82 FJ60 Land Cruiser: What was the first thing you did??

[Gunner90]

Hey all, I recently sold my 09 Tundra and found this glorious 1982 FJ60 Land Cruiser with 160k original miles on it! The truck is in fairly good condition, some TLC is needed for sure as this just sat out in a driveway for the past 4 years in the middle of nowhere, but its solid! The previous owner put Toyo Open Country's on it so don't mind the giant wheels (not my cup of tea). Anyways, the only issues the truck has are the following: Rust on the rain gutters (none on the frame or anywhere else I've found, the infamous crack in the dashboard and the ac condenser leaking (it's fairly minimal). Obviously the rust I'm going to take to a local shop and have done, the crack in the dash is probably going to be remedied through a new dash from Specter or Cruiser Corps and I'm still researching the AC condenser leak (I've seen some say it could be the drain hole clogged). This is all in due time and no rush but I'd like to get some other opinions on what the first thing you all did, whether mechanically or cosmetic. I know I want to redo the interior carpet and the headliner of course, but she's all original and she's mine! No car payment anymore! I do plan simple replaces like the hoses and stuff that are fairly easy like that. Let me know the first things you guys did when you brought home your FJ60!

 

[brownbear]

My first thing I had to do was replace my springs. They were toast. You're sitting pretty good there. That's a nice stance. Don't like the wheels? They could be sold very easily as they look pretty sweet.

 

[bfoldy]

Yeah, I like the stance too...looks really good in the picture. If it's been sitting for 4 years, I'd say just start driving it and see what needs immediate attention. You might want to check the date code on those tires. If they're more than 5 years old, I say replace them asap if you're doing any kind of highway driving.

 

[SteveH]

Sharp truck. I'm sure you want to just drive it, but check ALL the fluids for level and condition - both diffs, trans, xfer, etc. Change the coolant immediately, and check all rubber cooling system hoses first, including the rear heater lines. Don't wait on this. Assume no PM has been done in a LONG time.

 

[The Phoenician]

Installed sliders.

 

[Big Timber]

I'm in your situation as well and going to change all fluids and hoses I can first. Concentrate on the mechanical first, cosmetics later and just drive it. No need to get in a hurry on the cosmetic stuff.

 

[aviafx]

Welcome!
The first thing I did was I drove the truck on a long stretch of straight county road with a big goofy smile on my face.
Once I dug into it, replaced the cooling/heater hoses/water pump (some of the hoses crumbled apart, glad I did this first), fuel hoses, brake hoses, vacuum hoses, fluids... I'd assume many parts could be 37 years old and at least need a good inspection.

 

[zakthor]

First thing is replace all the fluids, transmission, transfer, both diffs, engine oil, power steering, COOLANT, bleed clutch slave, brakes. Change fuel filter, air filter, oil filter, and all the belts. Check the e-brake.

Finally those big stupid tires handle badly on the road and get terrible mileage. I never ever go in mud so I replaced with stock wheels and some Michelin ltx.

Put in a modern stereo head unit, some better speakers in the front doors.

 

[zakthor]

Welcome!
The first thing I did was I drove the truck on a long stretch of straight county road with a big goofy smile on my face.
Once I dug into it, replaced the cooling/heater hoses/water pump (some of the hoses crumbled apart, glad I did this first), fuel hoses, brake hoses, vacuum hoses, fluids... I'd assume many parts could be 37 years old and at least need a good inspection.

I think with hoses it depends on condition. If they're cracking and feel nasty then replace. If they're like new then just keep an eye on it. At least that's what I did.

I forgot to mention that you should consider a new battery and building yourself new battery cables, but only when you get charging problems. I found a cheap cigarette lighter voltage meter from amazon was a great help in diagnosing electrical issues. My alternator needed a rebuild within 3 years, which is when I bucked up and replaced my cracked and leaking batteries.

 

[Willard]

First things were to pull the horrible roof basket and bull bumper off and remove the dead dragon fly off the dashboard.

Second things was to go though the brakes, hoses, fluids, plugs, cap, rotor, leads and fix all leaks.

 

[Gretsch]

First things for me were more out of need to get the truck workable. On the drive home from purchasing mine, it tried to shut off at highway speeds. Caused a pretty violent bucking (and caused many "What have I done" moments on the trip home). Diagnosed (with much help from this forum) to be ICS bad grounds at the emissions control 'computer'. Bypassed the grounds for a bit using the carb ground bypass trick, but then more recently fixed the grounds proper on the control computer PCB. Idles fine now and no more highway cut outs at 70 MPH.

I immediately replaced my PS pump, pulley, and related hoses as the original had a sheared woodruff key which messed up the shaft keyway. Also changed the gear oil in both diffs (trans/transfer was fresh from previously done work by the PO) and the engine oil and filter. Had a heater hose burst while driving shortly after purchase which starting me down the road of replacing all coolant hoses, regardless of condition along with the WP, fan, fan clutch, belts, heater control valve, as well as the front timing cover seal and gasket. I wouldn't really look to much into the condition of hoses and just start replacing them a bit at a time. I got mine to a good starting point with the major cooling system work but now am slowly replacing all the coolant hoses that are still old (a few heater hoses left). I put a new head unit in it and a CB. Been replacing various broken interior lights and little cosmetic things a bit at a time since then.

For yours I personally would get some stocker wheels and ditch the wide tires, but that's just me. Stance looks good. That's a big step you don't have to worry about. Great looking truck. Congrats. Mine is also root beer. Day I brought it home:

After some work:

Needs springs, shocks, front axle seals and knuckle rebuild done.

I'll echo what other have said here. Fluids drained and refilled, hoses replaced, maybe check TREs for play and replace as needed. Just get a good functional baseline initially and go from there. Again, congrats on your new friend.

 

[John Staton]

First thing I did with my '83, 148K mile truck purchased from a guy in AZ off of ebay:
Fix horn
Fix emergency brake
galley plug fixed
fixed any fluid leaks
new alternator
new dash lights
new suspension and tie rods
desmog
Weber carb, cat delete, new exhaust, headers
fix AC leak
H55 5speed
new front seatbelts
New fuel tank from dealer under recall
new carpet kit
clear tint on all windows including windshield
drawers in the back
go hunting and enjoy the heck out of it.

 

[Freewheel]

First thing was pull the wheels off and make sure the brakes weren't just pretending to work. Despite what you may hear on this forum, properly operating stock brakes on a stock rig work just fine. Unfortunately there's a lot of different parts that can fail or partially fail and nibble away at the stopping power. So, if it's stopping like a '68 volkswagen van, pull the calipers to make sure the some of the brake pistons aren't seized and make sure the rears are adjusted properly .(And also not seized- this can happen pretty easily on a truck that's been sitting for a few years)
If the brake master looks old, or the fluid looks old and there's crap in the fluid, just go ahead and replace the master cylinder- It's arguably the single most important piece of equipment on the car and they don't last very long if brake flushes aren't done every couple of years.

Then ALL the other fluids, as everyone else has said.

Second round of checks are radiator, rad cap, fan clutch and water pump.

Third round make sure the steering is solid, that the tie rods and drag links are not about to fly apart at the first bumpy corner you take.

Then drive it and see what pops up- make sure all the gauges work properly so you can see if you're overheating or your battery isn't charging.

And then everything else can happen in good time...

 

[Gunner90]

First thing I did with my '83, 148K mile truck purchased from a guy in AZ off of ebay:
Fix horn
Fix emergency brake
galley plug fixed
fixed any fluid leaks
new alternator
new dash lights
new suspension and tie rods
desmog
Weber carb, cat delete, new exhaust, headers
fix AC leak
H55 5speed
new front seatbelts
New fuel tank from dealer under recall
new carpet kit
clear tint on all windows including windshield
drawers in the back
go hunting and enjoy the heck out of it.
View attachment 1951081

Yup, my horn is toast too.

 

[Gunner90]

First things for me were more out of need to get the truck workable. On the drive home from purchasing mine, it tried to shut off at highway speeds. Caused a pretty violent bucking (and caused many "What have I done" moments on the trip home). Diagnosed (with much help from this forum) to be ICS bad grounds at the emissions control 'computer'. Bypassed the grounds for a bit using the carb ground bypass trick, but then more recently fixed the grounds proper on the control computer PCB. Idles fine now and no more highway cut outs at 70 MPH.

I immediately replaced my PS pump, pulley, and related hoses as the original had a sheared woodruff key which messed up the shaft keyway. Also changed the gear oil in both diffs (trans/transfer was fresh from previously done work by the PO) and the engine oil and filter. Had a heater hose burst while driving shortly after purchase which starting me down the road of replacing all coolant hoses, regardless of condition along with the WP, fan, fan clutch, belts, heater control valve, as well as the front timing cover seal and gasket. I wouldn't really look to much into the condition of hoses and just start replacing them a bit at a time. I got mine to a good starting point with the major cooling system work but now am slowly replacing all the coolant hoses that are still old (a few heater hoses left). I put a new head unit in it and a CB. Been replacing various broken interior lights and little cosmetic things a bit at a time since then.

For yours I personally would get some stocker wheels and ditch the wide tires, but that's just me. Stance looks good. That's a big step you don't have to worry about. Great looking truck. Congrats. Mine is also root beer. Day I brought it home:

View attachment 1950647

After some work:

View attachment 1950648

Needs springs, shocks, front axle seals and knuckle rebuild done.

I'll echo what other have said here. Fluids drained and refilled, hoses replaced, maybe check TREs for play and replace as needed. Just get a good functional baseline initially and go from there. Again, congrats on your new friend.

Very nice truck!

 

[landcruiserjunky]

I would recommend, in this order
-cleaning it
-new fluids
-preventative maintainance
-sit on it until you get a really good feel bedore you start modifying it

 

[Gretsch]

Very nice truck!

Thank you. The longer I own it, and watch others struggle to find theirs at the insane pricing the market expects for them nowadays, the more I realize how lucky I got being able to buy it for what I gave for it. Not as nice as some but about as good as I could afford. Its been quite a journey so far, but lots of fun.

 

[John Staton]

Yup, my horn is toast too.

there is a contact pin that is likely worn out and you can easily replace it. very cheap fix....you need to get someone with very good eyes to do the pin exchange as the snap washer that holds it in is very small. I got luck and had it on a small needle nose pliers and pushed it on the first shot....I dont see close up very well and went by blurry sight and feel.

 

[joebattle1]

First thing I did was a knuckle job. And boy was I glad I got that out of the way early.

 

[Rube]

Great looking rig. I’d start by changing all fluids, and then checking belts & hoses as previously mentioned. Then you should throw on a new fuel filter. If it gets full of crud quickly, I’d strongly consider changing duel lines and even dropping the tank to have it resealed if it sat for some years. After you’ve ensured the fuel supply is good, replace spark plugs, wires, and distributor cap and rotor then set timing and do the valves. After that start thinking about brakes, clutch, axle seals etc.