks for the advice everyone! I think I'll start with the selectable locker in the rear, then maybe down the road (aka: after I pay off the locker) I'll look at getting a turbo

Also a great idea of an isolated battery, I'll be getting one of those as well!

Cheers!
Matt