83 FJ60 Accelerator Pump replacement

[Pantingfish]

I have a 83 FJ60 I bought this past spring. When I took it to get it inspect I had them go over it and diagnose any problems. There were somethings that I did my self (radiator/ cooling system, few small vac hose leaks, and some other minor stuff) but the accelerator pump was one thing they said was bad and that was why it would be hard to start at times. It's slowly become worse, I've been driving this FJ everyday the past year, first thing in the morning it'll take 15 minutes to get started, lots of pumping the gas. I have a few questions

-how hard is it to replace the accelerator pump? I've never taken a carb apart how hard would this be for me? I've looked at diagrams on where it's at. The rubber on top of the plunger (not sure what it's called) is also torn/worn so I need to replace that

-Can someone link me to a place for an OEM accelerator pump/ rubber piece. Cant find it on Cruiserparts or cruisercorps

-Can I replace it without taking the entire carb off?

-Someone mentioned soaking the new one before installing it, how long should I soak it for?


Sorry for all these questions, I'm new to this, thanks

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I explained on the other guys thread....
I can go copy and paste it here. Really quite simple tho I get it that since it's the carb it might be a tad intimidating.
You'll need to get it straight from a Toyota dealer or @beno. The boot itself can be bought in a rebuild kit (if you chose to go that route at some point) from Kurt w/ @cruiseroutfit.
Soak it for at least 4 hours.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

For my '87, PN 21353-61020 $35.98 (price was fromjust over one year ago).
Verify that w/ Kurt or Beno.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

From the other day...

Yes you can replace it by simply unhooking the arm that attaches to the pump... the 10mm bolt it pivots on then slide it out of the top of the ACC.
You will need to remove the top section(air horn) of the carb by its 7 (?) screws.
It's possible you can then just tip it up toward the fan to pull the ACC out but you may need to pull one of the tiny clips to a vertical linkage (on the firewall side) so the whole air horn can be lifted off.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I just picked up a book from eBay the other day. It's so much nicer than printing the pages out but I do have the PDF links in my signature.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Sorry for the million posts but I'll also say IF it's a starting issue, it might not solely be the ACC.

 

[OSS]

You can verify if the AP is squirting fuel by taking off the air cleaner housing and looking down the carb throat when you actuate the accelerator rod. You should see a strong spray of gasoline squirt down into the manifold. Not a dribble.

 

[gregnash]

While you said that you took it to a shop to have it "onced over" after you purchased it you didn't really give any specific criteria as to when you see it being harder to start. I do agree that 15 minutes to start is a long time however there is something else going on other than the AC Pump and really for a shop to diagnose that (with what you post) out of the blue, that seems a bit fishy to me.

So with that said,
What exactly are you seeing that makes it hard to start in the mornings?
What has changed recently that makes it seem like it is getting hard and harder to start?
Is there anything else that you have noticed about the truck that is of note?
Has the truck been desmogged?
Other issues while driving once the truck DOES get started?

Lots and lots of variable here with all those vacuum lines going everywhere and all the different vacuum actuated valves and what not.

 

[unklwedy]

Make sure choke plate is fully (not 96%) closed. Adjust at cable clamp.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I was going to say as well HOW are you starting it? Choke, no choke? Pump the pedal a few times? Typically I start with choke pulled fully and three pumps to the pedal before ignition. Truck "ought" to fire right up. If its a cold start issue... how old is the fuel pump and filter? How much fuel are you seeing in your carb sight window?

 

[Pantingfish]

Thank so for all the info guys! I only have issues starting it first thing in the morning, the rest of the day it starts fine no choke or pedal pumping. In the summer I don't have to much trouble in the morning starting it, just pumping the pedal three times with the choke all the way out. Now that it's getting colder I find I have to press the pedal over 15 times with the choke all the way out then turn the key to get it to spudder some. The other acc pump symptom I have is that when I'm stopped on hills and then try to move forward is has a lot of hesitation/roll back. Also I can also see that the rubber piece on the top of the acc pump is worn out too. I'll do like you guys said tomorrow and take the air filter cover off and look down while the gas is engaged

 

[Pantingfish]

Also mine has not been desmogged. The PO has all the records for it, apparently the carb was rebuilt by a shop in 2013 (no details though so who knows what was replaced/done) , has only been driven 3k miles since that. I don't see anywhere in the records that the fuel pump has ever been replaced. Is the fuel pump in the tank or inline? Thanks

 

[4Cruisers]

Fuel pump is mechanical, and is mounted to the engine block on the passenger side, ahead of the oil cooler/filter.

 

[Pantingfish]

Fuel pump is mechanical, and is mounted to the engine block on the passenger side, ahead of the oil cooler/filter.

Okay thanks, I'll take a look at it tomorrow. I see after market ones are fairly cheap I might just go ahead and replace it or should I stick with an OEM pump?

 

[4Cruisers]

Last year I replaced the fuel pump in my '84 FJ60 with a pump from NAPA for about $60, looks to be good quality. And there's an eBay listing for a Kyosan (OEM) pump for $103.83. That's probably a little better quality.

 

[Spike Strip]

If your AP is worn out, chances are good you need a carb rebuild. AP will be replaced as part of the rebuild.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Last year I replaced the fuel pump in my '84 FJ60 with a pump from NAPA for about $60, looks to be good quality. And there's an eBay listing for a Kyosan (OEM) pump for $103.83. That's probably a little better quality.

I picked up mine from Kurt @cruiseroutfit back in Jan for about $85.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Okay thanks, I'll take a look at it tomorrow. I see after market ones are fairly cheap I might just go ahead and replace it or should I stick with an OEM pump?

Pay attention as you pull it that a thick black gasket either stays on or comes off with the pump. You want it on; its about 1/4" thick, it needs to be there. Up against that you'll add a new paper or plenum type gasket. I added toyota fit in place gasket (fipg) between each side of the thin gasket and let it set up a few prior to the bolts. IF an after market pump goes on compare the actuating arm and be 100% sure they are identical or it will get snapped off by a cam lob. I've been there... wasted $$ and finally bought the Kyosan pump and all is well. You'll need a wobble connector for the socket, and make that socket be a short one... one of the bolts is a bitch to reach.

 

[gregnash]

Pay attention as you pull it that a thick black gasket either stays on or comes off with the pump. You want it on; its about 1/4" thick, it needs to be there. Up against that you'll add a new paper or plenum type gasket. I added toyota fit in place gasket (fipg) between each side of the thin gasket and let it set up a few prior to the bolts. IF an after market pump goes on compare the actuating arm and be 100% sure they are identical or it will get snapped off by a cam lob. I've been there... wasted $$ and finally bought the Kyosan pump and all is well. You'll need a wobble connector for the socket, and make that socket be a short one... one of the bolts is a bitch to reach.

^^^This lady knows what she is talking about. Pay close heed.

If you are having trouble taking off from a slight incline there may be something else going on. Have you done a compression test on the engine to see what your numbers are at? Since you just recently picked up this beast it may be worthwhile to grab yourself some new tools (if you dont have them), grab the FSMs (Factory Service Manuals) from my sig line and then do some different tuning bits. Could be worth while to go in and familiarize yourself with adjusting the timing, changing idle on the carb, and probably even a good idea to adjust the valve lash as well. This will also help you get familiarized with these old trucks and how they operate.

 

[TexasBlue]

Check fuel filter, fuel line for crud. Start simple before you go head first. @NeverGiveUpYota is spot on with her advice. Her threads are always fun and educational.