Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (2 Viewers)

[ntsqd]

They assembled it somehow, I would assume that provisions were made to take it back apart, but some designers really like the concept of an "inseparable assembly" because it makes their life so much easier. Once in a very great while there's a good argument for it, but most of the time it's just laziness. I view it as lazy cheating most of the time. Unless it needs to have the shaft bores bushed to tighten them up I wouldn't take it apart either.

In Patch the second lever would have come up right thru the only cup holder in the cab. A cup holder that I used a lot since I tend to drive long distances. I designed my own shifter cap and a friend with a CNC made it for me. The parts that are incomplete are the pieces that make up the really long shifter rail for the 2-4 shift, and all of the air cylinder bracketry.
Ah-hah! I do have some pics of the cap:

 

[aztoyman]

Pretty slick. I think making my own would be a fun project. It would take a while for an amateur with a manual 1948 mill (no DRO) and I really would like to get moving on this build.

I'll get a pic of the bottom of my shifter. There has to be pins or set screws under the sealer. Maybe whatever is under it allows the shafts to slide outward enough to get to a recessed screw on the ends of the inner levers?? Splined or press fit? The inner levers are butted against each other and they're not that thick.

It would definitely suck if they were able to come loose and fall into the case.

 

[ntsqd]

Yeah, I was dreading making it manually on a step head Bridgeport, also with no DRO. Then Jack said "You've got a CAD model of it right? I can whittle it out on the Millicron 10 pretty fast since I mounted a mill vise on one of the tombstones." Talk about using a sledge for a flyswatter.....

I was thinking to use a roll pin for the shifter finger with a loop of Ø .020" safety wire down the center of it to keep it from falling in should it come loose.

I should finish it just to get it done.

 

[aztoyman]

How do you think the inner levers are secured to the shafts?

You can see why it binds up with the fore/aft movement when shifting.

 

[aztoyman]

And back to the wheel spacers to clear my calipers.

I basically just need a 3/8" thick piece the same ID, OD and bolt pattern as THIS surface. Steel preferably.

 

[gnob]

How do you think the inner levers are secured to the shafts?

You can see why it binds up with the fore/aft movement when shifting.

View attachment 3469547

View attachment 3469548

i would assume those are a grub screw.
dig the glue out and see.

 

[ntsqd]

I'm guessing similar.

Didn't I post a file for the spacer a while back? I don't know if the ID and OD of that file are correct, but I found it in my sendcutsend folder. $30.12 each if you order two of them with an estimated ship date of Nov. 3.

 

[aztoyman]

@ntsqd I remember you mentioning that I could get it done if I had a file or a way to convert my measurements to a file.

I can get measurements later if you can convert them to a file.

 

[aztoyman]

@gnob, I agree that it's probably a screw holding a pin maybe. I still don't know how the end pieces inside are secured to the shaft to be able to pull the shafts out.

 

[ntsqd]

No pin or screw visible in the sides of the fingers way up at the shaft center-line by laying the fingers over as far as they'll go? I was thinking grub screws too, but that requires a hub feature that there is no way to install in the housing.

It is simple to adjust the ID, OD and hole size of the spacer to whatever you want them to be. I can then send that file to you or possibly post it here. It's fast and simple to upload it to sendcutsend or Oshcut. Quoted it with oshcut too, less expensive to go with sendcutsend in this case.

 

[aztoyman]

Thank you I'm out at appointments again. I'll have to get some good measurements when I get home.

 

[aztoyman]

Ok here's some measurements. Best I can do with dial calipers.

I'm going to have to use longer studs like Dorman 610-463 in pic or ARP 100-7715.

Spacer needs to be 3/8" thick steel. I'd think aluminum is too soft.

Measurements are written on the rotor and the hub.

 

[aztoyman]

Regarding the inside levers on the shifter base. I can not see any pins or set screws down inside.

Maybe the end of the shaft is shaped and a press fit into the lever and pinned under the epoxy to prevent the shaft from walking out??

 

[aztoyman]

Lots of running around today but I try to do at least something every day on this build.

I got the triple shifters finished up. Tighter, smoother and painted.

I filled the trans with GL4 Redline MT 90. The T-cases are full and so is the rear diff. I'll fill the front tomorrow.

The limit straps should be here tomorrow.

I'll probably get the bed on and figure out what I want to do for a fuel tank. Maybe tomorrow.

 

[ntsqd]

You have a PM. Forum won't allow attaching any of the useful files.

 

[aztoyman]

THANK YOU

 

[aztoyman]

Again, not much time on it today but I got gear oil in the front diff. Everything has oil in it except the brakes, clutch and steering. I engaged the T-case, locked the hubs and spun a tire to get some oil picked up by the gears and bearings.

The other set of limit straps got here so those went on.

I shortened up the last set of bolts that needed it. The 4 bolts for the rear shocks.

Torqued everything that doesn't need to come off anymore.

Tomorrow my plan is to pull the tires and drop it on the bumps, as low as possible in the garage so I can put the bed on to look at fuel tank mounting options. And where to put my tailpipe.

Maybe put the cab on. That way I can look at routing for brake lines and battery cables and whatever else needs to get figured out.

Gotta have a pic or two.

 

[ntsqd]

A couple pics for inspiration or thought re: exhaust, this is my current project (not a crawler, a go faster mo betta in the desert) and that is a 3" tube, pics are in the build process - needs a little tweaking:

Hole in the 1/4 was put in by the PO so I had to either fix it or use it. FWTIW anyway....

 

[aztoyman]

That 3" stainless is tucked in pretty tight. Mine is definitely low buck comparatively. That through the side tailpipe location was my first thought until @gnob mentioned the noise factor. Still a possibility IF I put a fuel tank behind the axle.

 

[ntsqd]

It is tight to just about everything. Without well placed supports it will rattle on the frame and I still need to make a heat-shield for that spring-eye bushing. True, it is on the passenger side, but I only ever notice the exhaust note when driving next to some Jersey Wall. Truck does have two cats stock and when I bought it there was no muffler at all. Should have been obnoxious sounding, but it wasn't. I added the small muffler when I increased the post-cat tube size to 3" fearing that such a move would make it louder.