maat
yeah nah maybe
why are none of the photos working in this thread? 
AltFuel '84 BJ60 3B WVO build up thread
- Thread starter MrMoMo
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- #82
why are none of the photos working in this thread?
Photos seem to be working for me?
Wow, almost 17,000 views!!! Folks, everything is still running great, if you have any doubts, don't! I'm still running WVO, and I fact, I am now also running my Golf TDi on it.
I have now built a new house, with a new shop, and installed a turbo in the truck! Its better than ever!
- Thread starter
- #84
Now using a dieselcraft centrifuge as a secondary process (filter to 100 micron, then centrifuge, then heat cycle, then pass through waterblock and 1/2 micron). Might seem excessive, but it works great! Here is centrifuge after about 40 hours on a 55G drum. Centrifuge is powered by a 1/4hp sump pump motor belt driving a Hydraulic pump motor. I run at about 110 PSI, room temp veggie.
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Really nice shop. Excellent turbo conversion.
How is the power of your turbo 3B on 100% VO?
In my experience the heavy LC truck with the 13B-T could barely keep up with traffic even on straight summer diesel and passing was usually out of the question. I had my doubts with the lower energy content of VO fuels, so I first tried B100 under optimal summer conditions. I was not impressed. It was one gear lower than usual nearly all the time and a 'dog' on the highway even empty, and fuel economy dropped noticeably.
With some testing B50 seemed to be the 'sweet spot' with performance and fuel economy. The change was small up to 50% and then both dropped quickly. I added a FPHE between the lift pump and the filter for winter sub-zero operation. I now run a summer mix of 30% BD, 10%VO, 10%jetB, and 50% pump diesel. The nearly 50% savings makes it worthwhile to clean the best UVO and biodiesel the rest.
How is the power of your turbo 3B on 100% VO?
In my experience the heavy LC truck with the 13B-T could barely keep up with traffic even on straight summer diesel and passing was usually out of the question. I had my doubts with the lower energy content of VO fuels, so I first tried B100 under optimal summer conditions. I was not impressed. It was one gear lower than usual nearly all the time and a 'dog' on the highway even empty, and fuel economy dropped noticeably.
With some testing B50 seemed to be the 'sweet spot' with performance and fuel economy. The change was small up to 50% and then both dropped quickly. I added a FPHE between the lift pump and the filter for winter sub-zero operation. I now run a summer mix of 30% BD, 10%VO, 10%jetB, and 50% pump diesel. The nearly 50% savings makes it worthwhile to clean the best UVO and biodiesel the rest.
- Thread starter
- #86
Thanks John! I figured if I'm going to build a shop, I'm going to build the right shop!
I always found my 3B low on power, but it didn't really bother me all that much, except on the highway. I did find quite a severe power /economy drop with our "Winter Diesel". There were times where I just couldn't keep up with th speed limit on the highway. Once I installed the turbo and pyro I turned up the fuel a little, and WOW what a difference. EGT's are in line and no black smoke, the power difference was night and day. I think I have a little more that I can turn the fuel up, but I wanted to try running on a hot August day before making the final adjustment. I don't notice any power drop when I switch to veggie, unless my filter is getting clogged! Usually when it's getting to the end of its life, I'll get a power loss that disappears instantly when I flick my switch to go back to diesel (that's how I know when to change the filter!) I run 100% veggie even in the winter, and everything runs fine as long as I let it get up to temp prior to switching over.
I think a big difference for winter running is that my lines are insulated all the way to the front, and my tank is fully insulated (2" styrofoam all sides) and its inside the truck. It holds a fair bit of heat even overnight. I thought about adding a FPHE up front, but just haven't had the need for it. I have on for my F350 that I need to install, but it's quite a different set up..
Above all else... (And I know you know ;cD ). Clean dry oil....
I always found my 3B low on power, but it didn't really bother me all that much, except on the highway. I did find quite a severe power /economy drop with our "Winter Diesel". There were times where I just couldn't keep up with th speed limit on the highway. Once I installed the turbo and pyro I turned up the fuel a little, and WOW what a difference. EGT's are in line and no black smoke, the power difference was night and day. I think I have a little more that I can turn the fuel up, but I wanted to try running on a hot August day before making the final adjustment. I don't notice any power drop when I switch to veggie, unless my filter is getting clogged! Usually when it's getting to the end of its life, I'll get a power loss that disappears instantly when I flick my switch to go back to diesel (that's how I know when to change the filter!) I run 100% veggie even in the winter, and everything runs fine as long as I let it get up to temp prior to switching over.
I think a big difference for winter running is that my lines are insulated all the way to the front, and my tank is fully insulated (2" styrofoam all sides) and its inside the truck. It holds a fair bit of heat even overnight. I thought about adding a FPHE up front, but just haven't had the need for it. I have on for my F350 that I need to install, but it's quite a different set up..
Above all else... (And I know you know ;cD ). Clean dry oil....
- Thread starter
- #87
Filtering set up.
Thought I would post up a few more pictures of my filtering set up for people to see.
First pic is of my two bulk tote settling tanks, 1000L each, in front are two 55G drums (yeah, I'm bilingual in measurements)
I dump raw WVO into the drums and let it settle, often for months. I then pump it out into the first tote, through a 600micron screen. Usually, it's clear at this point. After settling in the first tote for a few months, I transfer it over to the second tote at 100 micron.
Thought I would post up a few more pictures of my filtering set up for people to see.
First pic is of my two bulk tote settling tanks, 1000L each, in front are two 55G drums (yeah, I'm bilingual in measurements)
I dump raw WVO into the drums and let it settle, often for months. I then pump it out into the first tote, through a 600micron screen. Usually, it's clear at this point. After settling in the first tote for a few months, I transfer it over to the second tote at 100 micron.
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- #88
From there, it comes out of the second tote, back into drums, which get moved into my shop. These drums are fitted with 1500W heater elements to heat cycle the oil.
My centerfuge set up drops onto the standard 55G drum, it's a dieselcraft centerfuge and it works pretty well. It's spun by a hydraulic pump from Princess Auto which is spun by an old 1/4HP sump pump motor. Set up is a little backwoods, belt tension is adjusted by the C-clamp - but it works! I run the centerfuge with cold oil, at about 110psi. Motor used to get a little hot when it's hot in my shop, but with the heat sinks that I zip tied to the top (poor contact, but they work!) and a small fan the setup will happily run for 24 hours with no issues.
My centerfuge set up drops onto the standard 55G drum, it's a dieselcraft centerfuge and it works pretty well. It's spun by a hydraulic pump from Princess Auto which is spun by an old 1/4HP sump pump motor. Set up is a little backwoods, belt tension is adjusted by the C-clamp - but it works! I run the centerfuge with cold oil, at about 110psi. Motor used to get a little hot when it's hot in my shop, but with the heat sinks that I zip tied to the top (poor contact, but they work!) and a small fan the setup will happily run for 24 hours with no issues.
- Thread starter
- #89
After hours and hours of centerfuge spinning (usually between 24-48 hrs) the oil is hot pumped through a 0.5 micron whole house water filter, and a 15 micron water block filter. These filters currently show no sign of any material in them, which tells me that so far, my centerfuge is going down to at least 0.5micron.
The output of the second filter dumps into my 910L storage tank. Tank has a 120V 1500W element in it, currently my shop is not heated so in the dead of winter I need to pre-heat the tank in order to pump it out. The pump mounted to the top of the tank (with the filters on it) pumps straight from the tank to my truck, or car, or Jerry cans. I generally keep all 3 Jerry cans full for quick fuel ups or long trips.
My large tank has a a thermometer as well as a humidity gauge on the side of it, humidity in my shop is kept at about 55%.
The output of the second filter dumps into my 910L storage tank. Tank has a 120V 1500W element in it, currently my shop is not heated so in the dead of winter I need to pre-heat the tank in order to pump it out. The pump mounted to the top of the tank (with the filters on it) pumps straight from the tank to my truck, or car, or Jerry cans. I generally keep all 3 Jerry cans full for quick fuel ups or long trips.
My large tank has a a thermometer as well as a humidity gauge on the side of it, humidity in my shop is kept at about 55%.
That is basicly what I did years ago. Foam insulation around supply line and ran pex from engine to rear tank then returned it back to the second heater. I stopped using wvo because I think it corroded the injectors. Mabey try again but...would look for near acid free wvo.
If anyone can message me dirct, best place to install extra biodiesel fuel tank
Not getting on ih8mud as much as I used to so, would like ideas as to where to install a second tank.
I do not want to move the spare tire under the truck. Vehicle that I use, is filled with telecom tools as well as auto repair tools. I do both automotive repairs for other people and low voltage telecom installations and repairs for commercial customers as a subcontractor. IF anyone is in the greater can and Frasier valley looking for telco/Data/Voice/Server guy, give me a shout as a employee. Self employment is not the same so like to work for a small company.
The tank can be located over the wheel well or underneath. I did have a small un can inside the vehicle but again, its small.
I do have a mig welder that can weld steel. So, should I make it out of steel? can a sheet metal brake be used to bend the steel, then pop rivit and use sealant, or mig it?
Give me your thoughts.
Not getting on ih8mud as much as I used to so, would like ideas as to where to install a second tank.
I do not want to move the spare tire under the truck. Vehicle that I use, is filled with telecom tools as well as auto repair tools. I do both automotive repairs for other people and low voltage telecom installations and repairs for commercial customers as a subcontractor. IF anyone is in the greater can and Frasier valley looking for telco/Data/Voice/Server guy, give me a shout as a employee. Self employment is not the same so like to work for a small company.
The tank can be located over the wheel well or underneath. I did have a small un can inside the vehicle but again, its small.
I do have a mig welder that can weld steel. So, should I make it out of steel? can a sheet metal brake be used to bend the steel, then pop rivit and use sealant, or mig it?
Give me your thoughts.
Isn't steel ( unless stainless steel ) a no no for WVO?
Pat
Pat
That will happen with wet UVO. The water holds the acids and salts and is quite corrosive. If the UVO wasn't specifically tested for water content, then it's the likely cause. It's the most common "WVO" problem.
http://www.burnveg.com/forum/about72.html
If it hasn't been tested to be less than 500ppm, then it's not dry enough for motor fuel.
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- #95
If it is, no one told my WVO... I have run a steel tank and an aluminum tank.... And my veggie is stored in 55G drums, and in a 900L tank... Knock on steel, no issues so far... I can see issues if you get a lot of water in your oil, or if your oil is highly acidic, but otherwise it should be fine.
I've run svo in my turbo 3B in a two tank system for 10 years and tens of thousands, (perhaps 100k kms) of kms. I've yet to have an injector or pump issue. I filter through a 10 micron bag filter into a heated 55gal barrel, then heated svo is pushed though inline filters down to 1micron. I've recently had the head off and the insides look no different than any dino diesel motor inside.
Whatever I'm doing it appears to be dry and low acidity although I've never tested for either recently.
The main problem ruining engines is un-combusted svo creating deposits.........ie starting on svo or switching over to svo too early. Old mechanical engines like a 3B is far more resilient than the newer models with their computers and fuel requirements.
I run a heated fuel pickup and a couple FPHE and I have sleeve heaters on my filters.
Whatever I'm doing it appears to be dry and low acidity although I've never tested for either recently.
The main problem ruining engines is un-combusted svo creating deposits.........ie starting on svo or switching over to svo too early. Old mechanical engines like a 3B is far more resilient than the newer models with their computers and fuel requirements.
I run a heated fuel pickup and a couple FPHE and I have sleeve heaters on my filters.
I was thinking would it be possible to replace the rear bumper and make one into a oversized veggie tank? I know room is a premium in these trucks so this is a idea. Another idea would be to run a tank that is long and narrow on the outside of the truck rail.
Now, when you welded the tank, was the bead continuous or, did you use sealant with small beads?
Now, when you welded the tank, was the bead continuous or, did you use sealant with small beads?
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- #99
Hey Rusty bucket... I would strongly suggest that if you are concerned about space, build a swing out bumper and mount your spare tire on it, then make a tank to go where the spare tire was. Just imagine getting rear ended with a bumper full of hot oil.... Can't imagine that would go over well with the lawsuit hungry public or the EPA (though it is friendly fluid)
The tank in my VW golf actually sits exactly in the spare tire well under the trunk floor. Plenty of volume, so even if you made a tank the same size as your spare (though you could go bigger) you would get a decent amount of storage. If you wanted more veggie than diesel, you could use this tank as your new diesel tank, and use the old 90L diesel tank for veggie...
Tank seams are all welded solid... Just asking for trouble otherwise, remember, you are also going to be dealing with thermal expansion of heating the fuel, and using different materials will play havoc on that. Air test the tank to 1-3 PSI and spray soapy water on all the seams to be sure they are sealed. Don't go over 3 psi or you will end up with a balloon tank...
The tank in my VW golf actually sits exactly in the spare tire well under the trunk floor. Plenty of volume, so even if you made a tank the same size as your spare (though you could go bigger) you would get a decent amount of storage. If you wanted more veggie than diesel, you could use this tank as your new diesel tank, and use the old 90L diesel tank for veggie...
Tank seams are all welded solid... Just asking for trouble otherwise, remember, you are also going to be dealing with thermal expansion of heating the fuel, and using different materials will play havoc on that. Air test the tank to 1-3 PSI and spray soapy water on all the seams to be sure they are sealed. Don't go over 3 psi or you will end up with a balloon tank...