80 Series Speaker Wiring (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 30, 2012
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Danvers, MA
Gents,

Replacing every speaker in my '96 FZJ80. Went with the Whole Hog mounting bracket for a 10" sub and amp in the stock sub location (new Pioneer shallow mount 10" sub and Kicker amp from the last 80 I had). The setup is currently wired thusly:

New header is wired to be used with the stock amp (I think? Just took it out of the last 80 I had, and it worked with the completely stock speaker setup), however, I have RCA cables running to the new Kicker amp as well, which is wired only to the sub. The speakers are new Pioneer 6.5" 2-ways in both front and rear doors, and Pioneer 3.5" that I modded to fit both the rear cargo area mounts as well as dash panel mounts. All the wiring is stock. I have not tested the setup yet, as I am just finishing connecting all the speakers.

Before I fire it up, what should I be aware of? Read somewhere that if any of the speakers are disconnected, the whole thing will not work with the factory amp. Does this mean that having disconnected the factory sub and wired its replacement directly to the new header via Kicker amp will cause the entire system to fail? The last 80 this amp was in was wired direct to this same header, which was wired into the truck the same way as it is in this one. I am thinking, in theory, this setup should be no different than the last and should work perfectly.

Another thing: for the stock 3.25" speakers that come in the cargo area and dash panels, which speaker wires are positive and which are negative? Talking about the blue and white wires soldered to the speaker itself. As a rule of thumb, I would say blue is positive and white is negative, but I suppose you can't be too sure.
 
In case anyone still has a pair of cents to add to this, here's an update:

I connected everything. All the speakers work great. However, the sub is not working. The amp lights up, indicating it is receiving power, and I verified that it is receiving a signal from the header. I checked the wiring to the sub, and it is correct. Either something is wrong inside the amp, the sub is faulty (I don't believe this to be the case, as it is brand new and I didn't fry it since I had the bass turned all the way down and slowly turned it up to try and verify whether it was working), or I just need to correct the settings on the amp. I tried both low and high input, tried the various settings for auto-turn-on, and fiddled with the knobs (cut-on hertz, bass boost level, and gain) to no avail. Any ideas? One thing: this amp may or may not have sat out in the rain for a night... I know, I know. It was after I wrecked my old tank and couldn't get back to it in time to get everything out of it before it got rained on. The fact that everything lights up and seems to be spinning up fine tells me it's still a working unit. Please halp.
 
Well if you're using and aftermarket head unit wired into the 2 grey connectors with a scosche like harness then you can (and I would recommend) remove/disconnect the stock amp. it's located behind the passenger dash speaker. Unplug it via the glove box. I had issues with the amp/antenna signal wire blowing the dome fuse and taking the amp out solved those issues. Your speakers are now being powered by the head unit (assuming it's aftermarket of course. Pioneer, Alpine, Sony, etc.). Your sub not working sounds like an amp problem. If you have power going in from the battery, the amp kick on (blue I think) wire is sending the signal, and no sound then the amp may be fried. Also would be wise to make sure the RCA cables are plugged in correctly. I have three sets of RCA's on mine, Front Rear and Sub. Pics of the unit and wiring would help a lot.
 
I just did my front door speakers last weekend. Blue is possitive
 

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