81 fj43 won't start, just click click

[John McVicker]

@Nolacajun75 if you do go the new solenoid route it couldn’t hurt to get the 4 point one just to be sure of your ground.

And on that point, maybe clean up those 2 attachment screws on the solenoid you’re now using to maybe get a better ground.

 

[John McVicker]

Sorry @Nolacajun75 can’t help you with the transistor thing with the back of your gauge.

The wiring to your Volt Meter could cause a no start issue, but yours looks decent and it’s unlikely to be intermittent anyway.

 

[Nolacajun75]

@Nolacajun75 if you do go the new solenoid route it couldn’t hurt to get the 4 point one just to be sure of your ground.

And on that point, maybe clean up those 2 attachment screws on the solenoid you’re now using to maybe get a better ground.

Understood. And yes I just tried that. I ran a wire directly from the housing of the solenoid on the firewall to ground and it didn't help at all.

 

[Nolacajun75]

Roger that you.

 

[Nolacajun75]

If I wanted to completely rewire the starting system at the plug, I would cut all the wires then run all new wires. which of the four wires go to? Here are the wires I plan on cutting and rerouting but don't think I really need to use all four of them

 

[Nolacajun75]

I agree with removing the solenoid you’ve got there as well as all of the wiring from the key ignition to the starter.

I once had the exact some issues you have. My fix was simple, easy to do & solved the problem long term. Never surfaced again…never. This was on my FJ 62…but the principal is the same. No more click, click, click.

Go to auto parts store & buy a $15 four or five pin RELAY. You only use 4 pins but either a 4 or 5 pin will work. You will make 4 wire connections.

1) one from the ignition wire where you put in the key to start
2) one to a good ground
3) one directly to your battery positive
4) one directly to the starter solenoid

That’s it. I’m pretty sure I’ve described it correctly…it’s been 9 years now. If you go this way, do some google searches. It’s a very simple fix…you will be getting power directly from the battery to the solenoid and with fresh wires. Here’s a couple of pic.

View attachment 3663352

View attachment 3663353

to completely rewire the starting system at the plug, I would cut all the wires then run all new wires. which of the four wires go to what is what I'm not sure of? Here are the wires I plan on cutting and rerouting but don't think I really need to use all four of them.

And are you telling me that you on use the ignition switch to power the relay which then Powers the solenoid of the starter which then creates start at the turn. Is that correct?

 

[mattressking]

Did you ever actually perform the continuity check from chassis ignition switch plug to the original wiring to the starter? I see a lot of spinning but no real quality inspection/testing....just guessing.

You just need to verify if the starter feed wire has continuity from the steering column plug to the starter. All the other junk that has been added is a complexity and unnecessary....the unfortunate part is that South American trucks tend to have questionable modifications, so you need to do continuity checks to verify the actual condition of wiring.

Test continuity from plug to the starter solenoid wire, it is a single wire with single spade and/or locking terminal housing. If it has good continuity, give that wire 12v at the steering column, if starter spins, great.

Until you verify, it's a bunch of folks throwing ideas that may not be necessary.

 

[45Dougal]

These terminals are often corroded and is my guess that this is the cause of your problem.
Check all of these..

 

[John McVicker]

@Nolacajun75 read @mattressking post #27. The wire he is suggesting you verify continuity is all important. It may/may not be your issue…but IT IS THE EXACT PLACE TO START. If no continuity on this wire it will NEVER start by just using the key.

 

[Nolacajun75]

Did you ever actually perform the continuity check from chassis ignition switch plug to the original wiring to the starter? I see a lot of spinning but no real quality inspection/testing....just guessing.

You just need to verify if the starter feed wire has continuity from the steering column plug to the starter. All the other junk that has been added is a complexity and unnecessary....the unfortunate part is that South American trucks tend to have questionable modifications, so you need to do continuity checks to verify the actual condition of wiring.

Test continuity from plug to the starter solenoid wire, it is a single wire with single spade and/or locking terminal housing. If it has good continuity, give that wire 12v at the steering column, if starter spins, great.

Until you verify, it's a bunch of folks throwing ideas that may not be necessary.

Yep, pretty much found everything. The black wire with red stripe on the ignition switch going to the plug wiring to the truck is a blue and also a red wire. The red wire goes to the positive on the ignition coil in the blue wire goes to a wire and a plug that goes above the transmission. I have no idea why or what that is.
The blue wire with red stripe on the ignition switch goes to the plug. Out of the plug is a red wire and I have no idea where that one goes. Can't find it anywhere.
Black wire with white stripe on the ignition switch goes into the plug and out of the plug is a blue wire which goes to the Exciter on the solenoid on the firewall that was added.
The black wire with yellow stripe on the ignition goes into the plug and comes out of the plug a black wire which has continuity to chassis ground and when I move the red wire going to the alternator. For some reason it has continuity with the red wire on the alternator as well. Not sure if that's right but seems kind of weird.

Can I just remove the ignition switch from the plug, leave it unplugged, then go directly from the ignition switch connector. Make my own connections and then run the am wire direct to the positive on the battery via a fusible link. The St wire direct to the solenoid on the starter. The IG wire to the positive on the coil and the ACC to a switched positive fuse. Would that all work to fix this problem? It seems like it would, but not sure. Feel like I'm tasting my tail here going in circles.

I did order a new fuel gauge as well instead of a voltage regulator back in.

 

[Nolacajun75]

These terminals are often corroded and is my guess that this is the cause of your problem.
Check all of these..

View attachment 3663769

It looks okay. Doesn't look corroded but I'm going to cut all the wires at the plug and make my own plug to go into the new ignition switch to see if that solves the problem. I really hope it does. That would be cool and if it doesn't I know the connection is good.

 

[John McVicker]

I like your idea of cutting those wires you have posted in post 31. And if you continue the march in this manner, I still say buy the $15 relay as suggested in my post 13. Once you wire this using the relay…and as long as you have continuity, there is no reason it won’t turn over.

What this does for you is basically going from the battery directly to the starter solenoid but using the key switch. In your post #1 you said going from the battery to the starter worked for you. This does the same thing but using the key switch.

It will cost you $15 & some wire to try.

 

[45Dougal]

You don't need to cut anything.
Just separate the green connector and jump across the contacts with 2 inches of speaker wire between the 12V pin, and each other pin in turn. One of them is "acc", one is "on", and one makes the engine spin.

This isolates the problem to the ignition switch.

You've seen enough movies to know how to hot wire a car.

Nobody here can replace you studying the wiring diagram.

 

[charliemeyer007]

With old wiring, corrosion can crawl under the insulation at the connector the degrading electrical connection. You should clean both connectors in the plugs and carefully inspect the crimp area on the wire. Lube the connectors with dielectric grease.

A 30 cal bore brush works good on the ears of the fuse holder in the fuse block. Disconnect the battery ground before working on the connectors. Picks, needle files, some small pieces of crocus cloth will help cleaning the inside mating surface of connectors - good lighting and a magnifying glass is a real plus.

 

[Nolacajun75]

I like your idea of cutting those wires you have posted in post 31. And if you continue the march in this manner, I still say buy the $15 relay as suggested in my post 13. Once you wire this using the relay…and as long as you have continuity, there is no reason it won’t turn over.

What this does for you is basically going from the battery directly to the starter solenoid but using the key switch. In your post #1 you said going from the battery to the starter worked for you. This does the same thing but using the key switch.

It will cost you $15 & some wire to try.

I cut the wires and try it tonight. I'll get back to you in post when I after I try it and see if it works. Hoping for the best. That'll be great if it's just a little corrosion causing the problem.

 

[Nolacajun75]

You don't need to cut anything.
Just separate the green connector and jump across the contacts with 2 inches of speaker wire between the 12V pin, and each other pin in turn. One of them is "acc", one is "on", and one makes the engine spin.

This isolates the problem to the ignition switch.

You've seen enough movies to know how to hot wire a car.

Nobody here can replace you studying the wiring diagram.

So just to summarize and make sure I'm talking about this correctly. You want me to unplug the ignition switch from the vehicle? Leave it unplugged. Don't cut any wires and find the one pin on the vehicle side of the plug that has 12 volts on it. Then try to jump that 12-volt pen to the other three pins to see which one will turn it over, correct?

Don't think that will work being that I have The inline starter relay on my firewall the way it's wired but I will try that first. Just want to make sure I know what you're talking about when you say the 12 volt pin to others.

 

[45Dougal]

Exactly that

 

[Nolacajun75]

Exactly that

Okay Roger that. Thank you sir. I'm going to do this right now and I'll get back to you

 

[Nolacajun75]

Okay Roger that. Thank you sir. I'm going to do this right now and I'll get back to you

Okay I finally figured out the problem. This is ridiculous. I know I took my old ignition switch and my new ignition switch out and I measured the contact points when you go to start. They both work fine. I did jump the black yellow wire to the black white wire with both connected and turned over fine. First jumped the plug bottom two wires and it started fine. I when I took the ignition switch out of the steering column I think the problem was the switch was engaging in the wrong spot or not engaging properly at all. That's the only thing I can come up with because I put it all back together and now it works fine. Wish I would have found a problem so I can fix something but I guess it's good to go. I am going to run new wires with futible links that I bought, so they're in place for safety though, and I'm going to keep that relay solenoid intact since it's working great now. I really appreciate it everyone's help. Thank you so much

On a side note regarding the fuel gauge, I ordered a new fuel gauge from Toyota. Do I just stick it right in and it's good to go or do I need to use those wires from the voltage regulator that was mounted to the back. Build the big round main plug in the back of the gauge cluster power the fuel gauge and then I just run the one wire from the sender. Is that correct

 

[45Dougal]

Glad to hear that you've fixed it.
If you haven't changed anything as such, then the problem was probably corrosion where the connector mates - follow Charlie's advice to avoid it returning.
If you don't have the round connector then I'm sure you can buy one from Matt.
Otherwise it will be a real hack job soldering onto those brass pins.

Remove those bodged wires to the broken regulator - the PCB should do everything you need one you have s new fuel gauge. Clean the pcb with a stiff paint brush and some alcohol first.

And please remove that speaker wire from the battery before you burn the whole thing to the ground.
It should be connected to the ignition "on" pin on that green connector (I think).