ARCHIVE 80 Series Lock Box- poll and questions

[NLXTACY]

I'm a little worried about the space taken up by the locking hardware inside the box but I'm hoping I can work around it for my application?

The locking hardware will drop about 1 1/8"

I'd prefer the lower box for the stealth benefit("Nothing to see here, folks, just move along...") this seems like a brilliant idea. Put some junk in the console on top of the concealment mat and everything is completely hidden. I don't lock up my truck much and don't leave anything valuable in either the glove compartment or console. Now, if you start opening up panels in the back there's where all the tools and other good stuff is, but most crime around here is just kids screwing around or junkies looking for a quick score. They're not going to spend a lot of time or do much work looking. I've lost some CD's out of the console and the change out of the ashtray to thieves over the last 25 years but that's about it. I recently changed jobs and now work in a place that's a whole lot less gun-friendly than my last gig, so I'm looking for a lock box to secure and conceal a pistol since I can't bring it along with me any more. I'm really hoping this box is it.

This has always been my thinking.

Aaand Joey? There is no commercially available snubnose revolver made in .40, did you mean a semi-automatic pistol or was it a different caliber maybe? I'm not trying to be a terminology Nazi I'm just curious, since I'm following this closely and it seems like the box depth would preclude some of the larger caliber revolver cylinders from fitting. S&W did make a few .40 revolvers in the past but they were all pretty large guns on their L-frame so I was wondering. Some of the 5 shot .44 and possibly .45 revolver cylinders should fit but I don't believe any of the 6-shot large caliber ones would by the time the padding and all was added in. Tredwards pics above don't take either that or the space needed for the swing of the locking tab into account so I don't believe either his Sig or Ruger will fit but the Seecamp and Walther should. Looks like most subcompacts and snubnose revolvers should fit just fine. Compact autos will be tight, some will and some won't by the look of things, and full size pistols will be pretty much out. That works for me.

I wasn't permitted to take pictures inside the shop. I took notes on everything and what I had written down is what the guy was spouting out. I very easily could have misheard or I just simply noted the wrong info. It WAS most definitely a snub nosed revolver and I really could have sworn it was a .40 but could be wrong.

There's also the folded lip on the lock side that we're not seeing here yet and that will also have an effect on fitment.

Number one issue for fitment is the hammer guard.

Also, which end is the lock on? I'm assuming the front end when it's mounted?

Correct. The lid opens the same way the console lid opens.

Will the key in the lock hit the console cover and how much will that restrict line of sight and access?

There is a 1" ~ish lip on the the lid/hinge side that allows for the keys to remain in the tumbler and keep the lid vertical.

The spring hinges should keep things from flopping closed if you can't get a 'past-90 degree' lid opening and that is a great touch. It's obviously not a fast-draw counter-carjacking arrangement but it should be very low profile and sneakily stealthy. I'm really liking the concept and can't wait to try it out!

I have my concerns about the spring hinge not being strong enough. I will know in a little bit. I have a feeling I should have went with my gut instead of their spec.

You also need a cooler name like the 'console ninja 9000' or some such, y'know, for reasons involving the marketplace....

I considered it, but ugh. Most sound gheeeeeeeeyyyy.

EDIT: Huh! Apparently there are a few .40 revolvers out there, Chiappa has made some and Charter Arms is supposed to have a .40 model as well. My apologies! Geez, you get away from the culture for a couple years and look what happens when you're not paying attention...

Or I could be right. This could go either way

 

[tractorpole]

Agreed. It sounds like you may need to work up a No. 6 on the die maker.

^^^LOL!! I love that movie^^^

 

[NLXTACY]

Doesn't the die maker owe you a die made to the proper dimensions? Seems like making it to some other unknown dimension wasn't delivering on an agreement.

Keep at it, you'll get it and when you are done, we'll all get a nice lockbox. Thanks for the attention to detail!

Technically yes but I may have a work around. I will be seeing it tonight.

 

[NLXTACY]

Plus, I'm no expert but it looks to me from the samples like the press is the problem more than the die. Maybe if the operation were sped up and the die hit harder the metal would take the shape without cracking or deforming the plate? Just wondering...

Yeah we went thru about a dozen lids experimenting with grease, different pressures, different timing. Still not a lot of love.

 

[artech]

How about if you drilled an undersized hole first to allow for some material stretch or give? The die operation would probably move the hole off location and distort it and it'd have to be redone, possibly even on a mill, but that'd still be cheaper than making a separate piece and welding it on.

I'm coming from a background where we were machining aluminum forgings, and while I don't know all the precise ins and outs of the forging process I do know that too slow a slow die speed makes for a $hitty forging. Those forging dies need to really hit fast-WHAM-and done. Slow machine speeds produce wrinkles and poor die fills, exclusions, warpage, uneven internal stresses, issues like that. Seems similar to what you have going on there, and that's perhaps part of the problem?

Hope this helps.

 

[NLXTACY]

How about if you drilled an undersized hole first to allow for some material stretch? The die operation would probably move the hole off location and it'd have to be redone, possibly even on a mill, but that'd still be cheaper than making a separate piece.

Yeah we tried that as well. It's ok. We have a work around. Pics incoming

 

[artech]

I suppose you could just leave the lid flat and make a thicker concealment pad with a recess for the lock?

 

[NLXTACY]

I suppose you could just leave the lid flat and make a thicker concealment pad with a recess for the lock?

Bingo~ish

The new drop boxes are lasered and just need to be all bent. I'm going to spot weld in place BUT I have a feeling that a drift and a large hammer is all that's needed to get past the spot weld so I may wind up opting for stitch welding. I'll decide after testing in the morning.

 

[NLXTACY]

But the boxes themselves are all done and fitment tested using the center console I got. Good to go there. All the lids are done and cut and ready to be welded. The hinge bracket got a short double chamfer that was needed to keep from binding on the FEM. Tomorrow may be the day I finally get everything to take home. Ugh, what a process!!!

Btw, anyone else need a LockBox? I may have a few extras

Oh and I get a few of the taller Scout LockBox tomorrow as well. I won't have too many of those because I need to pay for the first batch...well, first

 

[artech]

Getting closer!

 

[NLXTACY]

Getting closer!

Its driving me craaaaaazy!!!

 

[jtwopark]

joey get some sleep man! you're gonna have a seizure or heart attack if you are getting by on a few hours of sleep a night.

we old people need at least 7-8 solid hours of sleep. If not it will affect your d@!% and health!

you spend too much time taking pictures man. sometimes a pencil sketch does more for a project than a thousand photographs. The sketch shows emotion and devotion. A photo only relays information.

your thread is begging others to make exactly what you are making down to the "T."

too much info on the processes.

It's a secret. shhhhh......someone or somebody out there might copy your sh!t!!

 

[NLXTACY]

Yeah I thought about that. If someone wants to rip this off...good fxxxing luck

In all honesty I am documenting every step because I took people's money as part of the GroupBuy and taking orders on the site. I owe people transparency and I want to make sure everyone is part of the entire process, warts and all. Not all of my products will be like this but I knew this was going to cost me a lot of time and money and I wanted to make sure I wasn't left holding my dick once these started getting shipped. Keeping people in the loop helps that.

 

[jtwopark]

I guess, but, okay, I guess you are right!

 

[vbcrush]

Joey,
Here is what I need mine for. Thought I would post for anyone else carrying the same. Smith and Wesson M&P40. L= 7 9/16", H 5 1/8". D 1 1/2"

 

[NLXTACY]

Joey,
Here is what I need mine for. Thought I would post for anyone else carrying the same. Smith and Wesson M&P40. L= 7 9/16", H 5 1/8". D 1 1/2"View attachment 1138616

This would need the taller Scout LockBox.

 

[Tredwards]

What are the dimensions of the scout

 

[NLXTACY]

What are the dimensions of the scout

I won't have full dimensions til later today but basically everything should be similar except 5" tall. The sides all slope so the bottom dimensions are narrower than the top dimensions.

 

[FZJ80 in KC]

Here's what I need mine for...Man, I hope it all fits!!!!

 

[NLXTACY]

That wallet looks deceiving. The black color hides its true dimension. It could be hiding a stripper role.