8274 still getting hot WTF

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Okay I posted a while back and thought I had the problem solved.

Situation is an older 8274.
I cleaned everything and rebuilt the brake with the newer parts. New controler, solinoid box etc.

I re wired the cables over the weekened.
I am currently running "0" gauge welding lead. Direct from the battery to the power post on the winch. All copper connecting lugs and I soldered them in too.

I took the advise and ran the Ground cable from the bottom screw hole on the winch motor directly to the ground on the battery. Same 0 gauge welding lead.

The battery is fully charged, and the terminals are brand new Napa marine style. I am positive I have good power and ground. All clean, all copper.

When I power in or out. I just get a "Click" and the A post. of the winch motor gets RED hot instantly. By A post I mean the one closest to the driver side on the top of the motor.
RED hot boot melting etc. NO movement of the cable at all.

I know the Solinoids are not very high quality and will be replacing them this week. But would a bad solinoid case this?
The winch worked decent last year, with a questionable ground. and the same solinoids.

I stole a picture from Flint to to show which post is getting hot.
almostthere.webp
 
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Allright, I got some garage time tonight.

I replaced the short cable that is circled above with a different battery cable. Hit the controler and there was no longer any real heat coming from that cable. However this time no click, just very slow movement on the drum, Very slow.
I noted that the short cable next to the one I just replaced, Also on the top of the motor was now pretty warm. Replaced that with a short piece of 2 gauge battery cable. hit the controler, Now both are pretty cool, but still no movement.

I replace the upper left solinoid with a spare one. Unknown if that one works any better. But I try it anyway. Hit the controler and now the bottom right solinoid gets red hot on the right side where the copper post connects the two solinoids...

I Know that it is all wired correctly as per a few very nice photos posted on other threads. New controler and panel from Warn.

SO I have to assume its the substandard solinoids I guess......

Anyone care to put in their 2cents.

Thanks
 
FIXED!!!!

Okay, So I went to napa and got 4 Echlin Soliniods. Replaced all of them. Still just clicking and getting hot.

Took the motor off and cleaned everything again. Sprayed the inside of the motor very good and let it sit in the sun to dry out completely.

Took off the part that has the 4 magnets and there was the problem. One of the two copper wires which runs to one of the four arms was almost rubbed through. I think there were four little wires left in the strand holding it..... I think this wire got rubbed from the long screw which holds the motor in on that side.

I cut out the bad stuff and spliced in new wire which matched in size, and soldered everything back in.
Wrapped it up and put it back on the motor.

I also ran across this in a Land Rover forum for hot wiring the motor to see if its working....

1. Put the winch in freespool. (Make sure you do this)

2. Disconnect the positive lead from the battery (leave the ground lead attached).

3. Label and disconnect the three cables that run from the control pack to the three posts on the motor.

4. Stamped next to the three posts on the motor will be "A", "F1" and "F2". Run a small jumper wire (5"-6" dead lead, 8 ga. will work just fine) from "A" to "F1" and put power from the battery (jumper cables work good) to "F2". The winch motor should run in one direction at this time.

5. Next, place the jumper wire from "A" to "F2" and put power from the battery to "F1". The winch motor should run in the opposite direction at this time.


After hot wiring the motor it was running great.
Buttoned everything back up and have a big grin on my face. I was about to dump another 160.00 for a new motor.


So lessons learned. and they have been said many times about the 8274s. Get good quality solinoids. I got mine from napa part number ECH ST81. which I cross referened to a rockauto part number. 26 bucks a piece but I wanted them now versus waiting to have them shipped. FWIW these are made in the USA as well.

Got 0 welding lead and copper lugs. Soldered them all in.
Got new marine battery postes from Napa. and cleaned everything up before I installed them.

I tapped out the hole like everyone said to do on the bottom of the motor for my ground and ran that back to the battery directly.

I also ran a new welding lead ground from the battery to the frame just to be on the safe side.

I cleaned every piece of copper on the soliniod pack with the wire wheel so there were no issues with corrosion.


Gotta find somewhere to use it now. Maybe some shrub removal to start spring off right.
 
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