80 Series Front brake upgrade

[BILT4ME]

Since we're chatting about brake upgrades, which rotors are better between DBA and Powerstop? Suggestion on semi-metallic pads or is there a better pad material?

I run PowerStop that are slotted and drilled. I am also 95% on road and little gravel / dirt as this is my DD of about 18K miles/year.

The problem with slotted and drilled are very small rocks and mud. Debris gets stuck in those holes and slots and degrade your brake performance from the offroad activities.

Factory rotors are NOT slotted and drilled and are only a little more expensive than PowerStop.

The biggest difference on my truck was a NEW LSPV and NEW Toyota rear calipers. Prior to that I was always having one rear hang up and eat pads on one side.

 

[jht3]

don't bother with slotted and drilled. that is just removing mass and introducing places for the rotor to crack. or as you said, places for mud and rocks to collect. solid and vented are just fine on a daily driver

larger diameter rotors and/or multi piston calipers can be a significant upgrade. along with a properly sized master cylinder, proportioning valve, etc.

 

[Hornd]

don't bother with slotted and drilled. that is just removing mass and introducing places for the rotor to crack. or as you said, places for mud and rocks to collect. solid and vented are just fine on a daily driver

larger diameter rotors and/or multi piston calipers can be a significant upgrade. along with a properly sized master cylinder, proportioning valve, etc.

Brakes Turn Motion (Kinetic) to Heat. The Rotor is a Heat Sink for the Pads. The more the Mass the Better.
If Slotted and Drilled were Better Toyota would have sent them Stock.
Also Slotted Rotors Cut Fresh Pad so the Pad Wear will be Atrocious and these Heavy Trucks already Eat Pads.
Not everything for the Track is Practical - Super Soft Tires Come to Mind.

 

[petegangies]

Brakes Turn Motion (Kinetic) to Heat. The Rotor is a Heat Sink for the Pads. The more the Mass the Better.
If Slotted and Drilled were Better Toyota would have sent them Stock.
Also Slotted Rotors Cut Fresh Pad so the Pad Wear will be Atrocious and these Heavy Trucks already Eat Pads.
Not everything for the Track is Practical - Super Soft Tires Come to Mind.

I have DBA slotted (not drilled) rotors on mine with Brembo pads and have not experienced any abnormal or accelerated pad wear. The combination is working well for me, which includes towing a boat and no electronic brakes.

 

[GCCFZJ]

I have DBA slotted (not drilled) rotors on mine with Brembo pads and have not experienced any abnormal or accelerated pad wear. The combination is working well for me, which includes towing a boat and no electronic brakes.

Ali,

I’ve been running DBA T3 rotors with Yellow Stuff pads for the last 3-4 years. They bite well and can stop my 8000# Cruiser when a hard stop is needed like rush hour traffic or similar. The yellow stuff pads perform well but they do give off a lot of brake dust and only last me about 15000 miles for a set of front pads. Booster and MC have been replaced, all soft lines replaced, lines flushed every 30k miles. I still have functioning ABS and use it, the LSPV is still on the truck with a manual adjuster.

I am not hard on brakes and downshift often. I have had a few times where I had brake fade on a steep pass or downhill (Sonora Pass in the Sierras). I think this is purely due to the weight of the truck and the size pads and rotors. It’s not a great feeling and because of this I’d like to look into sizing up both of those parts in a BBK of some sort.

It's interesting to me that you are running the DBA T3 and had brake fade. Most likely your pad compound material? I see a lot of people posting what pads, but what compounds do you prefer? Semi-metallic, ceramics etc? Anyone know the compound on OEM 80 and the "upgraded" 100 series pads?

 

[petegangies]

It's interesting to me that you are running the DBA T3 and had brake fade. Most likely your pad compound material? I see a lot of people positing what pads, but what compounds do you prefer? Semi-metallic, ceramics etc? Anyone know the compound on OEM 80 and the "upgraded" 100 series pads?

I suffered massively from brake fade with EBC Greenstuff, and even though Yellow stuff, which are meant to be better, I'd still be tempted to avoid the brand altogether. I don't know what it is about whatever materials they're using, but they just dont hold up to heat well and glaze. I've had experience with them in both the 4WD and my old track cars, went back and forward with the company here in Australia and eventually just said, sorry.. your pads don't even remotely live up to the hype you push.

Pad compound is partly preference, but the formulation matters more than people think. A lot of the “dusty” pads people complain about are actually the ones giving you better initial bite and pedal feel.

Ceramic pads for example, are horrible when cold and don't have great initial bite, but barely dust and are great once they're heated up and will last longer under sustained abuse before fading.

Of course, your brake fluid and the rest of your system are playing a factor here too. OEM brake pads are never a bad choice.. it's rare you'll find aftermarket parts that match the quality and performance of OEM. They'll do the job.

I'm happy with the Brembo pads, they're not excessively dusty and pedal feel and initial bite is great. Also havent experienced them fading on me, including through the hills with the boat. The only problem is, I can't tell you exactly which models I purchased as it was 10 years ago...and they're still going strong (albeit, the car doesnt do massive kms)

Just did a search on the brembo page and seems they have a few different options. When you click into each pads there's a description of the materials used and their recommended use.

Pads and Discs for TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 80 (_J8_) 4.5 4WD (FZJ80) - https://www.bremboparts.com/asiapacific/en/catalogue/toyota-land-cruiser-80-j8-4-5-4wd-fzj80/000049343-1

 

[discoverydave]

Good discussion. The LSPV thing can't be overstated on these trucks — when they start to fade they do it gradually enough that you half-convince yourself it's just the 35s. I had the same complaint on mine, borderline sketchy on a nasty descent in the Sierras, thought I needed a full BBK.

Pulled the LSPV first. The sensing spring was shot and the valve itself was barely cracking open at the right point. New OEM LSPV, fresh braided lines (I had two of the original rubber lines that were cracking at the chassis clips), and proper fluid flush with Motul RBF600. Night and day.

If you're going down steep grades in low gear with 35s and your engine braking still isn't holding you, the brakes shouldn't have to work that hard in the first place. But if you're doing actual trail descents and need to modulate — make sure the booster diaphragm is solid, those go soft with age and you lose pedal feel without realizing it.

The Ceika kit looks nice but I'd exhaust the OEM system rebuild first. Lot of money to spend if it's just a $80 LSPV doing the wrong thing.

 

[KTP]

I run a 97 LX 450 with 37" . I tried the EBC Green and fade was so bad i almost ran into the back of the rig at the bottom of the hill. Scared me so bad as it ended at a busy cross HWY. Had to Yank up on my E-Brake as had as i could and swerve around them. After i cleaned out my drawers and 10 minutes of driving the brakes were back. Swapped them out for Semi-metallics and haven't had a problem like that since. Now i also deleted my ABS and LPV and that too made a big difference for the better. I did add slotted front rotors to the front when i added the RCV axels. No Difference to me. I do plan on changing the MC and Booster at a later date. Wondering what that will do? Stopping is a GREAT thing! Thank you all for your Posts and links.

 

[LXDOC]

New pads require bedding in. May take approx 100-200 miles for some manufacturers pads.

 

[robnicko]

I run a 97 LX 450 with 37" . I tried the EBC Green and fade was so bad i almost ran into the back of the rig at the bottom of the hill. Scared me so bad as it ended at a busy cross HWY. Had to Yank up on my E-Brake as had as i could and swerve around them. After i cleaned out my drawers and 10 minutes of driving the brakes were back. Swapped them out for Semi-metallics and haven't had a problem like that since. Now i also deleted my ABS and LPV and that too made a big difference for the better. I did add slotted front rotors to the front when i added the RCV axels. No Difference to me. I do plan on changing the MC and Booster at a later date. Wondering what that will do? Stopping is a GREAT thing! Thank you all for your Posts and links.

View attachment 4122822

Nice pic!

Semi metallic are what originally came on these trucks. Alot of people are not realising that theyre buying Ceramic pads and if only driving round town they can be ok to a point. Theyre good for a clean rim perspective and smaller cars but thats about it I think.
I have had ceramic once and got a real fright after doing a river crossing driving along a track about 5 min later applied the brakes and next to nothing happened. Once they heated up were back again but compared to Semi-Met's they just dont cut it in my view.