Correction, VERY local to you.
80 Series General Tech and Classifieds
- Thread starter MEMCruiser
- Start date
Yep, I think he is less than an hour from me, and was thinking I might rob the one off the other 80 and see if he could use it to make me a couple extras. Need to talk with him about lines for the disc brake swap on the 55 anyway.
If the line isn't bent. If the line is in two pieces but can be held together in the right shape... I can make a new one for you. I just need to be able to see what the right pattern is. PM me and we can give to a try.
I will PM you. I also have a '69 and a '71 FJ55 that I could get you some info on for your patterns if you need. The 69, I could drive over one day and let you have a look at it, and could take pictures and measurements of the '71 if you need.
JTU
SILVER Star
I got very very close to selling my 80 a few months ago, But I just couldn’t trade the LC that got me into the lifestyle it for a few $$ bills. It has been sitting in the corner of my shop needing semi-major repairs. This weekend I made the decision to blow the dust off of it and (finally) start getting it back into drivable condition. I’ve have all the parts (i think) to compete all the projects but I’ve been spending all my free vehicle time on my 60 the past year though.
The first job on the chopping block is engine mounts and upper oil pan re-seal.
Driver side mount:
Passenger side mount:
I had the old mounts out of the vehicle in under an hour. The new mounts on the other hand took about 2.5 hours of trying to jack, squeeze and pry them into place. Overall a pretty easy job, but not one I want to tackle again solo.
Got go on a business trip for a few days now, but I have everything in place (or out of the way) to pull the oil pans and re-seal them.
The first job on the chopping block is engine mounts and upper oil pan re-seal.
Driver side mount:
Passenger side mount:
I had the old mounts out of the vehicle in under an hour. The new mounts on the other hand took about 2.5 hours of trying to jack, squeeze and pry them into place. Overall a pretty easy job, but not one I want to tackle again solo.
Got go on a business trip for a few days now, but I have everything in place (or out of the way) to pull the oil pans and re-seal them.
JTU
SILVER Star
Got the oil pan out, without much hassle. Now to cross my fingers and pray that the new fipg seals up completely.
Onto the front main seal. Someone has had the harmonic balancer off at some point to replace the oil pump gasket. The original screws have been replaced with Allen head screws.
I have a small front main leak that I need to address. I cut a tool on the plasma table to hold the pulley in place.
Whoever had this balancer off greatly over torque the bolt I believe. I assume they just ran it on with a big impact until it stopped. I broke a 1/2” breaker bar and it maxed out my 350ft/lb torque wrench. Got a buddy bringing me a 10ft 1” breaker bar tomorrow to try.
Onto the front main seal. Someone has had the harmonic balancer off at some point to replace the oil pump gasket. The original screws have been replaced with Allen head screws.
I have a small front main leak that I need to address. I cut a tool on the plasma table to hold the pulley in place.
Whoever had this balancer off greatly over torque the bolt I believe. I assume they just ran it on with a big impact until it stopped. I broke a 1/2” breaker bar and it maxed out my 350ft/lb torque wrench. Got a buddy bringing me a 10ft 1” breaker bar tomorrow to try.
Some recommend going back with a new lower oil pan. If the sealing surface is bent even the slightest bit, they're VERY hard to reseal. Rob recommends HondaBond over FIPG for either old or new pans. Also, if I remember correctly, the power steering pump gear isn't keyed, so the balancer has to be installed with at least 300 lb/ft of torque in order to press the PS pump gear tightly enough to make it work. As for removal of the crank bolt, you can usually get that bolt off by putting a ratchet on it with a long handle, then putting the end of the handle under the frame (I THINK under the passenger side - someone else will have to verify) then bumping the starter. Plenty of info on 'MUD about this method of removal.
Hope all goes well.......
JTU
SILVER Star
The lower oil pan was so covered in oil I couldn’t even see the aluminum so I took it to a buddy who had a steam pressure washer.
Valve cover got steam cleaned and painted:
New spark plug gaskets were installed also.
Valve cover got steam cleaned and painted:
New spark plug gaskets were installed also.
Oh, that's right. Thanks for the clarification
JTU
SILVER Star
Oil pan back on with fresh fipg
Solid work JTU. My least favorite job ever on a 1FZ. I'd rather do a HG job.
Anyone have a set of stock 80 series rear upper control arms laying around? My fancy spherical joint on my 4+ arms are blown out on mine and surprise-surprise can’t find a replacement for that strange thing. Was going to just press factory bushings in it but the diameter is smaller than factory. Will be at the Razorback Ramble and can pick up then. For the meantime I’m running one 4+ and one OEM with questionable bushings.
No longer needed. Found my originals tucked away in vintage looking OME long travel shock boxes.
Another 80 Series gets enough power 
early91fj80
SILVER Star
My '97 has recently experienced a massive miss in the motor which caused the check engine light to flash and throw a P0304 and P0300 code. While all this was going on, the entire truck and dashboard shook like I was riding on a flat. The condition cured itself and I cleared the codes. The injectors have been cleaned. Where would I start to investigate the cause of this miss?
Absolutely beautiful! When will the 1FZ-to-2UZ upgrade be available?Another 80 Series gets enough power
JTU
SILVER Star
I’d take a LS3 over a 2uz any day.
JTU
SILVER Star
The Wits end turbo pretty much nullifies any desire to swap in a 2uz.