85 FJ60 LS swap A/C gremlins. (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 27, 2013
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Ocoee Fl
I swapped my 60 last year and got it finalized this year all except the A/C. I’m not getting power to the compressor! My A/C went out before I parked it for the swap. And I never did diagnose what was wrong before. What I have now is LQ9/Nv4500/split case. Using Holley Terminator X to control the motor. I have GM A/C compressor Mosley motor AC lines. I did the bypass on the A/C amp because the tac is the only thing that does not work in the cluster. And I figured if the A/C amp was not getting signal from the tac then it would not send 12v to the compressor. Still not getting power. I also had very high pressure on the high side and normal on the low when the compressor was running with 12v to it. So I removed the evaporator and Condenser and had Pratter Radiator here locally in Orlando clean and test them. The Evaporator had a clog which is why the refrigerant was not circulating causing the pressure to climb on the high side. Im getting ready to clean the evaporator box and add some new foam. I decided to replace the Expansion valve and check the low pressure switch. A Denso Expansion valve showed up but has an adapter. And when testing the Low Pressure Switch I’m getting a open circuit reading so I’m assuming that is bad going to look up how to properly test it.

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Are you sure that you bypassed the A/C amplifier properly? It's pins 3 & 7 on the female side of the plug that you'll stick a cotter pin in to bypass. Plug info below:

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In order to get the A/C to work with the LS Swap, you need to remove a resistor on the amp board that senses the tach signal. You can read more about how I set mine up below:

 
Has anyone used a 86 and newer Low pressure sensor in a 85 and back. And if so any issues? 80-85 part number that is NLA
Are you sure that you bypassed the A/C amplifier properly? It's pins 3 & 7 on the female side of the plug that you'll stick a cotter pin in to bypass. Plug info below:

View attachment 3997412

In order to get the A/C to work with the LS Swap, you need to remove a resistor on the amp board that senses the tach signal. You can read more about how I set mine up below:

Are you sure that you bypassed the A/C amplifier properly? It's pins 3 & 7 on the female side of the plug that you'll stick a cotter pin in to bypass. Plug info below:

View attachment 3997412

In order to get the A/C to work with the LS Swap, you need to remove a resistor on the amp board that senses the tach signal. You can read more about how I set mine up below:

 

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