jynx
Turd Herder
Ordered a Fragola -3 braided line for the front of the 80 this week. This is next to an Ironman extended line.
80 Series General Tech and Classifieds
- Thread starter MEMCruiser
- Start date
- Watchers 60
Anybody sitting on any rebuildable-core quality 1FZs? Or even just a complete block or head? Can be any year.
Seller says it has about 220k on it, he’s swapping it for a diesel.
:fistbump:
Anybody need a ‘96 transmission?
I’d be interested, no telling when I’d be able to get up your way @FJ60Cam
Chasing a PO758 code. Shift solenoid #2 fault on a 95 fzj with a343. Anyone with any experience with this one? Any input is appreciated.
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EDIT::::: turned out to be a bad connection in park neutral position swithc in USPS forward portion of the trans. Removed and recleaned and shifting slow and flared as usual again.
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Reading fsm AT-73 shows open or short in circuit (ecm or harness),ecm fail, or failed shift solenoid.
Limited functionality of current mud search shows VSS signal error and connector in harness above starter as possible causes as well.
Pulled each plug on trans and vss, cleaned with electronics cleaner and reinstalled with dialectic. Tcase VSS tested good. No change. ecm pins and ecm to trans plug pass test with 0 ohm readings. Trying to save solenoid valve for last because:
A) this occured immediately after applying engine degreaser to front axle and oil/trans pans so seems incredibly coincidental. Could the spray kill a sensor or connection?
B) IPOR skid has to come off and the hex bolt heads are no longer hex shaped :/
removing shift solenoid plug and shifting manually through gears should confirm selenoid valve fail. This info came from a 100 series thread but it mostly passed this test if you took it up to 40mph in first. Otherwise 2nd felt like OD
Only other random info:
i noticed is O2 harness dropped on front shaft and chaffed one of the blue shielded wires. And also this fault occured with front shaft out center locked and moderate/aggressive accel from drive into traffic. Not so much a 2-3 shift fail but goes 1 to o/d. Dont think these would be related. Read a post about a ground strap trans to frame. Loss of ground here could cause trans performance problems. I cant find one and did lose cruise for one drive cycle after a knock sensor replacement last week.
Whew. Sorry for the long post.
-—_——————————————
EDIT::::: turned out to be a bad connection in park neutral position swithc in USPS forward portion of the trans. Removed and recleaned and shifting slow and flared as usual again.
—————————————————-/
Reading fsm AT-73 shows open or short in circuit (ecm or harness),ecm fail, or failed shift solenoid.
Limited functionality of current mud search shows VSS signal error and connector in harness above starter as possible causes as well.
Pulled each plug on trans and vss, cleaned with electronics cleaner and reinstalled with dialectic. Tcase VSS tested good. No change. ecm pins and ecm to trans plug pass test with 0 ohm readings. Trying to save solenoid valve for last because:
A) this occured immediately after applying engine degreaser to front axle and oil/trans pans so seems incredibly coincidental. Could the spray kill a sensor or connection?
B) IPOR skid has to come off and the hex bolt heads are no longer hex shaped :/
removing shift solenoid plug and shifting manually through gears should confirm selenoid valve fail. This info came from a 100 series thread but it mostly passed this test if you took it up to 40mph in first. Otherwise 2nd felt like OD
Only other random info:
i noticed is O2 harness dropped on front shaft and chaffed one of the blue shielded wires. And also this fault occured with front shaft out center locked and moderate/aggressive accel from drive into traffic. Not so much a 2-3 shift fail but goes 1 to o/d. Dont think these would be related. Read a post about a ground strap trans to frame. Loss of ground here could cause trans performance problems. I cant find one and did lose cruise for one drive cycle after a knock sensor replacement last week.
Whew. Sorry for the long post.
Last edited:
When an 80 is involved in an accident where the other vehicle, a brand new Suburban is totaled, you may find that the 80 needs parts you don’t usually have to replace. Like this 43110-60400. Which is a new front axle housing for a locked truck straight from Toyota. Notice how the axle shaft isn’t centered in the spindle on the passenger side. Housing is bent behind the bell.
jynx
Turd Herder
Out of curiosity, what does a 43110-60400 go for these days?
In the US market it lists for $1800
Would I or have I been driving it on the road like that for the past three years?
I’ve since bought another box that I’m sending off to be rebuilt with a 105 shaft. I think the splines on that one are straight - you’re welcome to the shaft from that box if you’re going in.
What was the final chapter of the steering box story? I haven't yet fulfilled my need, I'll need to buy one pretty soon.
jynx
Turd Herder
@offr0adlim0 what did the rest of the truck look like if it took a hit hard enough to bend the front axle housing that bad?
It will probably be a while. I still have a mini truck box out that I was waiting to see how the rebuild went before sending in the 80 box.
If you come across one in the meantime, grab it.
Just passenger fender and inner wheel. The 4x4Labs bumper only suffered some lost powdercoat
In need of a power steering pump for a 97 LX450. Anyone have a good one laying around or recommendations on where to get one?
Get a new one from Toyota. Never had any luck with a rebuilt or used pump.
What about new from Cardone (not remanufactured)? I can get one for $165. From Toyota it's $375
Never tried a new aftermarket but I know a new one from Toyota will last for many years to come.
wct49
POWERED BY AMEX
we have not had any luck w the Cardone.