Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (3 Viewers)

[aztoyman]

I was told my rear 4 link won't be here until after the new year. Not really a problem since I'm still working on the front. I really need that panhard bracket. Brian is going to try to get it to me soon.

So I decided to trim just a little bit more in my wheel wells and roll a lip over. It actually stiffened it up a bit. Plus it looks a little nicer and eliminates the sharp edge. Hopefully it helps prevent any cracking.

I know this is kind of a hack job but I don't want it to look like a hack job.

I definitely have easier access to the engine and steering. I think I'm done trimming for now.

 

[aztoyman]

I got my panhard bracket, got it tacked in position and started cycling the suspension. The bump stop is just sitting there for reference.

 

[aztoyman]

Here is full stuff and full left turn. My tire is just barely starting to kiss the lower link.

Looks like I need less backspacing. The wheels are Soft 8's, 15x8 and I "think" it's 4" backspacing. Tires are almost new 35/12.50-15 KM 3's.

 

[aztoyman]

Full right turn at full stuff is also tight. I'm going to have to drill and tap a different spot for my hydro assist fitting on my steering box.

The steering box is just held on with two vise grips. I need to decide on a ride height before I mount it permanently.

 

[aztoyman]

I had to notch the frame on the passenger side for the axle side panhard bracket. My initial cut is 1 1/2" up into the frame in order for the lower link to touch the bottom of the frame. Obviously I still have more to cut and then box it in.

You might notice I stuck the high pinion in as well. Just for mock up at this point.

 

[aztoyman]

Look how close the upper link and bracket is to the starter and slave cylinder.

My engine is temporarily jacked up pretty high right now. I "thought" I'd be able to lower it a bit after getting the suspension mocked up. Sure doesn't look like I can come down much at all. Look at the clearance to the oil pan.

I'm not putting in a body lift so looks like I'll be cutting the hood. I'll know for sure once I set the bumps.

 

[peacesells63]

On mine I took about an inch out fo the oil pan to get the motor down a bit.

Are you running ifs front hubs? Looks like it, but if not they will get you 1.5” more width per side without wheel spacers.

On the steering box, I had to do the same thing on one of my trucks, snapped the hydro fitting off on a trail from a tire rubbing. Plugged it and tapped in a different spot without issue.

 

[aztoyman]

Yeah, notching the oil pan is about my only option to lower the engine. I have to put my A/C compressor on before I make that decision because lowering the engine might cause clearance issues with the compressor. I definitely have a few things to deal with for space.

No they are the 85 hubs but, I have a set of IFS hubs I wanted to use. I was going to post up a separate thread on what I need to do that. I think the Taco rotors?

I have T100 rotors and calipers on it now. I saw where I have to machine down the hubs to fit through the Taco rotors. I just don't know the specifics for how it spaces out from the mounts.

 

[aztoyman]

Brian at 4Wheelunderground suggested that I trim the hump off the bottom of my frame rails for more lower link clearance. He also said it would be better if I use the top hole on the upper link bracket.

You can see my soap stone marks but I'm not sure it's worth my effort.....yet. I may still do it. My links hit the frame at the same time my upper link hits the slave cylinder and the panhard hits the oil pan AND the upper link bracket on the diff hits the frame at max stuff (both sides).

 

[aztoyman]

I trimmed more of the passenger frame rail after articulating the axle for max up passenger side and droop on driver side. Plus max steering. Took a couple tries to finally clear as it needed to be.

 

[aztoyman]

The upper link in the upper hole just starts to contact the forward bolt on the slave cylinder. I removed the bolt and it actually clears so I'll get a couple panhead socket head bolts.

 

[aztoyman]

At this point the shock is fully compressed based on just sticking the shock tower on. No it's not mounted. Needs a bunch of work first.

I did tack on the bump can bracket.

 

[aztoyman]

Notching the oil pan won't let me lower the engine unless I find a way to get around the slave cylinder. So it looks like I'm cutting the hood and putting a scoop on.

Raising the engine higher would help the clearance at the slave cylinder but cause other issues. A body lift would save cutting the hood but I don't want a body lift.

I'm open to other suggestions. Otherwise, I think I'm where I need to be.

I did see a build thread where the upper link was bent at the slave cylinder. The bend looked overdone and it ultimately failed so I think I'll leave my upper link straight.

 

[aztoyman]

Well I spent most of the day fitting up the driver side shock tower. Keep in mind this is a first for me.

The online instructions are pretty good over all but there are definitely details not covered. Brian is pretty good about answering texts but he's a busy man. So I'm doing the best I can and I appreciate the feedback I'm getting from Mud members. Hopefully my build answers some of the questions that others might have.

Both shock towers are to be mounted in the same position on opposite sides. Same height, angle,etc. Since the driver side has the brake booster and master cylinder in the way I did that side first.

Obviously the shock towers are oversized and need some trimming to fit. I trimmed the ends as needed to clear the panhard bracket and did a test fit.

I had the compressed shock mounted to the axle and the axle at max up, lower link touching the frame. The shock tower was too tall for the shock to attach. Plus it was so high off the frame that it would not clear the master cylinder.

I went back to the instructions and saw one pic showing the tower in relation to the master cylinder. Definitely had to be trimmed down to do that.

I also looked at the description of the shock towers on the website. It mentioned that they were designed to be easily cut to size before they are welded. That helped.

It's much easier to trim to fit JUST the outer shell then trim the spine section. I welded the two sections together once I knew it fit as needed.

So I trimmed it so the shock travel bottoms out just before the link hits the frame. It actually hits the shock bumper before that happens. It also looks like the pic in the instructions. Just below the master cylinder.

It seems like the shock tower should be mounted a little more to the rear ideally but the brake booster and master cylinder would not have room to be removed or installed.

It's just lightly tacked on right now. It clears the tire at full articulation but I'm going to angle it in about an inch towards the master cylinder for a little more clearance from the tire.

The air bump is just sitting there. I haven't set it yet.

Sorry for the long winded explanation but I thought it would help others avoid being as lost as I was today.

 

[aztoyman]

I still don't have springs. I need them to test fit prior to welding anything.

Also, I need to get a couple 90 degree fittings for the reservoir hoses.

You can also see it's going to take a few mods for the steering shaft to clear the shock tower.

 

[gnob]

Maybe pics are deceiving but it looks like you could go back a bit on that ds mount.

 

[aztoyman]

If I go back any more I can't get the master cylinder and booster in or out.

Tomorrow I can try and see if it's doable if I separate the two and try one at a time. Definitely worth a try.

If it gives me enough room I will definitely shift it back a bit.

 

[gnob]

Can you adjust the mount to move the upper mount out at all, or are you going to rub tire?

 

[aztoyman]

I don't have springs to check accurately so I spun the rings down on the shock to eyeball it for now.

There's maybe 1/4" between the ring and sidewall at max articulation right now.

I think you're right about it being better moved back. I didn't think of separating the two components today. That might make a difference.

 

[aztoyman]

gnob, thanks for your input. Definitely got me thinking. I'll post up what I find tomorrow.

That booster has the long studs and the shaft that has to go through the firewall. I have to really angle it up and towards the engine just to barely fit by the shock tower.