Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (26 Viewers)
- Thread starter aztoyman
- Start date
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Depending on what brand/product you're working with, many do have a allowable time period to topcoat without sanding. That being said, I never go for that option because you're basically spraying on top of a not fully cured base, which increases likelihood of reactions. You'd hate to go through all that prep work and spray expensive product just to have lifting or crazing take place, then you'll get to strip to bare metal and start all over again. I would definitely allow the primer to fully cure then scuff again prior to topcoat. It's tedious as hell and you're doing all the same work you just did again but bodywork by nature is tedious, time consuming, and going over the same surface multiple times...that's what makes good work so horribly expensive.
- Thread starter
- #1,163
I am waiting for some parts for the fuel system. The tank needs to be in place to figure out my line routing so I'm working on getting it securely mounted to the frame.
Tanks Inc doesn't recommend mounting it to the bed. They only included two small 3 hole mounting plates. No way that's enough so I'm working on a more solid option.
Here's the tank. I'm going to try to fabricate my own pump hanger and use a Denso pump instead of the Walbro units.
Tanks Inc doesn't recommend mounting it to the bed. They only included two small 3 hole mounting plates. No way that's enough so I'm working on a more solid option.
Here's the tank. I'm going to try to fabricate my own pump hanger and use a Denso pump instead of the Walbro units.
- Thread starter
- #1,164
I put a tire in the bed with the 86 tailgate closed and set the tank in so I could mark the floor for my cuts. Then I saw how bad the tailgate is bent so I pulled the tailgate off my 88.
One of the two cross braces going between the two forward bed mounts on the frame is right where I needed to cut. I pulled the bed and made the cut along the flange of that brace instead of where I marked it. Put the bed back on, installed the bolts so it's properly positioned and put the tire back in with the tailgate in place.
I mocked up the tank and it's too tight. I have about 3/4" more I can cut into the flange of the bed brace so that's what I'm going to do. The brace will still have plenty of material to do it's job.
I'm thinking I can add another tube between the frame rails to attach my tank mount to.
One of the two cross braces going between the two forward bed mounts on the frame is right where I needed to cut. I pulled the bed and made the cut along the flange of that brace instead of where I marked it. Put the bed back on, installed the bolts so it's properly positioned and put the tire back in with the tailgate in place.
I mocked up the tank and it's too tight. I have about 3/4" more I can cut into the flange of the bed brace so that's what I'm going to do. The brace will still have plenty of material to do it's job.
I'm thinking I can add another tube between the frame rails to attach my tank mount to.
- Thread starter
- #1,166
I have scrap pieces of 1/8" strip so I'm going to use it to make some saddle type bottom pieces to attach to the tubes between the frame rails. I'll put straps over the top and use the mounting holes that came with the tank on each side. I'll put 1/16" thick nitrile strips in to cushion it.
I traced out the shape of the tank and adjusted for the thickness of the 1/8" saddles and the 1/16" strips. Cut out a pattern in cardboard. Then I cut out the saddles and bent them to fit.
This spare spindle has the perfect bend radius so I bent the strips over it clamped in my vise.
I have to pull the bed back off to figure out how to tie it all in and get it welded up.
I traced out the shape of the tank and adjusted for the thickness of the 1/8" saddles and the 1/16" strips. Cut out a pattern in cardboard. Then I cut out the saddles and bent them to fit.
This spare spindle has the perfect bend radius so I bent the strips over it clamped in my vise.
I have to pull the bed back off to figure out how to tie it all in and get it welded up.
- Thread starter
- #1,169
I am heading that direction. There's not much left of the floor. 
I'm thinking I can make an aluminum cover plate to reinforce it all. Maybe make some rubber fillers to cover openings around the shocks and hoops.
I'm thinking I can make an aluminum cover plate to reinforce it all. Maybe make some rubber fillers to cover openings around the shocks and hoops.
- Thread starter
- #1,170
It would have been a LOT easier to just flatbed it or go truggy. TRYING to keep it looking like a classic Toyota pickup. 
- Thread starter
- #1,172
Yep, I like your idea. I can probably cover the tank and tie into the shock hoop cross brace. It would keep any leaking gas off me if I roll.
Or even a DIY tonneau cover over it all.
Or even a DIY tonneau cover over it all.
- Thread starter
- #1,173
Before I pulled the bed and tire, I cycled the suspension with the new tires and wheels. I used that worn Maxis Creepy Crawler to test fit a while back.
I need to trim a bit more of the forward side of the wheel wells.
This bed is going to need a whole spool of my welding wire.
I need to trim a bit more of the forward side of the wheel wells.
This bed is going to need a whole spool of my welding wire.
ntsqd
technerd
Maybe I've mentioned this before, but I'll say it now just in case: imagine hanging just the bedsides and for the bed itself cut up a plastic rigid bed-liner. Build whatever simple supports the liner needs to support whatever you're going to put in it. With some thought I think that the liner could be more continuous than the original metal bed because how it can be installed will be different than what you'll need to do with a one piece metal bed.
- Thread starter
- #1,175
@ntsqd, I'm almost there. Like I said, not much left of the floor. I need to do some serious fabrication on the section that the tailgate bolts to. There's nothing there right now. I need to get some structure at least tacked back in place while the bed is bolted to the frame.
The tailgate is just hanging on the side latches.
The tailgate is just hanging on the side latches.
You need to leave room for the 39s that are eventually coming it's inevitable
- Thread starter
- #1,177
I did 
May have missed it... what's your plan for inside the bed? Line-X type of coating or ?
When I built my 86 (never should have sold that thing), I took out the inner side panels and had the box - and panels - individually rhino lined... Goal was to attempt to stave away rust (was in MN at the time)...
Just curious. Popped into my head looking at the tank picks.
When I built my 86 (never should have sold that thing), I took out the inner side panels and had the box - and panels - individually rhino lined... Goal was to attempt to stave away rust (was in MN at the time)...
Just curious. Popped into my head looking at the tank picks.
- Thread starter
- #1,179
No definite plans yet. My 88 got Rhino lined by the original owner (buddy) and it's on there thick. I didn't want to ruin a good bed and that stuff made sure I didn't. There's no cutting and welding going to happen easily on that bed.
I thought about rolling on Monstaliner. Not sure it's needed though. Not much room left for any cargo to drag and rust isn't an issue here.
I'm kinda wingin it at this point. Suggestions are always welcome though.
I thought about rolling on Monstaliner. Not sure it's needed though. Not much room left for any cargo to drag and rust isn't an issue here.
I'm kinda wingin it at this point. Suggestions are always welcome though.
ntsqd
technerd
Brush on one of the moisture-curing polyurethane coatings (POR-15, Rust Bullet, Petit Rust-Loc, etc.) on the bottom. That will seal it from the usually caustic dirt in dry lake beds, like Means Dry Lake and others.
Hammerite or similar inside it.
Hammerite or similar inside it.
