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@Rainman is local-ish, I think. No doubt could make one.
If the line isn't bent. If the line is in two pieces but can be held together in the right shape... I can make a new one for you. I just need to be able to see what the right pattern is. PM me and we can give to a try.
Some recommend going back with a new lower oil pan. If the sealing surface is bent even the slightest bit, they're VERY hard to reseal. Rob recommends HondaBond over FIPG for either old or new pans. Also, if I remember correctly, the power steering pump gear isn't keyed, so the balancer has to be installed with at least 300 lb/ft of torque in order to press the PS pump gear tightly enough to make it work. As for removal of the crank bolt, you can usually get that bolt off by putting a ratchet on it with a long handle, then putting the end of the handle under the frame (I THINK under the passenger side - someone else will have to verify) then bumping the starter. Plenty of info on 'MUD about this method of removal.Got the oil pan out, without much hassle. Now to cross my fingers and pray that the new fipg seals up completely.
View attachment 1980027
Onto the front main seal. Someone has had the harmonic balancer off at some point to replace the oil pump gasket. The original screws have been replaced with Allen head screws.
I have a small front main leak that I need to address. I cut a tool on the plasma table to hold the pulley in place.
View attachment 1980034
Whoever had this balancer off greatly over torque the bolt I believe. I assume they just ran it on with a big impact until it stopped. I broke a 1/2” breaker bar and it maxed out my 350ft/lb torque wrench. Got a buddy bringing me a 10ft 1” breaker bar tomorrow to try.
Actually, the oil pump isn’t keyed. Failure to properly torque the harmonic balancer will lead to an untimely death of the 1FZSome recommend going back with a new lower oil pan. If the sealing surface is bent even the slightest bit, they're VERY hard to reseal. Rob recommends HondaBond over FIPG for either old or new pans. Also, if I remember correctly, the power steering pump gear isn't keyed, so the balancer has to be installed with at least 300 lb/ft of torque in order to press the PS pump gear tightly enough to make it work. As for removal of the crank bolt, you can usually get that bolt off by putting a ratchet on it with a long handle, then putting the end of the handle under the frame (I THINK under the passenger side - someone else will have to verify) then bumping the starter. Plenty of info on 'MUD about this method of removal.
Hope all goes well.......
Oh, that's right. Thanks for the clarificationActually, the oil pump isn’t keyed. Failure to properly torque the harmonic balancer will lead to an untimely death of the 1FZ
Anyone have a set of stock 80 series rear upper control arms laying around? My fancy spherical joint on my 4+ arms are blown out on mine and surprise-surprise can’t find a replacement for that strange thing. Was going to just press factory bushings in it but the diameter is smaller than factory. Will be at the Razorback Ramble and can pick up then. For the meantime I’m running one 4+ and one OEM with questionable bushings.
Another 80 Series gets enough power
Absolutely beautiful! When will the 1FZ-to-2UZ upgrade be available?
I’d take a LS3 over a 2uz any day.