Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap)
- Thread starter aztoyman
- Start date
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not yet. first truck i looked at was a bust. haven’t seen this one in person yet. guy is allegedly getting the ac fixed. then ill have a look.
this gen seems to be somewhat rare ish here.
lots of 89+. i just hate not having a real drip rail. i guess in hindsight it's a non issue with crank windows
sa through 95ish here too.
ntsqd
technerd
Within this body style, or in later bodies?
Not knowing where outside of the US Toyota made bodies I sort of lumped all of the international beds into the "JDM" classification since they all appeared to have the same feature set.
yes. not sure how much overlap there is with jdm to aussie market. the ones i saw were rhd.
the hook bedside is such a better design for actual work.
example
ntsqd
technerd
Oh, I know. This was "Patch":
Although our Cheap Utility Trailer's CUCV bed has taught me to appreciate floor level tie-downs in the bed. Enough so that I plan on flush L track in the rear of Snowball and surface mount L track along the outer edges of the next truck's bed.
Although our Cheap Utility Trailer's CUCV bed has taught me to appreciate floor level tie-downs in the bed. Enough so that I plan on flush L track in the rear of Snowball and surface mount L track along the outer edges of the next truck's bed.
- Thread starter
- #1,746
I've been waiting for a window of opportunity to get the bare metal parts in epoxy. Today Grandma took a couple of the kids out and about so I had to go for it.
It's not a lot, but it's something. I'm hoping I can get the flip sides done tomorrow.
It's not a lot, but it's something. I'm hoping I can get the flip sides done tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #1,747
Well I didn't get the flip sides done. I could have but I decided to give it more time to cure.
I had prepped the fenders and doors yesterday evening so I grabbed the fenders, positioned them on stands and mixed some epoxy. It needs to sit for at least 30 minutes so I did a final wipe down.
I'm doing the underside so I don't care if it's got a bug or two in it. I just want it white and to keep it from rusting. I'm not planning on top coating the underside unless I end up with extra paint. The outside surfaces will get scuffed, filler where needed and another coat before color. I actually got lucky today and no bugs. I'm hoping to do the inner sides of the doors tomorrow.
It's F'ing HOT
here again. It's breezy and the Mesquites are dropping a lot of crap. I'll have to set up a booth when I top coat.
I had prepped the fenders and doors yesterday evening so I grabbed the fenders, positioned them on stands and mixed some epoxy. It needs to sit for at least 30 minutes so I did a final wipe down.
I'm doing the underside so I don't care if it's got a bug or two in it. I just want it white and to keep it from rusting. I'm not planning on top coating the underside unless I end up with extra paint. The outside surfaces will get scuffed, filler where needed and another coat before color. I actually got lucky today and no bugs. I'm hoping to do the inner sides of the doors tomorrow.
It's F'ing HOT
here again. It's breezy and the Mesquites are dropping a lot of crap. I'll have to set up a booth when I top coat.
- Thread starter
- #1,748
I was setup to get my doors primed today. I mixed paint and did a final wipe down. I noticed a crack I didn't see on one door but even worse, I knocked the door off the stand and bent the front edge. No way I'm painting it today. 
The paint is already mixed and it ain't cheap so I always have a substitute part to paint for moments like these. So I got the one door done and painted the door hinges and the flipside of the tailgate cover. No wasted paint.
The paint is already mixed and it ain't cheap so I always have a substitute part to paint for moments like these. So I got the one door done and painted the door hinges and the flipside of the tailgate cover. No wasted paint.
- Thread starter
- #1,749
I have no body work training or experience other than this build. I've watched youtube videos but I'm pretty much winging it here. Here's the damage.
- Thread starter
- #1,750
I put a straightedge across the surface and marked the ends and the center high...or low point and started working from the edges toward the center. I tried slowly bending it with the crescent wrench first but I couldn't grab the edge like I needed to. So I used hammers and dollies. It took longer than I expected it to but I'm happy with the results. The close up pic is a macro lens view and what looks like a crack is a small dent from the wrench. I can barely feel them. It might not need filler.
- Thread starter
- #1,751
Then I had to deal with the crack. Same area that cracked on the other door. Just cleaned off the paint, welded it and ground it down with a die grinder. Hopefully it's ready for paint.... again. 
ntsqd
technerd
Feel it's worth the trouble to drill-stop the ends of those cracks, or?
- Thread starter
- #1,753
@ntsqd, I always drill the end of cracks in thicker metal. IDK if I should be doing it in sheet metal. The weld definitely fuses completely in this thin stuff so I never felt it was necessary. I even got my phone camera behind it to take a look. If it is better to do so, let me know.
ntsqd
technerd
I've drilled the ends of cracks for a long time, regardless of thickness, but I don't really know either. I usually back the hole with a piece of copper sheet that I found somewhere when welding it shut.
- Thread starter
- #1,755
Thinking about it, I would probably drill a hole on 1/8" and up. It's hard enough for me to not burn a hole through sheet metal with a nice hot tack without the hole. And a nice hot tack at each end definitely fuses through. I will definitely be more aware from now on and may drill a hole depending on the situation. 
Good topic.
Good topic.
- Thread starter
- #1,756
Today was windy and raining. I had appointments and errands that tied me up until the late afternoon. I have a 24 hour window on top coating the epoxy without sanding and having to prime again so I was determined to get the door hinges painted. It would suck to try and sand them and start all over. I'd blast them again first.
I managed to get them painted and had a little paint left. I wasn't planning on painting the backside of the tailgate cover but it was better than throwing out the extra paint. I had just enough for two coats and had just enough daylight to clean up.
I have a 7 day window on the epoxy to get a 2K primer or more epoxy on and not have to sand first. So my plan is to get seam sealer on and filler is also good to go during this 7 day window.
So my plan is get seam sealer on the inner side of the one door and tailgate first. Then I need to get the outer sides of everything in epoxy. And start filling dents. Thankfully they're all minor.
Once I'm ready to topcoat, I need to get a booth setup.
I'll be back to having to sand with 180 grit, wipe it down and get either another coat of epoxy or reduce it a bit and it's a sealer. Then I can topcoat in 24 hours or go 2K filler primer and block sand until I have a glass smooth surface before I topcoat.
I DON'T THINK SO!!
These trucks had a little orange peel from the factory back then. I'll get what I get with this single stage paint and no clear. No block sanding for me please. If I really F- up maybe a redo though.
Sorry for the long winded post with no pics. I'm trying to get my head straight.
I managed to get them painted and had a little paint left. I wasn't planning on painting the backside of the tailgate cover but it was better than throwing out the extra paint. I had just enough for two coats and had just enough daylight to clean up.
I have a 7 day window on the epoxy to get a 2K primer or more epoxy on and not have to sand first. So my plan is to get seam sealer on and filler is also good to go during this 7 day window.
So my plan is get seam sealer on the inner side of the one door and tailgate first. Then I need to get the outer sides of everything in epoxy. And start filling dents. Thankfully they're all minor.
Once I'm ready to topcoat, I need to get a booth setup.
I'll be back to having to sand with 180 grit, wipe it down and get either another coat of epoxy or reduce it a bit and it's a sealer. Then I can topcoat in 24 hours or go 2K filler primer and block sand until I have a glass smooth surface before I topcoat.
I DON'T THINK SO!!
These trucks had a little orange peel from the factory back then. I'll get what I get with this single stage paint and no clear. No block sanding for me please. If I really F- up maybe a redo though.
Sorry for the long winded post with no pics. I'm trying to get my head straight.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #1,757
They're late but here's pics. I'm okay with the orange peel. I don't want to color sand unless I F- up.
ntsqd
technerd
What orange peel? Looks great to me!
- Thread starter
- #1,759
Thanks. I think it does too. I like the old single stage factory paint look. It definitely is minimal orange peel but it sure isn't the modern glass finish of the base/clear used today.
ntsqd
technerd
I once saw a very rare, very cool Hispano-Suiza J12 that the owner had spent almost $100K on just the paint and bodywork. Picture this all black and perfect. It was flawless and it later scored incredibly high at the Pebble Beach Concurs, but it was not a vehicle that I wanted to be within 10 feet of for fear of somehow blemishing it.
Lately I've been wondering about using the paint(s) that are used on OTR trucks. I do not know much about it or them, but they appear to be much more durable at the expense of the high gloss - which I have no interest in.
Lately I've been wondering about using the paint(s) that are used on OTR trucks. I do not know much about it or them, but they appear to be much more durable at the expense of the high gloss - which I have no interest in.
