Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (2 Viewers)

[aztoyman]

I ran the 3 wires from the In-Cab winch switch to the winch and tested it. Works great. I ordered a 3 port Weather-Pac connector so I can disconnect at the winch whenever I want to remove it.

I noticed my alternator was starting to make some noise. A cyclic chirping every 3 seconds. I adjusted the new belt to see if it was the problem. Nope. Maybe a bearing or brushes?? It's charging at 13.2 volts. It's the original from either the 99 or 2002 4Runner donor for my 3.4 swap.

I've been thinking about swapping in the GM CS144 140 AMP alternator so might as well give it a shot now. Lot's of Youtube videos of how it's such an easy bolt in deal...........On a Tacoma or 4Runner. I have a 3.4 in my 2nd gen pickup with lots of other mods so I had a few more things to adapt. I took the time to document it in case anyone else is thinking about the swap.

It's a BIG honkin unit compared to the 80 AMP stocker.

Here's a side by side pic with the pulleys aligned. 4 rib on the original and 6 rib on the GM. Take a look at the mounting ears. The GM sticks forward 3/16". SOME PEOPLE had belt alignment issues on some threads I read. I did NOT. There is a hat bushing at the front of the mounting bracket That has to be pushed forward. It's tight so I used a 5/16" bolt through a washer and a socket on the opposite side. Tightened the bolt into a nut and it pressed the bushing flush on the inside of the mounting bracket. That allowed the GM alt to move forward that 3/16". Then you need to make a spacer or stack washers on the back side of the ALT mounting ear to fit the space.

 

[aztoyman]

Here's the pulleys for comparison.

 

[aztoyman]

The first thing to interfere with the fit on this 2nd gen pickup was the dipstick tube. I'm running a rear sump T100 oil pan and a block mounted dipstick. It was hitting directly on the rear bearing housing of the alternator case. I had room to move the dipstick tube but I had to bend the heat shield on the exhaust manifold first. That just took a small crescent wrench to bend the edge and finish it with a ballpein hammer.

Then I had to drill the spot welds on the tube bracket so I could rotate the tube out and rearward. I had just enough room to center it in the space between the alternator and exhaust manifold. Then I just rewelded the tube to the mounting bracket. I also had to move the wire harness going across right there. I just moved it enough to clear.

You can see the plug in socket and output terminals on the alternator. That's NOT were they were so I had to re-clock the case.

 

[aztoyman]

The next issue to address was lower radiator hose clearance.

I'm running a 3.0 water outlet and a 2nd gen pickup 22RE radiator and a stock 3.0 lower radiator hose trimmed to fit.

I have the same issues to deal with even with the stock alternator but I had to trim even more for this larger alternator.

So it's a balancing act to get it barely touching the adjustment bracket on the rear and hitting the fan belt in front. AND pulling it away from the larger alternator fan. Speaking of which, I had to use a longer belt regardless. I used another power steering belt. Bando 4PK1070

So I had to drain my coolant and trim the hose at both ends.

The spacer on the bolt in one of the pics is what I used to space it forward on the bracket. It's just stuck there so I didn't lose it.

 

[aztoyman]

The belt adjuster bolt is pretty close to my steering shaft but not too bad to access.

 

[aztoyman]

I had to pull one of my hydro assist hoses and try a couple different routes from the steering box past the alternator and clearing the steering shaft.

Lots going on in the space I have but it all fits.

I just bought a cheap adapter plug so I didn't have to alter my harness. The original alternator will easily swap back in if needed.

I still have to replace the 6 AWG wire with some 2 AWG and a higher capacity fuseable link. I wasn't planning on doing this swap right now so I don't have it yet.

It's maintaining a slightly higher voltage than my original. Settled down to 14.5 Volts.

 

[gnob]

two things.
would a 3.4 lower water neck help you with packaging?

i shortened up my alternator tension bracket because mine would contact the rag joint
Post in thread 'out with the old, in with the, well, old...' out with the old, in with the, well, old... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/out-with-the-old-in-with-the-well-old.355254/post-15072971

 

[aztoyman]

@gnob it's been so long since I did my swap that I don't remember why I couldn't use the original 3.4 water neck. I think it was way off in my 88 though or I'm sure I would have just left it on the engine.

I do remember using a shorter belt because of the rag joint. The shorter belt with this huge alternator had the fan smashing against the lower hose.

 

[gnob]

pic for shyts and giggles.
i can dig up the hose number if need be. iirc its 10 corolla. edit 21025

 

[aztoyman]

Thanks for the pics and info. I probably have the outlet in my stash somewhere.

 

[aztoyman]

I wasn't sure what my best option was to replace the 120 AMP fusible link so I used the Circuit Wizard on Blue Sea Systems website. I just plugged in my data and it had 3 fuse recommendations from "acceptable" to "Closest to ideal". I also emailed tech support. These are what I installed. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019ZBTV4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016HVDQ6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Pretty clean and super easy access. Follows the OEM schematic. I used a leftover piece of the super flexy 2 AWG cable I put on my winch contactor and motor. About all I got done though. I'll end up making a heat shield to protect the electrical stuff from the hot air blast off the fan and deflect it out the wheel well like I did on the passenger side.

 

[aztoyman]

For my birthday and Father's day one of my daughters got me a couple of tools from Rogue Fab that I wanted. I have a couple more on the way so I can start mocking up my cage. These aren't cheap but either is tubing. I don't have much experience with my bender and mistakes are expensive so this is the route I chose.

Here's a pic with just the two I have so far.

 

[Broski]

For my birthday and Father's day one of my daughters got me a couple of tools from Rogue Fab that I wanted. I have a couple more on the way so I can start mocking up my cage. These aren't cheap but either is tubing. I don't have much experience with my bender and mistakes are expensive so this is the route I chose.

Here's a pic with just the two I have so far.

View attachment 3929620

View attachment 3929621

I’m assuming that those are designed to work with a tubing bender and are the same radius that the tubing bender makes with the dies you have ?

 

[aztoyman]

EXACTLY @Broski

 

[Broski]

Hurry up and getter done so we can go wheeling
I’m not getting any younger

 

[aztoyman]

Me either!! I'm tryin!

 

[aztoyman]

Ok, here's some stuff for yous guys to chew on. I'm figuring out my roll cage. Starting with the Main hoop as the base. I'll post up what I'm thinking BEFORE I actually do it. Feel free to critique or offer feedback. You may or may not change my mind, but I always appreciate other points of view. Many of you have been doing this longer than I have.

I've done LOTS of reading on design as well as some rule books for some design ideas. Whatever I do is not going to be ideal and conflicts with some race rule book and not others. So it has to fit my truck and hopefully provide a bit more safety for my wife and I on our wheeling adventures.

I already mentioned I'm going with 3/16" bolt in base plates directly above my body mounts. I've read that straight tube is better than bends and yet bends are necessary. Co-planer can be better than multi-axis.........my head is going to explode.

No matter what it has to fit my truck, I need to triangulate, Close to the body as reasonable. Which is AWAY from my head and body, gusset the joints. I have to think of where my harness bar needs to be, my seat mounts (attached to cage), how it all ties together and making sure it doesn't interfere with anything I need to remove or work on. Pretty sure I'll be moving my ECM.

I only have two of the Prototractors from Rogue Fab but two more are on the way. I was just sizing things up today and here is my initial design plan just for the rear hoop.

If I want a 4 bend Co-planar hoop (maybe a small center peak bend too?) This is where things fall. The rear of the cab slopes forward and the side slopes inward so I hung a plumb bob from the corner of the rear window to find where to center my tube on the base plate.
You can see where the plumb bob is in relation to the body mount bolt. (In the middle of the 4 bolts) The soapstone mark is where I can get it close to the body, away from passenger AND inline with the tube along the floor to the front.

 

[aztoyman]

The cab is level, the base plate is level and the tube is plumb, Keep in mind the phone camera is pretty wide angle and distorts things. The rear window opening is curved, not a straight line. I had to make sure the top of the tube bend is in a place that will align with the A-pillar tube.

If I want to tuck it up higher, I have to move the hoop forward or do a multi axis bend. That will also be almost touching the roof skin. I am not putting in the OEM headliner but I am putting some sort of insulating panel in. I can also put a bend in the roof X-brace to get it higher.

 

[aztoyman]

Once I get the other tools I can make up the entire hoop and triple check everything before I bend anything. I have to make sure I leave enough room to get the glass back in.

All I got for now.

 

[aztoyman]

The other two Prototractors and magnetic tube holders got delivered today. Once I setup the opposite side I realized my first idea for the rear hoop isn't going to work. No way to leave it co-planar. I'm going to have to rotate the bends to fit this cab. Hopefully I can bend this up right the first try. Hopefully this weekend. Monday I am going to Wisconsin to help my daughter move back to AZ. That's WAY more fun than this stuff.

Before I bend it I need to double check my clearance to the cab and roof. Here's what I came up with for try #2.