Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (2 Viewers)

[aztoyman]

Yesterday I got the cab and bed set on the frame and started taking notes of any additional mods or repairs I need to do. I definitely need to make some more room around the front shocks and I need to "clearance" the radiator support to make room for my hydro assist hose at the steering box.

 

[aztoyman]

I need to finish welding the back side of the battery box to the cab floor when it comes off again. Also clearance around the holes for the cables to pass into the box. The rear of the cab hangs over and needs to be trimmed to avoid any abrasion on the cables.

It was good to see that I have plenty of room to get around the battery box with my rear brake line. I'm going to terminate the hard line at a welded tab secured bulkhead fitting and run a short flex hose over the crossmember to the line on the upper link.
Hopefully you can see what my plan is with these two pics.

 

[aztoyman]

My priority was figuring out a fuel tank. After crawling around under the truck and looking at the space I have under there I decided that I'm just going with a bed mounted tank.

I'd like to have the weight below the frame but I only have room for a really small tank and no good way to fill it.

I looked at a LOT of off the shelf options for under the bed as well as in the bed. I considered just a big flat one like a early Mustang tank, which is the trunk floor. I looked for anything that could go up against the front of the bed wall. Basically anything that would fit in the bed space I have left and hopefully leave me a little room for some stuff.

Based on how I typically use the truck and what I NEED to carry and trying to leave a little space for stuff for an overnight camping type trip I'm probably going to put a tank here. It leaves what's left of the bed in front of the wheel wells forward open. Should fit a cooler. There's still the typical space around the edges for a fuel can or whatever. I can always tie down anything else on top of the tire.

The three tanks I'm considering all fit in that spot. I will probably cut the bed floor out and mount it to the frame. It will be solid there and protected by the shock hoops and cross brace. It also drops it about 3".

I'm hoping to get something that I can run my Toyota pump and fuel sender in.

 

[ntsqd]

Just throwing this out there for consideration, what about building something like one of these?
Amazon link: Fuelbox Combos

 

[aztoyman]

The guy across the street has one in his diesel pickup. WHY do they cost that much? Even just a plain aux tank to strap down in the bed from China is crazy expensive. It is a cool idea for a smaller custom one for my size truck.

I need to hit the metal supply and see if there's any 5052 aluminum remnants on the racks.
I'll price stainless too.

I'm going to call RCI on Monday and see what they charge to make a custom size.

Edit; Changed my mind about fabricating a tank. After reading numerous off road forums discussing cracked aluminum tanks, I'm leaning heavily to the RCI 2161JW poly bladder in a steel can fuel cell.

 

[ntsqd]

I have no idea why they cost that much. Insurance, maybe? Figured it could be built for less.

 

[aztoyman]

Spent most of the day on yard work. I got out in the garage when it got dark. I managed to "clearance" my radiator support enough to get the fitting on but I need to get a little more room. I'll get some heat and a hammer on it when I lift the cab again. I managed to get this much with pry bars. I have bars like a golfer has clubs.

I also test fit my radiator and the fabricated shroud from the 3.4 swap in my 88. I'm going to have to fab up another shroud. I'm going to make a mount for the steering cooler too. It was just attached to the radiator with those plastic pins through the core. I'd rather have it so I can remove the rad or the cooler as needed without having to remove both to do it.

My 3.0 fan has seen better days so I will get one ordered. This style fan is no longer available from Toyota or even Denso so looks like I have to get aftermarket. Denso and OEM fan with the ring around the OD is still available. Most of the forums seem to say to avoid the ones with the ring.

Please let me know if there is a quality fan available. Otherwise it looks like Dorman or similar.

 

[gnob]

Fan Blade- Toyota 3.4L 5VZFE 4Runner, T100, Tacoma & Tundra OEM Cooling Fan Blade (1994-2005) FNT-005

Fan Blade- Toyota 3.4L 5VZFE 4Runner, T100, Tacoma & Tundra OEM Fan Blade (1994-2005) FNT-005

www.yotashop.com

 

[gnob]

i thought I saw one of the diesel guys get a new fan with more blades too. i can't remember the thread. but its in here since I don't go to the diesel section.

 

[aztoyman]

@gnob, I have the original fan from my 3.4 donor and it's bigger than my radiator. It's a little bigger than the 3.0 fan in my pic. I am using the fan clutch from the 3.4 as well.

All I can find on specs shows the 3.0 fan to be 18" diameter and the 3.4 to be 18.6. Maybe I can make the shroud accommodate the 3.4 fan? AND let the hood close.

 

[aztoyman]

This is one of the fuel tanks I am considering. Anybody have experience with tanks from here? This would fit perfect, almost same capacity as original and I can run my stock pump. Should be easy to fill.

Universal Steel Fuel Tank - U3 Series

Tanks, Inc. manufactures fuel system components and polyethylene, steel and stainless steel gas tanks for street rods and special interest vehicles.

www.tanksinc.com

Still looking at RCI aluminum tanks as well.

I do have to have something that keeps the pickup in fuel on steep angles. Climbing and descending more than side to side. My stock tank just had the fuel pump tray inside and it never starved for fuel. Even on some really steep climbs. I never really ran the tank that low either though.

 

[aztoyman]

No comments on the fuel tank? I was hoping someone had experience with Tanks Inc products. I'm still undecided on a fuel tank.

I emailed them to ask if the listed capacity (16 gal) was correct. That size should be closer to 20 gallons. They got back to me fast. Said it includes the mounting brackets and the radiused sides reduce capacity. It's a good fit for my space but I can get the same size aluminum RCI tank that holds 19.8 gallons.

EDIT; After reading a ton of threads on off road sites discussing welded aluminum tanks cracking, I'm leaning toward the RCI 2161JW poly bladder in a steel can.

 

[aztoyman]

Sorry for jumping around to different parts of this build. I just plug away as needed and jump to something else when I'm waiting on parts.

So I got back to the fan and shroud. Here's a comparison of the 3.0 and 3.4 fans sitting on the radiator. I had installed the rad so I could mark it's position off the fan clutch.

I don't see how I can fit the 3.4 fan. The 22RE fan doesn't fit the 3.4 fan clutch and the 22RE fan clutch doesn't fit the 3.4. So it looks like I'm sticking with the 3.0 fan on the 3.4 fan clutch.

 

[aztoyman]

This radiator, fan and shroud was on my 88 after the 3.4 swap so it should fit this 86. Same body style. The only thing different is the engine position.

On my 88, I didn't want to cut my hood or do a body lift so I lowered the engine. I had to lower the radiator the same amount. I made a couple adapter brackets to make it an easy bolt on fit.

I cut off the studs from my brackets and relocated as needed. I had to lower the radiator 1" and it all lined up. So looks like I don't have to fabricate another shroud. The radiator hose alignment is better as well.

 

[aztoyman]

Here's another view of the lower mounted rad. I have a new 3.0 fan on the way. This one hit the shroud when my T-case mounts failed. The engine mounts are still good. I'm going to add a bit more clearance for the fan before this gets installed for good.

 

[aztoyman]

I was disappointed to find that I can't run that steering hose where I wanted. It is blocked by the radiator. So it's got to point up and over and the radiator support still needs more "clearancing".

 

[aztoyman]

Back to my front wheel spacers again. The new longer studs got here so I pulled the front hubs....again, got the studs installed and took some more measurements. Putting this in for others doing the brake upgrade.

Just to clarify the pic. The rotor bore is 4.262" The OD shown is that same face of the rotor where the wheel sits. It's 7.208" The holes in the rotor for the studs to pass through are .575".

The OD of the wheel hub sticking up through the rotor 4.174"

 

[mustcamp]

Again, not much time on it today but I got gear oil in the front diff. Everything has oil in it except the brakes, clutch and steering. I engaged the T-case, locked the hubs and spun a tire to get some oil picked up by the gears and bearings.

The other set of limit straps got here so those went on.

I shortened up the last set of bolts that needed it. The 4 bolts for the rear shocks.

Torqued everything that doesn't need to come off anymore.

Tomorrow my plan is to pull the tires and drop it on the bumps, as low as possible in the garage so I can put the bed on to look at fuel tank mounting options. And where to put my tailpipe.

Maybe put the cab on. That way I can look at routing for brake lines and battery cables and whatever else needs to get figured out.

Gotta have a pic or two.

View attachment 3471686

View attachment 3471687

I'm confused... Don't the return springs go on the other side of the mount to retract the slack in the limit strap at ride height?

 

[mustcamp]

Back to my front wheel spacers again. The new longer studs got here so I pulled the front hubs....again, got the studs installed and took some more measurements. Putting this in for others doing the brake upgrade.

Just to clarify the pic. The rotor bore is 4.262" The OD shown is that same face of the rotor where the wheel sits. It's 7.208" The holes in the rotor for the studs to pass through are .575".

The OD of the wheel hub sticking up through the rotor 4.174"



View attachment 3475481

View attachment 3475482

View attachment 3475488

I’m using the exact same set up. Same Dorman studs and a 1/4” spacer to get my wheels to clear the caliper. This is on an 80 series housing with front range fab knuckles.

 

[ntsqd]

I'm confused... Don't the return springs go on the other side of the mount to retract the slack in the limit strap at ride height?

I've never felt like the springs were a good idea. If they are placed on top where they could retract the straps at least part-way I'm not convinced that they would survive the straps repeatedly going tight. I'm unclear on what they will accomplish when placed on the bottom of the anchor. Perhaps of bottomed-out would otherwise result in the two anchors making contact then they have a place.

As far the fuel tank goes, I've known of Tanks Inc. for a long time, but have no experience with any of their products.