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I can’t remember what you originally posted, but was this one of the GM performance ‘connect and cruise’ packages? Just wondering if there were any differences adapting the 4L65 or 4L70 (vs 4L60) to the cruiser t-cases.
Onur, you are so very sharp!!!!!! Cam and I were educated on the fact that we got the wrong part, standard size pistons as you noted with 0.5 over rings so back to the parts ordering gig. It’s a shame you retired all that knowledge that CDan and all your other life experiences have burned into that brain. We are hearing you now on the 1mm over size because it too is half price now.Why did you not overbore this 1.00mm over? And instead went with the regular sized option?
All that money and work and it’s still a stock displacement block.
I wanted to give an update to my 80's problem and thank @offr0adlim0 for his help. After troubleshooting using your advice, I found injector #4 dead. I replaced the injector over the weekend and it is doing great again.P0300 is just a code to let you know the vehicle is missing. It’s a random multiple missfire is present code. The P0304 is cylinder number 4 missfire, which is where you start. Check the plug, plug wire, cap, rotor. If you don’t see anything check the cylinder 4 injector connector. If nothing obvious at this point check to make sure the harness isn’t melted on the EGR tube. While the spark plug is out you can do a compression test but I doubt your problem is there. Anytime the check engine flashes, it essentially means engine is currently missing and the unburned fuel is collecting in the catalytic converter which could cause damage and is causing terrible tailpipe emissions.
Our very own Cottonland Tech Genius!!! We all owe Lim0 a big round of thanks.I wanted to give an update to my 80's problem and thank @offr0adlim0 for his help. After troubleshooting using your advice, I found injector #4 dead. I replaced the injector over the weekend and it is doing great again.
I would think replacement of the O-Rings would take care of it (that, and change out your coolant to Toyota red.....I’ve developed a coolant leak on the pipe that goes from the block to the thermostat. That’s just a slip on fitting right? What is the best way to seal that?
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Use a pressure tester to see exactly where your leak is. That area there can be multiple places where coolant can leak. Where the pipe bolts to the cylinder head is an o-ring and bottom side is 2 o-rings the rest are metal gaskets.I’ve developed a coolant leak on the pipe that goes from the block to the thermostat. That’s just a slip on fitting right? What is the best way to seal that?
View attachment 2029973
View attachment 2029974
Use a pressure tester to see exactly where your leak is. That area there can be multiple places where coolant can leak. Where the pipe bolts to the cylinder head is an o-ring and bottom side is 2 o-rings the rest are metal gaskets.
Ordered all the Orings and metal gaskets that I could be. What is the best way to pressurize the system?
What is the best way to pressurize the system?
Ordered all the Orings and metal gaskets that I could be. What is the best way to pressurize the system?
TRIPLELOCKEDYO!!!!!
I picked up this pretty much stock 80 (1996 locked) minus some OME springs as a complete impulse buy. I was going to sell my built LX (which I did) and keep a stock locked 80 in the heard. However, I've decided I am getting out of 80s all together and diving into my 60 and 55 in a big way. So, this one needs to find a new home. Rust fee (minus the little spot below back glass it was patched before and after pics) , southern truck, clean car fax, 251k. Solid build able truck or rip the springs out throw some stock spring back in it and roll with it bone stock. Chris and Rob checked it out for a local buyer already, he decided he now wants a 100 and not an 80. $8500 firm takes it home and that will include an OME steering stabilizers and the Slee 2nd batter tray, windshield relocate bracket etc. The longer it sits the more work I will do to it and the price will go up. Would love to see it stay local. Would also consider trader or partial trade on 60/62, 100, 40/45, or a 1st gen Tundra with v8.
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I picked up this pretty much stock 80 (1996 locked) minus some OME springs as a complete impulse buy. I was going to sell my built LX (which I did) and keep a stock locked 80 in the heard. However, I've decided I am getting out of 80s all together and diving into my 60 and 55 in a big way. So, this one needs to find a new home. Rust fee (minus the little spot below back glass it was patched before and after pics) , southern truck, clean car fax, 251k. Solid build able truck or rip the springs out throw some stock spring back in it and roll with it bone stock. Chris and Rob checked it out for a local buyer already, he decided he now wants a 100 and not an 80. $8500 firm takes it home and that will include an OME steering stabilizers and the Slee 2nd batter tray, windshield relocate bracket etc. The longer it sits the more work I will do to it and the price will go up. Would love to see it stay local. Would also consider trader or partial trade on 60/62, 100, 40/45, or a 1st gen Tundra with v8.
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